Hello from Oklahoma City, Oklahoma!

[bjm362]

I just became a member of this forum today, and thus far it has been interesting! I wouldn't care to admit how hard is was to find the introduction thread. I am going to have to learn your navigation here as the search engine couldn't find it either!
I have a great deal of experience with sound in my lifetime as I am a Musician and a former Disc Jockey (from back when we had Discs)! I had a Mobile show for years and Designed some club systems. I am experienced at using numerous varieties of enclosures and have had to replace drivers in a few cabinets.

That being said about my experience level with sound reinforcement, I have only built a few boxes. I have some level of study of box design (I also am a member of another speaker building forum as well) and am looking forward to selecting the right plans for my purposes! Thus far I am very interested in the Jack series. Jacks are variants of horn designs I have used before. I am also looking at the Omni series as well as a few others.
Anyway, here is wishing the best to everyone....including me! LOL!

[Tom Smit]

Welcomce to the forum. I hope that your stay is encouraging, that you'll be able to learn the ins and outs of sound reproduction, and that you'll be able to have an enjoyable build.

[Chris_Allen]

Indeed, welcome to the forum.

What are you looking to build/find out?

[bjm362]

Welcomce to the forum. I hope that your stay is encouraging, that you'll be able to learn the ins and outs of sound reproduction, and that you'll be able to have an enjoyable build.

Thank you, and I as I mentioned, I am pretty well versed in sound reproduction, just not very in speaker building!

Indeed, welcome to the forum.

What are you looking to build/find out?

I am looking to build some very lightweight and versatile cabinets that can be combined/ separated very effectively depending on the venue! I want to build some good subs that are still manageable even with my back injury, and something significantly lighter than my Peavey SP 5ti's. Part of me still pines for the SP1's I had years ago, or even the Project 2's I watched go out of production while unable to purchase them. The other part is I have to accept I simply can't physically handle that kind of gear anymore. I actually had a great deal of conflict yesterday studying threads and seeing different attitudes expressed here. I decided to stick it out though as I feel that this is the best way for me to make an informed plans purchase. I can benefit tremendously from the details Mr Fitzmaurice has in his plans. Conversely however the attitude that you cannot stray from the plans in the slightest (the statements I saw yesterday that were objectionable to me) is simply not going to fly. Just as Hartely Peavey once told his engineering group that they have to consider "Why do people buy this stuff", a site selling plans has to consider, "why to people build this stuff". I have some very productive drivers, and a great source for drivers I WILL be experimenting with! Any build I do has got to suit my budget and purposes! Cheers to hanging in there !
BTW, Currently I am taking a very serious interest in the Jack series. I think I could build some of the standard jacks (with a good cut sheet I could take to the lumberyard) or could try the option of a local builder for some Jack Lites!

[Bruce Weldy]

OT12s are going to be lighter than Jacks. If you are planning to use subs all the time, then use the OT12s. T39s are light and very easy to maneuver with the built-in casters.

I can set up my whole rig by myself with no problems.....and I'm old.

As far as the speakers you already have - use 'em....as long as they are within 10% of the specs listed in the plans. But, you have to understand that these are horn designs and the proper speakers have to be used to get the best performance. There is a lot of science involved.....not like most designs nowadays where you stick in the biggest, baddest speaker you can get - shoot it with a gillion watts and let 'er fly.

With the suggested speakers, you can build a really loud, light system that needs half the power to get just as much volume as you are used to.

I run six subs, four tops, and four separate monitor mixes playing to 500 outdoors off a single 20 amp circuit. Hard to do that with off the shelf speakers that will need at least double the power.

Anyway, hope that helps a little to understand how well these designs work.

[Grant Bunter]

Hello and welcome to the forum from me as well

I actually had a great deal of conflict yesterday studying threads and seeing different attitudes expressed here. I decided to stick it out though as I feel that this is the best way for me to make an informed plans purchase. I can benefit tremendously from the details Mr Fitzmaurice has in his plans. Conversely however the attitude that you cannot stray from the plans in the slightest (the statements I saw yesterday that were objectionable to me) is simply not going to fly.

I find this a very interesting statement.
I would appreciate it if you would like to explain exactly what you mean by it.

By and large, you have to remember that many people who come here may never have built a speaker cab before. And once you have purchased some plans, and see for yourself how complete and comprehensive they are, you may then understand why it is said "follow the plans", or, "it's in the plans".

