Tuba 60 lab 12 slim build

[chunkymunkey_1]

soo.... are the plans for the 15" version not included? i really have to translate ALL those measurements? Thats pretty lame if you ask me. I was excited, now i'm just discouraged. Somebody please help! I have already purchased the kit from leland. My system will eventually consist of 4 tuba60 slims lab 12 loaded and 4 otop 15 w/ premium drivers. I'm gonna be doing dubstep, house/electronica and live music...in that order.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

soo.... are the plans for the 15" version not included? i really have to translate ALL those measurements? Thats pretty lame if you ask me. .

Did you read the plans? Making unfounded criticism is beyond merely 'pretty lame'.
It does get you put onto my 'ignore list' with your first post. Congratulations.

[petegt]

soo.... are the plans for the 15" version not included? i really have to translate ALL those measurements? Thats pretty lame if you ask me. .

Did you read the plans? Making unfounded criticism is beyond merely 'pretty lame'.

+1 READ THE PLANS at least twice.

[Tom Smit]

Hi chunkymunkey_1! Welcome!
Where are you located? By your comment it seems that you are in a locality that uses metric. If that is the case, then the easiest way to follow the plans is to purchase an Imperial measurement device, rather than using metric and trying to convert. But then again, maybe I misunderstood.

[Dave Non-Zero]

15 inch version meaning 15 inch wide or 15 inch driver? Both are included. The 15 inch driver version is 27 inch wide. The 15 inch wide version For the lab12 is 15inches wide and requires one set of braces. Calculations done.

[AntonZ]

Hi chunkymunkey_1! Welcome!
Where are you located? By your comment it seems that you are in a locality that uses metric. If that is the case, then the easiest way to follow the plans is to purchase an Imperial measurement device, rather than using metric and trying to convert. But then again, maybe I misunderstood.

That may be true once you are more or less used to talking/thinking imperial next to metric. This takes a long time if you grow up thinking metric. I recalculated all the measurements to metric and wrote these down in my plans for the first couple of cabs that I built. Been reading these forums for a few years now, and only recently have I noticed that I got somewhat used to you guys talking inches and feet all the time. Only now would I start building a cab using imperial measurements, perhaps. Before I just didn't feel comfortable enough with it, as something like 17 13/32 just meant absolutely nothing to me. I have no feeling for what that would look like, more or less. While I can see right away that when I need 44.2cm, that piece right there is not going to be a candidate. I find it hard to cut and build when the measurements are meaningless to me. Somewhat like driving around blindfolded with someone in the passenger seat telling me when to accelerate/break/turn.

[SeisTres]

as something like 17 13/32 just meant absolutely nothing to me.

Nor to me. That's why I always try to stick to fourths and eights if I really have to be precise. It would be nice if we actually used mectric system not just in the lab but everywhere else, too, but change does not come easy.

EDIT: LOL, almost forgot why I was actually posting.

You do know that all the different widths and different drivers options are actually the very first things listed in the plans, right?

[Greg Plouvier]

Uuum....here you say:

are the plans for the 15" version not included

Then you say:

My system will eventually consist of 4 tuba60 slims lab 12 loaded

Ok....I for one am

Plans include 15 and 12 versions

[chunkymunkey_1]

I think i got it all figured out. Thank all you guys for your helpful input.

[chunkymunkey_1]

[Dave Non-Zero]

I think i got it all figured out. Thank all you guys for your helpful input.

Still don't actually know what you needed figuring out!

[chunkymunkey_1]

Going to get wood today. I'm using 9 ply 1/2" bb for all parts. I will take pictures and start a build thread if anyone is interesed. and instead of duratex i'm going to use cascade vibration dampening spray. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... r=268-256f duratex. Hoping it will make things even more tight!

[DJPhatman]

Going to get wood today. I'm using 9 ply 1/2" bb for all parts. I will take pictures and start a build thread if anyone is interesed. and instead of duratex i'm going to use cascade vibration dampening spray. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... r=268-256f duratex. Hoping it will make things even more tight!

The 1 and 5 gallon material you tried to link to (the link is bad) looks more like tar than exterior speaker enclosure covering. You will be better off sticking to DuraTex, Line-X or over-the-counter truck bed liner. I'm not sure what you mean by "Hoping it will make things even more tight!"

[chunkymunkey_1]

" It is an air curing, water-based, exterior grade damping paste, which has been engineered specifically for use as an undercoating in various automotive applications and is non-toxic and environmentally safe. This unique combination of silica-mica, ceramics and an advanced chemical binder greatly reduces structural resonance by converting vibration into "viscous" friction or low level heat. Once the purple liquid coating is dry it is a waterproof, very hard film-type abrasion resistant coating, with a black speckled finish."

Apparently its not a tar, i dunno if were lookin at the same stuff tho. lemme try the link again
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=268-256

[chunkymunkey_1]

And by tight i meant no vibrations, all acoustic energy comes in the form of sound instead of being absorbed by the wood as vibrations. Just a lil extra precaution as i know the pressures of the t60 must me immense!