BillFitzmaurice.info

Intro-

I scanned through a bunch of "build" threads here before tackling the Titan 39, and found a huge base of useful tips and tricks; I've been a metalworking guy for ~40 of my (currently) 59 years, but despite inheriting a variety of woodworking tools have never taken any serious interest in it... 'til this project.

Really, you need little more than determination and a modest workspace to complete these plans... and not even much of the latter, as the photos will show. You absolutely don't need an arsenal of high-buck tools, or even an extra pair of hands (although that'd have been nice once or twice) to build the T39... some fresh sawblades should be considered a wise investment, though.

After deciding to build 24" wide I used Cutlist (http://www.delphiforfun.org/programs/cutlist.htm) to lay out the material usage for two 60" x 60" sheets of ½" BB plywood sourced from a local cabinet shop... in the end, I also cut a few final bits from two 24" x 30" pieces purchased from the local Woodcraft store (http://www.woodcraft.com/).

Basic cuts were made on the garage floor, using a circular saw and Home Depot guide:



...then squared/trimmed closer to plan sizes using my late-'50s ShopSmith table saw:



...which was also used for final-size trims. This old-as-me saw has perhaps 3/4 horsepower on a good day, so I went with a high toothcount/thin-kerf blade to reduce power demands.

One thing which didn't come with the saw, however was any sort of blade guard :



...so extreme caution was the order of the day any time it was plugged in. Even with a better machine I'd wholeheartedly recommend a GRR-Ripper, which you can get (along with excellent service) from Leland at speakerhardware (http://www.speakerhardware.com/micro-jig-grr-ripper.php).

Once the pieces were roughed to size, and the panel orientation laid out it was a simple matter of following the plan step-by-step:













...over successive nights, leaving time for the PL Premium to do its' thing... nighttime temps were generally in the low-30°F range (January-February) so I didn't try to rush construction.

BTW another tool I'd recommend for sure (if you don't already have one) is a brad nailer... I picked up a -very- inexpensive (<$20) 18ga nailer from Hazard Fraught Tools:



http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-b ... 68021.html

...and it never missed a beat as long as I used good-quality brads. This tool most definitely saved me time and numerous how-can-I-hold-this headaches.

Another evening or two, a couple more panels and pretty soon you're wrapping things up:







It's likely that either one of my sons, or my keyboard-player stepson will end up with the T39 at some point so I left a little 'easter egg' under the access panel explaining the setup:



...and will put something with the basics on the back near the connector. Speaking of which- I didn't have the foresight to plan that aspect out as well as I should have, and ended up surface-mounting (rather than flush-mounting) the connector... that necessitated nailing/gluing a guard piece around it for protection (can be seen in photo below) which wasn't the most elegant way to get from A to B. Ya live, ya learn.

DuraTex'ed a few coats (another learning curve, but great stuff!) and finished up mounting the furniture and handles yesterday...









Again, thanks to all here for the many informative threads across the site- to Leland at speakerhardware.com for his first-rate customer service- and to Bill, for extremely well-done and concise plans even a first-time woodworker can complete.

Regards,
Ed

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Beautiful work.

Great thread and build...

Grant Bunter wrote:

Great thread and build...

Ditto! Appreciate the detailed pics and descriptions. Question: Why just 1? What's the intended usage? Did I miss that part?

I understand your reason for putting the scoop handles where you did, but for moving them around, it's an awkward placement, it's off the center of balance, too high to really lift them by, and not a good place if you intend on rolling them. If you don't like the handles cut in as the plans show, you might want to consider these in the future: You can place them anywhere as long as you seal them up well with PL.

Another thing I was inclined to do was mount the Speakon on a dished plate right below the center brace (If you have 3 braces) that go between the back and the speaker chamber. I drilled a hole through the wall of the speaker chamber to pass the wire through, PL glued it along the bottom edge of the brace, and left a small service loop at the back allowing the cup to be removed for access to the connections, or connector replacement. This places the Speakon to be placed about the geographic center of the back. This doesn't mean it must to be done this way, just my view on convenience.

Thanks for the compliments- it's been a fun project.

miked, "the Plan" is to position the cabinet under a deck in my half-acre-ish backyard to reinforce a pair of Klipsch outdoor speakers. The T39 is unquestionably 'way more than needed, but ...well, that's the fun of it, isn't it~? lol

byacey, agree 100% with your assessment of the handle style and placement... it's a bit cumbersome, and the 20-something pound LAB12 doesn't help matters. I'd chosen that location as "this looks good" because I've used the chamber reducers, and that location was already isolated from the sound path.

Ditto with the Speakon placement- if I were to build another, I would certainly choose another option.
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Our credo:

Being outside, make sure you put some wire mesh on the front to keep mice out. I've seen speaker cones chewed up by rodents.

If it stays outside it'll get metal critter screen, plus something finer behind to keep out insects... several types of ill-tempered hornets thrive here in the southeast, and it'd be unfortunate to have a colony take up residence in the horn.

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Ah, for your intended usage, it is certainly "enough." I am a big believer in overkill too. And I totally agree with your tool box sticker. I'm "that guy" in the neighborhood that always has this guy at my door. Waving his finger just like that too. LOL!

ejh2854 wrote:If it stays outside it'll get metal critter screen, plus something finer behind to keep out insects... several types of ill-tempered hornets thrive here in the southeast, and it'd be unfortunate to have a colony take up residence in the horn.

Make sure you always have a long enough cable attached to the speakon and blow the buggers out

AntonZ wrote:

ejh2854 wrote:If it stays outside it'll get metal critter screen, plus something finer behind to keep out insects... several types of ill-tempered hornets thrive here in the southeast, and it'd be unfortunate to have a colony take up residence in the horn.

Make sure you always have a long enough cable attached to the speakon and blow the buggers out

I was going to suggest this ^

Well done.

Is that a table saw or a medieval torture device.

Although before my sawstops I did it all on a 40yr old delta with a teeny table like that. But the blade wasn't hanging out in the air.

Others may disagree, but I always find blade guards a nuisance. I like to see exactly what and where the blade is cutting. If you religiously maintain a personal rule where you never allow your hands to come within 12 inches of the blade, it's pretty difficult to ever cut yourself.

Most guys I've seen with missing fingers are the ones that are either a walking disaster who should never be allowed near any kind of power tools, or the seasoned pro who gets over confident and lets down his guard. -No pun intended.

If I may offer a word of advice - Always use very sharp blades. It's the dull blade that takes extra push to hog the wood past a dull blade. It's situations like this where a person can slip or miscalculate and end up contacting the blade.

Oh, and never make a cut against the fence that is wider than the length of the cut being made. It can be done, but if you slip, the wood can wedge between the blade and the fence with disastrous results.

I'm the same. Guards tend to be a pain. The ok kinda pain, not the missing limbs kinda pain. I always leave a push stick by the saw, so fingers are never going near the blade, and yes to see all that you are cutting is a plus. Who closes their eyes when using a saw? So why would you block out your view of what you are cutting with a guard? Push stick and safety gear for eyes and ears, and good to go.