Sometimes, some builders may deviate from the plans, not only because they have thought about it considerably, but also often because they have more extensive workshop facility than the minimum basic tools required to follow a given set of plans.

However, even in the case above, one thing doesn't change. That would be the dimensional aspects in a build. Those properties need to be followed to the letter.
Because that's the only way to get a guaranteed result.
Countless versions of all these designs have been built to spec and performed as predicted.
We are not the designer. Bill has done all the hard work for us, and it is not theoretical.
So I hope you don't think, before you have even ventured into building some of Bill's designs, that because the Jacks are something like you have thought of in a design, that you can improve the design before you even know what Jacks (for example) sound like.

None of these designs are plain cubes of wood.

I partly understand your desire to go with Jacks, + subs as required.
In my mind, the quote that Jacks are the Jack of all trades is incomplete. The original quote was/is "Jack of all trades, master of none". Meaning there are better performing cabs to use as tops with subs. I know Bruce enjoys using his Otops. But the best tops are the DR series...

[Chris_Allen]

It all depends on scale.

I don't see a problem with having Jacks as tops if you have a venue where you run without subs - that's something I just can't do with my DR200's but could with the Jack's.

I have to admit, I tend to deviate from the plans a lot! but I don't complain if they don't sound how they should, I understood the risks! Jack Wedges, cut down Omni's, triangular horn curved DR's, Wedgehorn tops - it's all fun. 3/4 TLAH Pro's are next on the list, or maybe detachable mouth T48s.....

[bjm362]

OT12s are going to be lighter than Jacks. If you are planning to use subs all the time, then use the OT12s. T39s are light and very easy to maneuver with the built-in casters.

I can set up my whole rig by myself with no problems.....and I'm old.

As far as the speakers you already have - use 'em....as long as they are within 10% of the specs listed in the plans. But, you have to understand that these are horn designs and the proper speakers have to be used to get the best performance. There is a lot of science involved.....not like most designs nowadays where you stick in the biggest, baddest speaker you can get - shoot it with a gillion watts and let 'er fly.

With the suggested speakers, you can build a really loud, light system that needs half the power to get just as much volume as you are used to.

I run six subs, four tops, and four separate monitor mixes playing to 500 outdoors off a single 20 amp circuit. Hard to do that with off the shelf speakers that will need at least double the power.

Anyway, hope that helps a little to understand how well these designs work.

Right now I am really pleased I decided to stick it out and research further before making any rash decisions. More on that later. First as to your recommendations. You just essentially answered one question I was going to ask after taking a closer look at the Omni's!!! I do expect to run subs in everything except coffee shop level gigs, where I already have a sufficient all in one unit! That is good info to look at more thoroughly!
As to the driver thing, I found what I really needed to see in the words of Bill Fitzmaurice! It just took a bit more looking around to find. I quote

"Every plan contains a list of recommended drivers, and T/S specs so that you may choose from other options"

The rest of it is essentially irrelevant after that as I am aware just how finicky horns can be. I am not likely to stray more than 5% out TS parameter wise on the drivers. I just am going to buy the best drivers for the money I can and certainly use the drivers I have with the plans that work well with them!
I am going to look at some more of the responses I got from this and some more at the other stuff on the forum before I post ANYTHING ELSE Well I may ask one question tonight or tomorrow concerning CD's. I think that is the route that is going to be best suited to my life experiences and gives me the best potential to make use of what I have!
I also have to thank everyone for the replies, even the ones I am just about to read!

Yep, I am saying I can do this! It may take a while with how my back is, but I CAN do this!!!

[bjm362]

Hello and welcome to the forum from me as well

I actually had a great deal of conflict yesterday studying threads and seeing different attitudes expressed here. I decided to stick it out though as I feel that this is the best way for me to make an informed plans purchase. I can benefit tremendously from the details Mr Fitzmaurice has in his plans. Conversely however the attitude that you cannot stray from the plans in the slightest (the statements I saw yesterday that were objectionable to me) is simply not going to fly.

I find this a very interesting statement.
I would appreciate it if you would like to explain exactly what you mean by it.

By and large, you have to remember that many people who come here may never have built a speaker cab before. And once you have purchased some plans, and see for yourself how complete and comprehensive they are, you may then understand why it is said "follow the plans", or, "it's in the plans".

Sometimes, some builders may deviate from the plans, not only because they have thought about it considerably, but also often because they have more extensive workshop facility than the minimum basic tools required to follow a given set of plans.

