BillFitzmaurice.info

Well, I've always said you don't need anymore than a single 12 on any stage......but, since the guitar player in the band I run sound for was asking for a 2x10 - I figured what the hell, I'll build him one and me one too.

I'm really hoping that the angled baffles will let him hear better so he'll turn down on stage. Those of you that saw the music video where I was acting frustrated at the guitar volume ...... that wasn't acting. That was my normal expressions on a regular basis.

Anyway, he already had a couple of tens, so I ordered me a couple too. If you're gonna' make one, might as well make two, right?

This won't be a really detailed build thread as these are pretty simple once you get the baffles cut. Those are more of a challenge, but if you know how to build a simple jig for the table saw - it goes pretty quick.

Gotta' start with the parts....
Oh, I found something in HD that I thought I'd try. Maybe ya'll have seen 'em before, but I hadn't. We'll see if they work...

Glued up the case this morning......

Oh....and before someone asks (because I know there are a few of you thinking it)....yes, I did buy another set of plans from Bill for this build since it one of 'em isn't for me.

I'll have more later or tomorrow once the baffles are in and they start looking a little prettier.

Those caulk caps look like a really good idea.

I just recently started using the caulk caps and they work pretty well. The will tend to creep up a little, but it is usually due to the residual expansion that PL always seems to have for 10-20 minutes after you pull it out of the gun. You can push the cap back down a little bit and they seem to work like a charm after that...

Chris_Allen wrote:Those caulk caps look like a really good idea.

They seem to work.....although as mentioned above - it did work its way out under pressure, but I just shoved it back in.

Routing and sanding are done......just need to add the grill blocks and start painting.

Trying to decide if I should paint the grill frame. I'm using a silver Fender-type grill cloth. I can see through it a little. I'm afraid that painting it black would make it even more noticeable that just leaving it un-painted.

Has anyone who's built one of these have any suggestions?

Double the cloth around the frame

LelandCrooks wrote:Double the cloth around the frame

So just cut strips and glue it to the frame, then cover as usual?

Hmmm......gonna' take some careful measuring to make sure I have enough for both cabs.

I considered painting the frame grey or silver. But, I like your idea better.

Paint the frame. Black is OK, since it will appear similar to the black of the baffles behind the grille.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Paint the frame. Black is OK, since it will appear similar to the black of the baffles behind the grille.

I think I'll do that since I'll be painting anyway. Then, I can take a look and see how it ends up. If that doesn't work, then I can try putting extra cloth down.

Thanks.

Looks great, Bruce.

I started one of these yesterday, just because the weather was too nice to waste by working inside like I should have been.

Nice Build Bruce!

I'd like to be as fast as you are, but that's not the case, I miss time to spend on my build, and have encountered problems I on the baffles that took time to solve... But now it's ok, I just miss time...

Bbr6704 wrote:Nice Build Bruce!

I'd like to be as fast as you are, but that's not the case, I miss time to spend on my build, and have encountered problems I on the baffles that took time to solve... But now it's ok, I just miss time...

If you have a table saw, build a simple jig. I built one to build the WH10s a few years back and did another one for the compound cuts.




Here's some of the old pics from that build with two different setups.

Start with a piece of play wide enough for the baffles to be turned all directions. Put a strip of ply on the leading end at the angle of the first cut. To do this, lay your marked board down on the sled lining up the marks on your board with the edge of the sled. Take the strip and extend it out a couple of inches past the sled. Put it up against the board to be cut and to get the angle of the cut - then tack it down with a brad nailer or screws.

Now, do the same thing on the back end.

Adjust the fence so that the extension are going to get cut, but not the sled....an inch or two. Lock the fence and run the sled through with the saw blade at the correct bevel without the workpiece. You are only cutting the extensions. This is now your alignment edges. Put the workpiece on the sled. It should be nice and snug since you used it to place the extensions. Line up your cut marks with the edge of the extensions. Same thing with a different cut. The extensions had to stick out further in order for the workpiece to fit. Hope all this makes sense.

It works really well and I had all four baffles for the two XF10s cut perfectly in probably 20-30 minutes. That's 8 compound miter cuts.....and the time to build the jig (it's really just scraps).

Great jig and idea! That sure helps!

But sadly, I don't have a table saw, only a circular one... But, that's not my main problem, the most thing I miss if time!...

Anyway, my build is going on, at it's own speed, not super fast, but it's going on...

Dangit! Should have checked the Duratex before I started this project. Looks like I only have enough to finish one cabinet.

Oh well, Leland just sold another gallon.