Among the million other things I have going on I am doing some reading and research in preparation to my Titan 39 build. What is the best way to dial in the correct (and accurate) miter angle?
I have seen these tools online but wanted some expert opinions.
There are no angle cuts that I can think of on a T39, just bevel cuts (semantics). I just used the scale on my table saw - it worked just fine.......this isn't a joint that will be seen from the outside and the PL will help fill up space. Being off a degree or two on the bevel cuts won't even be noticeable.
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
Oh! My bad..
I guess I should have said BEVEL instead of angle..
I am a bit OCD and I want things to be just right.. I have done a lot of remodeling in the house. I just gutted the kitchen in January overhauled everything including electrical and pluming.
I try to make my goal "perfection" but I do sometimes fall short and end up with "pretty good"
If my goal was "good enough" then my result could be "crap" Argh! I guess you see my reasoning..
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
The only miters you'll make is on the braces. Easiest to hold it up to the straight edge, then mark a line along where the braced panel will be. Then just put it on the sled and sneak up on your cut. It's better to be slightly smaller than slightly larger (PL will fill in gaps, but won't cinch in bowed panels).
Bobby Shively
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V
Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000
I just got one of these. Ptreeusa was running them half price. Unnecessary for cabinet construction, unless you're pretty sure your saw is off. I use it to build jigs from the drawings.
Bruce Weldy wrote:...Being off a degree or two on the bevel cuts won't even be noticeable.
Don't sweat it.....make sawdust.
+1. A degree here and there doesn't matter. PL will take care of it.
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Chris_Allen wrote:
1 or 2mm however could be a problem. Spend more on a good rule and pencil!
...and glasses
Oh, laugh if you want to, but this is no joke. Once upon a time I would do SMD soldering unassisted. These days I need glasses to find the damn soldering iron
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
Rune Bivrin wrote:..Once upon a time I would do SMD soldering unassisted. These days I need glasses to find the damn soldering iron
Same here. Things get really complicated when you've lost your glasses, and try and look to find them...without the glasses you lost in the first place
Semi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.
jswingchun wrote:1 or 2mm however could be a problem. Spend more on a good rule and pencil!
1 or 2 mm on the angle of a bevel cut in the horn path of a T39? I don't think that that would be a problem.
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)
Harley wrote:Same here. Things get really complicated when you've lost your glasses, and try and look to find them...without the glasses you lost in the first place
I had a similar but opposite experience years ago. Early morning, alarm clock rings, sleepy me puts glasses on then starts looking for my glasses. It took me quite a while to not find them
Harley wrote:Same here. Things get really complicated when you've lost your glasses, and try and look to find them...without the glasses you lost in the first place
I had a similar but opposite experience years ago. Early morning, alarm clock rings, sleepy me puts glasses on then starts looking for my glasses. It took me quite a while to not find them
I can relate to that. I had lasik done twelve years ago. Before that I was severely myopic (which explains why I could solder SMD without glasses), and I always knew to the inch where my glasses were. It was a pure reflex every morning to pick'em up and put'em on, to the extent that it was something I didn't really notice happening.
But I think I would have realized it quite quickly. After all, I couldn't find the bathroom without glasses back then.
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)
Semi-retired: Former Australia and New Zealand Authorised BFM cab builder.
