I have read a TON of information on this topic and heard both sides. Personally, I agree with Bill on this subject and here's why. I have spent my entire adult life building, servicing and networking computers. I found out computers that are "burned-In" produce less troubles and will survive a much longer time. I believe this is because the electrical components, in laymen terms, react to the heat and electrical components thus becoming more stable. In other words, they "conform" to heat and electrical current.
NOW, I saw this article on a technique to actually burn-in speakers and I was wondering if it would work? Also, I DID search the forum and did not see a answer to this, so if it has been posted, please forgive me. This post is from matrixhifi.com and here is the link to the thread http://www.matrixhifi.com/ENG_contenedo ... avoces.htm . Scroll down to where it says "Scanspeak" and the technique will be explained. Here is what I am referring too.
"There is a fast way to do it and the speaker designer should burn in the units (especially the woofers) before tuning the cabinet volume, damping material and port length (vented speaker) and trimming the cross-over network.
All you need is a sine wave generator and a power amplifier. Keep the drive unit in free air. Set the frequency to about 75% of the expected free air resonance frequency of the drive unit and turn up the voltage until the cone reaches full excursion without making mechanical noise. Let it run for 5 minutes and the job is done."
I don't know about you guys, but If I ran my speakers loud to burn them In, I would go straight to jail from complaints...lol. This is why it's appealing to me.
What do you guys think??
Crash
Technique for speaker "burn-In"
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Technique for speaker "burn-In"
"If it's too loud, your too old! What's that? I didn't hear you"
Friends don't let friends use crappy speakers!
Friends don't let friends use crappy speakers!
Re: Technique for speaker "burn-In"
Currently Built:
4 T39 24" 3012LF
4 WH10 2510
4 DR200 Pro 8a
4 DR250 2510
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4 T39 24" 3012LF
4 WH10 2510
4 DR200 Pro 8a
4 DR250 2510
**************
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Re: Technique for speaker "burn-In"
Thanks Last.
"If it's too loud, your too old! What's that? I didn't hear you"
Friends don't let friends use crappy speakers!
Friends don't let friends use crappy speakers!
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Re: Technique for speaker "burn-In"
Drivers burn in because they're mechanical, with parts that change their characteristics with use. Electrical components don't change with use. But there is a benefit to burn in at the manufacturing level, which is to weed out defective units.NCcrashman wrote: I found out computers that are "burned-In" produce less troubles and will survive a much longer time. I believe this is because the electrical components, in laymen terms, react to the heat and electrical components thus becoming more stable. In other words, they "conform" to heat and electrical current.
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Re: Technique for speaker "burn-In"
NCcrashman wrote:
All you need is a sine wave generator and a power amplifier. Keep the drive unit in free air. Set the frequency to about 75% of the expected free air resonance frequency of the drive unit and turn up the voltage until the cone reaches full excursion without making mechanical noise. Let it run for 5 minutes and the job is done."
I don't know about you guys, but If I ran my speakers loud to burn them In, I would go straight to jail from complaints...lol. This is why it's appealing to me.
What do you guys think??
Crash
The article you quoted states that the driver unit is to be burned-in while in free air! That is correct procedure. When driven at approx 30hz to its excursion limits, it actually makes very little noise.
But 5 minutes is useless. The spider, which is usually some sort of fabric soaked in epoxies, has to loosen up along with the cone surround. Recommendations are anywhere from 6 to 48 hours.
John Luke
Pair of Omni 212's
Pair of Omni 212's