BillFitzmaurice.info

I'm finally getting going on my TLAH and SLA ccurve build. All of the panels are cut, the TLAH boxes built, and the plywood is ripped for the TTLS - I just need to do some cross-cutting and of course cut the angles for the braces.

Here are the TLAH boxes getting started: At this point I plan to rear mount all of the drivers and finish the boxes in stain/polyurethane.

The first batch of drivers is in hand from Speaker Hardware.

I also plan to build the SLA surrounds from the plans.

My next big challenge is to cut a whole bunch of woofer holes.

Looking good, looking forward to seeing the finished results.

After discussions here about the best way to make the woofer holes, I tried:

• A holesaw
• Router, up-spiral, jasper jig,
• template and pattern bit

I decided that the jasper jig was the easiest, as I just need to drill a 1/8" pilot hole through the baffle (and into a backing board) and then use the jig.

First I tacked the curved SLA baffle to my work table with a few brads, nailing in the 1/2" wide strips that would be cut away: Then using the router, spiral bit and jasper jig, cut the woofer holes:
I used a Forstner bit for the tweeter holes - it makes a very clean cut. Here is the baffle with all 12 holes: Next I changed out the plunge base for the regular base, and mounted the 3/8" round-over bit and rounded off all of the holes: The final step was to make all of the angled cuts in the panel, leaving me with 8 pieces. Here is a dry fit of them standing up: A careful reading of the instructions reminded me that I now need to sand and finish these pieces before I glue them together. I also need to make the jigs that will allow me to make symmetric pilot holes for the mounting holes for the drivers. Tomorrow while the stain and polyurethane are drying, I may try to get the first couple TTLS panels assembled.

Put the finish on the inside of the top and bottom before assembling as well, masking off the glue line.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Tue Apr 24, 2018 8:53 pm Put the finish on the inside of the top and bottom before assembling as well, masking off the glue line.

Thank you - I see that in the plans.
I hope it will work to build the baffle out of 1/2" Baltic Birch rather than 3/4" solid wood. Otherwise I need to start over on the baffle.

My tlah baffles are made out of 1/2 birch plywood and didn't give me any trouble. Plywood doesn't split like solid wood might do. Just make sure u use screws that aren't too long and show through.
Mine are painted white the plys can be seen but i like that.

Greetz ketoet

I'm making a little more progress - I started on the TTLS.

Here are the first 3 panels installed: I also have panel 4 in. Now I need a driver before I can go an farther. Perhaps I'll order it today. I'm leaning toward the 10" Dayton.

I went down to work on the jigs for drilling the mounting holes for the SLA/TLA drivers today, and promptly dropped the router and broke my only 1/4" upspiral bit So that will have to wait. My current idea is to use the jasper jig set to 1/2" larger than the holes to produce wooden slugs that will fit exactly into the holes - and then use a bit of 1/8" masonite as a guide for the 4 pilot holes.

Only 2 1/2 years later, I am finally making progress on this build again! We are doing a major house remodel, and I want to set up our new den as a home theater (or at least have really good audio when watching TV)

One of the things that took forever on the curved SLA was the decision to rear-mount the drivers. I needed to build templates to accurately place the 4 mounting holes for the drivers. Here are teh jigs I built: After drilling mounting holes and mounting drivers, it is starting to take shape: The woofer template uses a wooden disk to center it, while the tweeter uses a bit of 1 1/2" drain pipe. I also went through several iterations before settling on 5/8" long screws.
Here is the finished speaker: I decided that for the TLAHs I would front mount the drivers. I also changed course and decided to use the Dayton driver instead of the Goldwood. It is lighter, and (in another thread) Bill recommended it. It has a built-in gasket on the back, but needs an annular ring for the gasket to sit in. I used the router and Jasper jig to rout out rings 4 1/16" in diameter and 1/16" deep: Next I routed holes 3 11/16" in diameter. I needed to clamp a piece of scrap inside the enclosure to hold the disks that were being removed and keep the router centered. Here are the first set of holes: The tweeters fit nicely in 1 15/16" holes made with a Forstner bit. Here are teh two enclosures drilled and stained, ready for poly:

Shoot, I just finished going through my Facebook feed, and now I was looking for the "like" button.
Looking good, so far. Keep it up.

I have finished my pair of TLAHs. Now if the contractor would just install the roof on my addition!

First I mounted the woofers - the annular ring fit pretty well, but could have been a 32nd deeper: Next I installed the wiring: Then I added batting. Ordered on Amazon, 2 yards x 48" was just about right for a pair: Then with two of them, and my eBay 16 channel amp, at last a test: They sound quite good, although there is clearly bass missing. I didn't try dragging one of my Titan39s up

My next question for the group - any suggestions on hardware for hanging them from the wall? I plan to put the TV on a wall mount and place these on either side.

Those look great Bill

billkatz wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 5:22 pm My next question for the group - any suggestions on hardware for hanging them from the wall?

A simple French Cleat should do just fine.

Yeah, French cleats are the way to go.

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 8:01 pm Those look great Bill

billkatz wrote: ↑Tue Sep 29, 2020 5:22 pm My next question for the group - any suggestions on hardware for hanging them from the wall?

A simple French Cleat should do just fine.

Thank you! That looks like an excellent idea. It might even work to hold the curved SLA center channel on the wall.

Cleats are wonderful. I've used 'em for hanging cabinets, light sconces, etc. Forms a tight seal to the wall. Best part is that all you have to level is the cleat on the wall - whatever you hang will be straight.