1st Build 2x Tuba 24

[nouvo1]

Building 2 of these. I'll try to post some pics after any significant amount of work is completed. Any feedback is appreciated as I'm not a particularly skilled craftsman.

[jimbo7]

Looking good so far.

Just take you time and keep re-reading the plans as you go. Don't rush things. You might wanna glue up all the panels before they're dry, but resist that urge. And brace all the panels like the plans show, too. I didn't and had to fight warped panels.

[nouvo1]

Drivers arrived today. I cut out panels 1,2, and 3 tonight. Cut out the holes in the baffles, and read through the plans multiple times trying to find answers to some questions that have popped up in my head. Gonna reread a few times before asking questions as the "It's in the plans" response scares me! Tomorrow it's time to start gluing. I've never used PL so this should be interesting!

[Grant Bunter]

Drivers arrived today. I cut out panels 1,2, and 3 tonight. Cut out the holes in the baffles, and read through the plans multiple times trying to find answers to some questions that have popped up in my head. Gonna reread a few times before asking questions as the "It's in the plans" response scares me! Tomorrow it's time to start gluing. I've never used PL so this should be interesting!

Great strategy!
Don't worry overly about "It's in the plans". Sometimes things are missed or misunderstood as you follow steps. Much better to ask and be sure than make a mistake.

Regarding PL, use nitrile gloves with it, and it's no problem. No gloves = black hands.
Oh, but do wear old clothes. It seems to get everywhere!

[nouvo1]

Nitrile gloves... most excellent idea. Adding to my shopping list. My questions thus far:

1. Is there any purpose in the driver spacer being that octagon shape? It would seem that it would serve the same purpose being an exact square. Not a big deal as it's easy to cut corners off.

2. The plans state how to attach the driver to the spacer/baffle. When doing it this way I'm confused as to how you would change drivers if/when they need replacing. I know how to run speakers properly and have *knock on wood* never blown anything. But this is my first speaker build, and there's a first for everything. On other cabinet designs of Bill's, that I've prematurely bought plans for, I've noticed the use of hurricane nuts ... but not on this one specifically.

3. There's no specific place to install the speakon hardware. I'm a long way from this, but I have the majority of the week off work, so I just may get to that point. Is there a recommended location? So far I'm thinking of putting it either on top of the cabs or on the back side. I'm guessing this is a preference sort of thing, but any recommendation with logical reasoning behind it would be great.

I hope I haven't been too specific about copyright designs etc. If I have please let me know.

[Grant Bunter]

Nitrile gloves... most excellent idea. Adding to my shopping list.

My questions thus far:

1. Is there any purpose in the driver spacer being that octagon shape? It would seem that it would serve the same purpose being an exact square. Not a big deal as it's easy to cut corners off.

I don't know for sure, but two things spring to mind:

Bill trys to keep the designs as light as possible. Every few ounces of ply not required saves weight. The octagone still supplies enough reinforcement to make the baffle rigid.

More important in my mind is chamber space. It needs to allow sufficient back pressure to be applied the the rear of the driver. Reducing chamber space ie by not making it an octagon, reduces rear cone pressure.

2. The plans state how to attach the driver to the spacer/baffle. When doing it this way I'm confused as to how you would change drivers if/when they need replacing. I know how to run speakers properly and have *knock on wood* never blown anything. But this is my first speaker build, and there's a first for everything. On other cabinet designs of Bill's, that I've prematurely bought plans for, I've noticed the use of hurricane nuts ... but not on this one specifically.

The access panel allows installation and removal of the driver if that's required.
Over the last 12 months or so there has been a move away from anything excpet recex screws for driver mounting, owing to the amount of trouble people have with T and hurricane nuts.

3. There's no specific place to install the speakon hardware. I'm a long way from this, but I have the majority of the week off work, so I just may get to that point. Is there a recommended location? So far I'm thinking of putting it either on top of the cabs or on the back side. I'm guessing this is a preference sort of thing, but any recommendation with logical reasoning behind it would be great.

Depends somewhat on usage. If you always will wall/corner load, you might place speakons on the sloped panel at the front. Speakons in this location require total leak sealing.
Many people put them down low, in behind the 45 degree angle panel that joins the bottom and the back. This means you only have to seal the wire going to that location, not the speakons as well.
Or you can parallel sets to both locations.

I hope I haven't been too specific about copyright designs etc. If I have please let me know.

Nope, you haven't at all. Panel dimensions and cut list layouts are a big no no

[nouvo1]

Sorry, that second question wasn't well worded. Yes, access panel. I was more thinking of what to fasten the driver to the spacer that would allow for it to be changed out. recex makes sense. Thanks! Heading to the hardware store and getting back to work on these.

[jimbo7]

Nope, you haven't at all. Panel dimensions and cut list layouts are a big no no

I've learned it's easier to plug in dimensions in a cutlist program than to ask how many sheets you'd need. I had such little scrap left over that I wish I did that with my first build.

[nouvo1]

This afternoon I got the baffle and spacer cut as well as panels 4,5,6. No gluing yet. Waiting for a second set of hands later this evening that has much more experience than myself. I'm including a pic of what I understand I'm suppose to use to fasten the driver to the spacer.

[Bruce Weldy]

Nope......read those plans again. That's the wrong way to connect the speaker. Use recex screws or t-nuts.

[nouvo1]

Gotcha. In that paragraph it mentions screws a few times and bolts once. So I will get #8 wood screws. Are those the correct locking washers at least?

[67baja]

People usually use the star type lock washers. Personally, I don't like the T-nuts and instead use Recex or I think Kreg pocket screws (from Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) are the same as Recex.

[67baja]

Recex:


http://www.amazon.com/Round-Washer-Rece ... B004S9SP4M

Kreg:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200487 ... QgodHkgA0g

The Kreg screws are available at most big box hardware stores, but I haven't found Recex screws local to me. The screws I linked to are 2", but you only want maybe 1 1/2"ers. "it's in the plans!" JUST KIDDING - don't hate.

[nouvo1]

Excellent. This I can do. Thanks!

[nouvo1]

I got to thinking this evening. Am I making a mistake not putting 2 drivers in this 24inch cabinet? I'm using the Kappalite 3010LF, so that's another $400. But once I glue that panel in, there's no turning back. I'm not sure why I decided to just use one in the first place. Feeling like a noob.

Edit: I also just realized that means cutting those darn baffles and spacers again!