Grain lifting on ply face

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jswingchun
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Grain lifting on ply face

#1 Post by jswingchun »

Anybody have any good tricks for dealing with grain that lifts on the face of the ply? In the past I have just ignored it, but I thought I would check to see if anyone has any easy tricks for knocking it down. Every time I sand it, more just pops up.
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#2 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

With most softwood plywood, such as pine, spruce and fir, it's almost impossible to prevent. Arauco doesn't suffer that problem, and that's why I use it rather than the other softwood choices.

coolhandjjl
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#3 Post by coolhandjjl »

You're talking about chips along the cut edge? When I find loose veneer, I intentionally pop it off, then fill. (Don't want anything to start buzzing one the speaker gets fired up.)

I learned a trick here, score the line heavily with a razor, then make the saw cut.
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bgavin
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#4 Post by bgavin »

Masking tape across the kerf will also help.
My biggest worry is that when I'm dead and gone, my wife will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them.

bzb
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#5 Post by bzb »

If you mean chipout, that's an entirely different subject than grain raising. Raising or lifting the grain is a finishing technique you do on loose fibers after sanding. Basically, after your sanding but before applying finish, you run a moist rag along the face of the wood to allow loose, hairy fibers to soak up some moisture. Then you can identify areas that need to be lightly sanded once more before applying finish.

Of course, if you sand too much or too aggressively, you probably end up knocking the fibers around and getting more :oops:

But, this is only necessary if you're staining the cabinets, like a table tuba or something. If you're painting, just scratch the surface up with 60 grit is what Bill suggests. I use 120, only because I have a ton of 120 grit discs.
bgavin wrote:Masking tape across the kerf will also help.
This trick has never worked for me on cross cuts, even with a specific crosscut blade. The blade trick works with thin veneered hardwoods, but I can't get Baltic Birch to NOT chip out some on cross cuts.

I've never had much of a problem ripping the sheets (which makes sense). Just minor splinters.
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jswingchun
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#6 Post by jswingchun »

Actually, it's not chip out on the cut lines, it is the face of the ply itself, and it is arauco ply. I can sand it, then if I run a cloth over the ply to clean up the dust, the grain lifts and snags on the cloth. Probably not big deal, but it's the first time I have run into it with arauco.
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)

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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#7 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

jswingchun wrote:Actually, it's not chip out on the cut lines, it is the face of the ply itself, and it is arauco ply. I can sand it, then if I run a cloth over the ply to clean up the dust, the grain lifts and snags on the cloth. Probably not big deal, but it's the first time I have run into it with arauco.
I've never had it happen, but I don't run a cloth over it. After sanding with 40 grit on an ROS I blow it clean and DuraTex it.

bzb
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#8 Post by bzb »

What grit are you using? Type of sander? Technique?

But as Bill says, it really doesn't matter much. Coat that sucker with some Duratex and you're golden.
Bobby Shively
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Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
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gdougherty
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#9 Post by gdougherty »

A few things you could try.

Do as Bill recommends, sand, blow it off with air and you could even wipe it down with a dry microfiber towel to pickup anything left behind.

Alternately, wipe with a damp towel, paint with a good basecoat of primer. I've been thinking this may a good idea anyway for better adhesion of Duratex over any leftover expanding poly glue in corners. I've also had issues with adhesion over certain types of wood filler. Primer should bond to that and give you a good uniform surface for applying Duratex. Sand with 220 to knock down the grain and re-wipe the surface. Depending on what you take off, either re-coat with primer or jump straight to Duratex.

For myself, I've wiped with a damp rag and raised the grain as well but by the time I apply a basecoat and a coat or two of texture for durability I can't see the grain anymore unless I'm really trying.

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jswingchun
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#10 Post by jswingchun »

I'm using a random orbital sander with 100 grit paper. I am going to pick up some 60 grit tonight then I am going to quit worrying about it. I'm sure you are all correct that duratex will cover it fine. Maybe I will sand it a bit more after hitting it with the latex paint before I DT it or maybe I will just leave it. I just need to quit being so anal about it.
Omni 10
Omni 10.5
OmniTop 12 x 4
Wedgehorn 8 x 3
XF212
T39 @ 18" x 2
T39 @ 20" x 2
T39 @ 28" x 2
Jack 110 x 5
Jack Lite 12
XF210
XF210 (Slant only, no crossfire)

bzb
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#11 Post by bzb »

Save your trip. 100 grit is fine. 60 grit will probably just tear more out.

I prime with an acrylic first, then lightly sand with 220 RO, one pass.
Bobby Shively
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Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V

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T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
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Zack Brock
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#12 Post by Zack Brock »

jswingchun wrote:I'm using a random orbital sander with 100 grit paper. I am going to pick up some 60 grit tonight then I am going to quit worrying about it. I'm sure you are all correct that duratex will cover it fine. Maybe I will sand it a bit more after hitting it with the latex paint before I DT it or maybe I will just leave it. I just need to quit being so anal about it.
If that doesn't work you could try 10 grit sandpaper: http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-Shee ... B000ET0U48

:mrgreen:
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Drey Chennells
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#13 Post by Drey Chennells »

jswingchun wrote:Actually, it's not chip out on the cut lines, it is the face of the ply itself, and it is arauco ply. I can sand it, then if I run a cloth over the ply to clean up the dust, the grain lifts and snags on the cloth. Probably not big deal, but it's the first time I have run into it with arauco.
You don't mean a wet or damp cloth do you? If so as was mentioned that will always pop the grain out some as its a technique to prepare for a stain, as may already know. If you meant a dry cloth to wipe off the dust after sanding and its snags what the hecks it snagging on? Just punch a hole in it and show that ply who's boss..
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Bill Fitzmaurice
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#14 Post by Bill Fitzmaurice »

bzb wrote:Save your trip. 100 grit is fine. 60 grit will probably just tear more out.

I prime with an acrylic first, then lightly sand with 220 RO, one pass.
I think 100 is too fine; 40 puts a rough finish on the cab, better for the DuraTex to grab hold of and bond to.

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tdogg
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Re: Grain lifting on ply face

#15 Post by tdogg »

Zack Brock wrote:
jswingchun wrote:I'm using a random orbital sander with 100 grit paper. I am going to pick up some 60 grit tonight then I am going to quit worrying about it. I'm sure you are all correct that duratex will cover it fine. Maybe I will sand it a bit more after hitting it with the latex paint before I DT it or maybe I will just leave it. I just need to quit being so anal about it.
If that doesn't work you could try 10 grit sandpaper: http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-Shee ... B000ET0U48

:mrgreen:
LOL 10 grit would be like pea gravel. i used 24 grit once and it looked like the wood had been beaten with a chain
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