Mixer Rack

[doncolga]

Hey,

I've got an old Distex mixer/amp rack, 12 front, 8 top, carpet covered. This was one of the very first pieces of gear my parents actually got me way back when I was in high school. I used to carry all my gear in that, and I don't know exactly how heavy it was or what exactly I had in it, but I remember it was pretty heavy. The great thing of course was that everything was plugged up already. At some point I got tired of the weight and split it up into smaller racks which required some patching every setup, then I ditched some of my amps and went with powered speakers. Setup was a messy, corded hassle.

So...back to the Distex...now that I'm about to get some lightweight amps, I'm really tempted to move back to the old mixer rack. How great would it be to not patch any rack stuff together. I'm guessing it will be about 90-100 lbs, fully loaded, including the rack itself. A factor in this is that I use a trailer now, so I would only have to lift it a foot or two, or even lean it in. Also, with this rack, I'll be able to have a panel on the back to run tops and subs on one set of speakon cables. I'm definitely leaning this way and want to try it.

Any comments or suggestions one way or the other?

Donny

[Bruce Weldy]

Do it!

With the lightweight amps, you can easily lift it. Here's some pics of the one I built like the one you are describing before we went to the XLS amps...took 2 people then, now my drummer sticks it in the trailer by himself.

Note the PowerCon connector on the panel for AC....no cord to fish out of the rack. Plug it in and go!

[doncolga]

Hey Bruce,

That orange cable on the left is power correct?...I'm not familiar with that setup....can you explain how you have that?


OK...I just read again and saw your comment on the power conn...I'm still new to that but should be able to find a link. Is the back side of that a special type of connector as well?

Donny

[Bruce Weldy]

Hey Bruce,

That orange cable on the left is power correct?...I'm not familiar with that setup....can you explain how you have that?

Donny

Yep, that's it on the left. It's a Neutrik connection scheme - like the speakons for speakers. Works the same way, but can't accidently interconnect.

Buy a good 12 gauge extension cord. Cut about 4 inches off the female end. Wire that to the panel connector inside the rack. Plug your power conditioner/power strip into that. Put the PowerCon connector on the cable end and volia! A really cool AC connection. I don't know why I didn't do something like this years ago....I guess the older you get - the more short cuts you figure out to make life simple.

[Bruce Weldy]

here's the link....use the blue ones...

http://www.neutrik.com/fl/en/audio/204_ ... tlist.aspx

[Greg Plouvier]

Couple of suggestions-
If you have room to carry it, buy a ramp - best $140 you'll ever spend:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-ca ... 94057.html
The exposed AC connections on the inside of racks(like on the panel mount powercon) need to be enclosed in some sort of metal box.
Buy SO power cable if you can afford it.

[doncolga]

Couple of suggestions-
If you have room to carry it, buy a ramp - best $140 you'll ever spend:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-lb-ca ... 94057.html
The exposed AC connections on the inside of racks(like on the panel mount powercon) need to be enclosed in some sort of metal box.
Buy SO power cable if you can afford it.

SO power cable?...hmmmm.....what's that? I've got a really big, round black cable now....almost like garden hose. What kind of metal box should I be looking for?

[Greg Plouvier]

Sounds like you probably have SO already.

From: http://www.hi-line.com/industrial-supplies/so-cord/

SO Cord or SO Cable is a name often used for a power cord or portable cord. The name comes from the UL letter designations used on power cords.

The letters attached to portable cord types each possess a specific meaning. Below are the meanings that will help you decipher the type of portable cord you will need. For example, Type SO portable cord is a 600-volt service cord with an oil resistant outer jacket. A SJO would be the same but with a 300-volt rating. The letters used to describe portable cords hold significance. Below are the meanings for each letter.

•S = 600 Volt Service Cord
•J = Junior Service - 300 Volt
•T = Thermoplastic
•E = Elastomer - thermoplastic that looks and feels like rubber
•O = Oil Resistant Outer Jacket
•OO = Oil Resistant Outer Jacket and Oil Resistant Insulation
•W = Weather and Water Resistant (approved for indoor and outdoor use)

Just use a handy box or similar - as long as it's deep enough:
http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/14- ... 38329.aspx

Drill holes thru your panel to match the threaded holes on the box and attach with 6-32 pan heads.

[doncolga]

DENIED!!!!

Man...so close but SO FAR. Even with right angle connectors, I think this will not be deep enough. Back to two small racks for the time being.

[Chris_Allen]

How annoying!

Are you going to remove that back panel?

[James R]

Right angle connectors?

[Greg Plouvier]

Might be able to move the rack rail toward the front(would need to be cut) or just slide the mixer towards the front, so the mixer sticks into the front lid some?? Depends on front lid depth.

[Bruce Weldy]

Just cut out the section of the back panel where you need access. Either that or use right angle plugs and plug it all in before screwing the mixer into the rack.

[doncolga]

Just cut out the section of the back panel where you need access. Either that or use right angle plugs and plug it all in before screwing the mixer into the rack.

That very well may work...or I may just cut the whole thing off and attach another one.

Thanks man!

[doncolga]

Just cut out the section of the back panel where you need access. Either that or use right angle plugs and plug it all in before screwing the mixer into the rack.

This may be a no-go The back cover does not clar the aread that I would have to remove, so it would heave an open hole I may just try my hand at building one over my Christmas break