Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

[doncolga]

Hey,

I've not made a tool purchase yet, but I'm thinking I may be better off getting a brad nailer since I've got access to a body shop level air compressor. The thing hardest on all my builds has been drilling the pilot holes, applying PL, setting the panels, then gluing in place. But I like that the screws pull really tight. Any comments or suggestions on that?

Thanks!

Donny

[Bruce Weldy]

Brad nailer is a Godsend. I use mine all the time for everything. And it doesn't require a high-end compressor. Pancake compressor kits with the nailers are pretty reasonable.

[doncolga]

Brad nailer is a Godsend. I use mine all the time for everything. And it doesn't require a high-end compressor. Pancake compressor kits with the nailers are pretty reasonable.

Very cool to hear. After pilot holes etc, I can't imagine laying down PL, setting a panel and nailing it. That'd be 150% faster.

[bzb]

I still use screws for the first couple panels until there's a pretty solid base to work from. Lots of clamps, too.

I also still use screws when I want to see something pull tighter or more squared. And on Titan builds, always use screws for the final side.

But yes, brads are a gigantic time saver. As long as the joint is good and square, the brads will hold just as well as the screws.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I only use screws where it's not possible to clamp and shoot. Attaching the second side of a Tuba or Titan to the interior panels is about it.

[Jon Barnhardt]

I only use screws where it's not possible to clamp and shoot. Attaching the second side of a Tuba or Titan to the interior panels is about it.

I've found that putting a couple 2"x4"'s on edge across the final side panel using clamps on each side of the 2"x4", with the other end of the clamp grabbing the underside of my bench (under the tuba/titan) pulls everything together very tight, and can still get by with brads for the final sides...

[doncolga]

Any particular model nailer you all would recommend?

Thanks!

Donny

[Jon Barnhardt]

I'm using a very in-expensive one that came as part of an air stapler/nailer combo pack. Works without problem so far.

[el_ingeniero]

Not to highjack this thread, bit I have yet to figure out how to shoot brads on the joints between panels 2/4 and 5/6 on the T39.

If I try to shoot parallel to one of the panels, there's not really enough wood to grab hold of.

If I try to get more wood by setting the nail further from the edge and shooting the nail at right angles to the joint, the angle is so oblique that the brad just bounces off ond goes winging off into a corner.

Either way, it's a major PITA.

I'm thinking of gluing a thin, 3/4" wide strip of ply along the bottom of the baffle to give myself something more substantial to send the nails into, or going back to screws.

[Jon Barnhardt]

It takes lots of practice on an angle that tight. You need to know your gun, and use brads that don't bend easily. It definitely can be done though. Also try upping the air pressure closer to the maximum rating for the gun. (I use about 95 lbs/sq in)

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

I only use screws where it's not possible to clamp and shoot. Attaching the second side of a Tuba or Titan to the interior panels is about it.

I've found that putting a couple 2"x4"'s on edge across the final side panel using clamps on each side of the 2"x4", with the other end of the clamp grabbing the underside of my bench (under the tuba/titan) pulls everything together very tight, and can still get by with brads for the final sides...

I'd leave it clamped until the adhesive sets. Brads might keep it from bowing, might not.

[Jon Barnhardt]

I only use screws where it's not possible to clamp and shoot. Attaching the second side of a Tuba or Titan to the interior panels is about it.

I've found that putting a couple 2"x4"'s on edge across the final side panel using clamps on each side of the 2"x4", with the other end of the clamp grabbing the underside of my bench (under the tuba/titan) pulls everything together very tight, and can still get by with brads for the final sides...

I'd leave it clamped until the adhesive sets. Brads might keep it from bowing, might not.

I forgot to mention, I do. I mainly use the brads in this step to insure that the panels do not slide from the pressure.

[el_ingeniero]

I'm using 1", 18G brads made by Porter/Cable. You'd think they'd be plenty stiff enough.

How far from the edge and at what angle are you shooting the brads, and how are you holding the gun in relation to the piece when you do those panels?

[el_ingeniero]

Brad nailer is a Godsend. I use mine all the time for everything. And it doesn't require a high-end compressor. Pancake compressor kits with the nailers are pretty reasonable.

Very cool to hear. After pilot holes etc, I can't imagine laying down PL, setting a panel and nailing it. That'd be 150% faster.

If you choose between a router and a brad nailer, you should think about the tradeoff between working haster, and being able to do more.

With a router, you can do more stuff. With a brad nailer, what you can already do goes faster.

OTOH, you can get a decent pancake compressor for not too much, and WEN makes a brad gun that's gotten decent reviews on Amazon @ about $24.

If you can afford it, get the smallest compressor that lets you run nail guns and HPLV sprayers. That way you can build decks and stuff like that.

[Jon Barnhardt]

The top of the gun closest to panel 1 and the part of the gun your hand is wrapped around is about a 35 deg angle from panel 5 (or 2, depending on which joint you are nailing).

The safety piece of the gun about 3/4 of an inch away from the edge. (this is where it will differ from gun to gun)

Also you might try 16 gauge brads in places you don't need to router. They are stiffer and will bend/ricochet less. I have 2 guns (one loaded with each) that I use a stiffer brad if I have a particular angle giving me trouble. As cheap as brad nailers are (especially used) it pays to have a couple handy