However, even in the case above, one thing doesn't change. That would be the dimensional aspects in a build. Those properties need to be followed to the letter.
Because that's the only way to get a guaranteed result.
Countless versions of all these designs have been built to spec and performed as predicted.
We are not the designer. Bill has done all the hard work for us, and it is not theoretical.
So I hope you don't think, before you have even ventured into building some of Bill's designs, that because the Jacks are something like you have thought of in a design, that you can improve the design before you even know what Jacks (for example) sound like.

None of these designs are plain cubes of wood.

I partly understand your desire to go with Jacks, + subs as required.
In my mind, the quote that Jacks are the Jack of all trades is incomplete. The original quote was/is "Jack of all trades, master of none". Meaning there are better performing cabs to use as tops with subs. I know Bruce enjoys using his Otops. But the best tops are the DR series...

Hopefully without going into great detail it will suffice to say, I don't have the benefit of having the plans...yet! Most of my issues were resolved when I found the statement from BF that I quoted in the reply just before this. Any remaining adaptations I could potentially make I think are likely to already be options in the existing plans. I won't know that until I order my plans!
Edit: At this point obviously I am at least intelligent enough to not stupidly just give up on this without taking a thorough look at it. Also you guys obviously are part of an added value to doing this this way IMHO!

[bjm362]

It all depends on scale.

I don't see a problem with having Jacks as tops if you have a venue where you run without subs - that's something I just can't do with my DR200's but could with the Jack's.

I have to admit, I tend to deviate from the plans a lot! but I don't complain if they don't sound how they should, I understood the risks! Jack Wedges, cut down Omni's, triangular horn curved DR's, Wedgehorn tops - it's all fun. 3/4 TLAH Pro's are next on the list, or maybe detachable mouth T48s.....

By it all depends on scale, I think you are saying the same thing as when I say, how you intend to use it!

Some design alterations are intended to create a slightly different results, hence expecting different results.

Some design alterations are just born of necessity !

Some design alterations should just be avoided.

Obviously I am not the only one who is aware that that is up to the individual, and the results then are on them, or are a credit to the individual.

Edit, the only thing for sure right now is the more information I gather the more informed of a decision I can make! I don't have to decide today!

[Tom Smit]

Edit, the only thing for sure right now is the more information I gather the more informed of a decision I can make! I don't have to decide today!

There will be less/no regrets this way.

[bjm362]

I think I am going to start out with an Otop 12 ( as suggested), plus jig plans. Then after that build I am hoping to be able to get a CD! Unfortunately I doubt I can get in on any volume discounts time frame wise....except that the cd is a pretty cool discount in itself!
In the mean time, I have another question. Can the plans be sent with both formats (Word and PDF)? Is that also an extra charge, or do I just need to be sure and request it?
As to the drivers in question I have now seen my personally preferred source referenced enough here I am pretty sure they are going to already listed as as options in the plans.
Additionally I am still browsing and found some pretty cool articles posted here! http://www.bgavinsound.com/reference/mu ... /comments/
Including this one! http://www.bgavinsound.com/reference/mu ... theory.txt

Cheers everyone and thanks for the advice!

[bjm362]

While I think I am expanding my check list to order, the question about getting both formats is vital before I can order as I am not sure which version my printer will print properly! There has been a recent quirk in its software.

[Grant Bunter]

Oh my.
I use CutePDF to convert anything at all into a PDF. You choose CutePDF as the "printer" and next thing you know, you got a PDF lol.

Similarly,
Crtl A will highlight all in a PDF. Then you can copy and paste in word...

[bjm362]

Oh my.
I use CutePDF to convert anything at all into a PDF. You choose CutePDF as the "printer" and next thing you know, you got a PDF lol.

Similarly,
Crtl A will highlight all in a PDF. Then you can copy and paste in word...

Thank you for the reply Grant! I am really anxious to get started, I know patience is a virtue.... but not a favorite of mine!
I may try downloading an alternate program and see if that works better. I have never tried to print in Word, but I have Open Office it uses that format. I also have Adobe, but recently I printed some other plans and it cut off major chunks of the right side of each page. It may be something I am missing in the settings, but It started doing that without me changing anything. Y thinking was that If I got it both formats one or the other would work! The "How to order " page says it comes in word, but you can get it in PDf instead. If I get one or two planes plus jig in both, then I would know which format I need for future orders!