Read the plans, and look at the right sketchup!

[Keryn O'Shea]

Here's a 28" wide Tuba 30 which was built, before realising that it requires three sets of braces! I found the easiest way to have one side off was to jigsaw around the horn path and pry off bits steadily so none of the mating baffles rip off on the way. It's aslo handy if you've made templates of the braces when building any cab. So all thats needed now is to cut out the braces, goo them in, cut another side using the template I made originally, stick that on & have a JD & dry... no drama!


The one already finished will stay with me forever now, as the shed sub. I think it'll be quicker to knock another one up, than destroy and repair the duratex, yea?

[Keryn O'Shea]

Step 2

[Keryn O'Shea]

Step 3, this bit came off in one go, steady pressure & listen for the little snaps

[Keryn O'Shea]

Cut some wood tmorrow

[Chris_Allen]

You really need to make sure those edges are clean and flat. Any raised edges could easily turn into an air gap.

I like your approach to removing the end panel though. I had some T48's which also had a bit of a vibration issue due to poor bracing - I didn't fix them though, I gave them away and built T39's!

[Grant Bunter]

Keryn,
Are you using PL premium?

I only ask because I had to rip out one brace in my first T39 build (I'd driven it in a bit further than I should, and didn't realise until it came to putting the final side on) and despite chisselling etc, when I pulled that brace out, it still took one layer of ply with it using PL.
That doesn't look to have happened with your cab...

[sine143]

I'm so sorry man! I had to point it out though

i agree with grant though... I couldnt imagine the sides coming off my t48 that easily.

[Keryn O'Shea]

Don't feel sorry Sine, not your fault, appreciated you pointing it out! Agreed Chris. The side didn't come off easily, let me tell you, it was definately on there, the side was completely ripped to peices coming off and the photo's are after I'd mostly cleaned them up, I was lucky thinking that all the other panels mated to it were glued on the end grain, so they stayed there. I've had to repair some Jack 10's before with removing a temporary pole socket spacer using this glue, and it ripped a LOT of ply out! I'll get the name of the goo used to glue this one together, it's definately an expanding polyurethane based adhesive, used in a sausuage gun but a little slower setting that PL, comes from germany, silver with red writing, get back on that one when back at the shed.

[Keryn O'Shea]

All triple braced & ready for adhesive, all the braces could be fitted as a whole apart from the 2/8 and 5/6 brace, an inch was cut out of the middle to be able to manouver them in with room not to wipe the goo off when fitting. One question: the 3/5 brace is to be used with a dual driver cab, but was going to fit two while I'm in here! Would that cause any dramas? The goo used for this cab originally is called "SOUDAFLEX 14LM" made by Soudal, in a suasuage gun, which doesn't expand l've just googled... The cabinet maker here at the time recommended it, any thoughts on it?
A good thing the other side won't have to come off, the finished cab will get the same treatment too I reckon.

[byacey]

If I had to remove a side panel, I think I would use a saber saw to remove all the wood between the joints, and then use a heat gun to soften the PU glue, one joint at a time.

[sine143]

All triple braced & ready for adhesive, all the braces could be fitted as a whole apart from the 2/8 and 5/6 brace, an inch was cut out of the middle to be able to manouver them in with room not to wipe the goo off when fitting. One question: the 3/5 brace is to be used with a dual driver cab, but was going to fit two while I'm in here! Would that cause any dramas? The goo used for this cab originally is called "SOUDAFLEX 14LM" made by Soudal, in a suasuage gun, which doesn't expand l've just googled... The cabinet maker here at the time recommended it, any thoughts on it?
A good thing the other side won't have to come off, the finished cab will get the same treatment too I reckon.

I would not use the same glue again. if you could find PL premium use that, especially for the braces cause you dont want them to rattle which would force you to probably do this all over again. I would also attemt to silicone up every joint you can reach at this point in time, to insure things are airtight, since the glue obviously did not expand to do that job correctly.

[Keryn O'Shea]

The cab was airtight sine, was tested and it performed well, no dramas there, we used a ton of this stuff to make sure of that, and there was no signs of it letting go of any braces, even with only a single set! I use Pl now, but theres some of the Soudal left over which I'm thinking of using, as previous experience in the mechanical workshop that different glues don't stick to each other, it would have to be tested if it adheres with the Pl. No matter how well I prepare the wooden surface, there'll still be residual glue. Had a real close look at all the internal joints and theres's a nice bead pushed out around all of them.

[Keryn O'Shea]

It hurt and felt good at the same time ripping this finished side off!

[Keryn O'Shea]

And then

[Keryn O'Shea]

Dont have to feed them as much juice for the same output, even without the v-plate (not sitting like that at test).