Jack 12 Pictures

[JerryAllen]

Just started my J12 from a flat pack and run into something odd. Assembling things without glue just to make sure I am getting this right I have glued the throat assy and all measurements are good. The 23 degree 5" x 8" port reflectors do not appear to fit correctly. All the cut wood measures within at most 1/8" however the port reflectors leave a portion of the front/exposed part of the baffle about 3/8" or so that does not join with the horn shape of the port reflector, it does not form a clean line from baffle cutout to throat reflector.

Should the 23 degree angles on the port reflectors line up flush with the frontend of the throat and the edge of the square hole in the speaker baffle or is an exposed area of the baffle the norm? This does not show in the sketup document nor in the plan pictures.

Pictures tonight if needed.

Thank you,

Jerry Allen

[LelandCrooks]

Sometimes is the answer. It can be accumulated slight variances in the cut parts or in the assembly. I would pull the part up to flush with the edge of the cutout on the baffle, and round it on the front side

[Fenderfan]

Think I had the same but only myself to blame, cut them out at work at lunch. But I did what Leland is talking about to sort it out.

[LelandCrooks]

Or I should have also said I will cut you new parts if you give me lengths

[JerryAllen]

Thank you for the offer Leland the parts will work as they are. They almost meet lacking 1/8 I will fill and round them off. Some 1/2 x 1/8 wood strips would make it really simple to sand and shape them out.
http://www.amazon.com/Dollhouse-Miniatu ... ood+strips $7.99 for 12 24" pieces or I will cut some 1/2 x 8" pine strips just to face the reflector to the same nominal length probably take just a few minutes to fix it up.

I saw many of the same just browsing the build and jack forums so I doubt that this is a new issue I can see that this area would be a custom cut depending on whether you cut on the line left or right of the line it would very easy to be off by 1/8 at this point after 4 cuts.

Anyone had issues with bondo vibrating loose?

Jerry

[LelandCrooks]

None. Get spot putty for the little fills. Much easier.

[JerryAllen]

Started this build Monday 8/6 from a flat pack, today I put the sides on. Not much for patience but all in all I am pretty happy with it so far..... I have some cleanup to do, filling and shape the throat, add the driver spacer etc. Had quite a twist in it about 3mm maybe 4mm but it pulled out with relative ease.






A wood worker I am not now computer/network/sql/php I can do that!

Jerry

[Bruce Weldy]

Looks like you're doing just fine.

[kekani]

. . . A wood worker I am not. . .

DeWalt, Jorgensen & Irwin, hmmm, a little sandbagging going on? Looks good, and clean.

Aaron

[JerryAllen]

. . . A wood worker I am not. . .

DeWalt, Jorgensen & Irwin, hmmm, a little sandbagging going on? Looks good, and clean.

Aaron

The pipe clamps are my father in laws, the Irwins are his as well, finish carpenter/cabinet maker. The Dewalts I use every day in my job which has nothing to do with wood but I would not want to do this without them. I discovered a brand new paint scraper (very sharp) takes PL off just a paper thickness at a time makes it much easier to get the joints cean without damaging the ply (too much) and the scraper goes pretty much right into the corners. I was concerned my build was sloppy no sandbagging but I did use a 3' chunk of railroad track to press the twist out of the cabinet while attaching the sides until I borrowed the pipe clamps I couldn't get the cabinet to stay within 1/4' of square.

Jerry

[kekani]

I discovered a brand new paint scraper (very sharp) takes PL off just a paper thickness at a time makes it much easier to get the joints cean without damaging the ply (too much) and the scraper goes pretty much right into the corners. I was concerned my build was sloppy

I used a cabinet scraper on my first Jack build, trying to keep everything clean. On the subsequent Lite builds, forget it. Nobody's going to see the inside, and there's so much gluing surfaces I relegated myself to "at least I know it's sealed". Which they are.

Now, on the outside parts that you can see, I went to town with paper towels on a gloved hand, while the pl was wet, sort of like you do with bathroom caulking.

Aaron

[JerryAllen]

All the glue stays inside. The outside gets the cosmetics so maybe it won't leak, knock on wood. Shaping the Reflector is killing me! These (building #2 some day soon) will be used for both bass cab and a set of PA cabs.

How much if any will sharp edges cause chuff/puff/huff in the Jack 12 for bass? Maybe I'm being too picky but I have built a couple of subwoofer cabs that were simply dreadful until I rounder everything that air passed over.

Jerry

[JerryAllen]

Another question. What do you use for the back panel attachment? Wood screws or hurricane nuts?

Would E-Z Lok in 1/4 x 20 be OK?
http://www.amazon.com/E-Z-LOK-Threaded- ... s_indust_6

More pictures I should have used the smaller head screws filling the holes around the 1/4 rounded edges was a disaster before 1/4 rounding. Filling them after rounding tonight hope that turns out better. Shattered the ones I tried with the router. Had to add just a bit of wood to make the throat reflectors come out to the ends. Popsicle sticks perfect fit. Had a friend make me up a BFM plate black on silver for $3.00





Thank you,

Jerry

[LelandCrooks]

Wood screws. Hurricanes are a pita in this application. Actually with all the changes in the cabs hurricanes are pretty much only useful now for driver mounting. All the access panels are better with wood screws.

[Drey Chennells]

+1 Use the smooth shank coarse thread screw for pull power and to avoid stripping.
http://www.speakerhardware.com/recex-he ... 1-12x8.php