Brass insert tip

[phil]

Just thought I would share an easy way to insert brass inserts if you choose to go that route.

After trying to use a flat head screw driver and getting about 1 out of 3 inserted without breaking the edges that the screw driver sits in, I looked around the garage and came up with this.

Take a bolt the same size and thread of the insert, just long enough for 2 nuts and a washer with about 1/4" at the bottom to grip the insert. I put the washer in between the two nuts and threaded them onto the bolt.

Then just screw the insert onto the protruding end of the bolt until it's flush to the bottom nut, get out the ratchet and ratchet it in until the washer in the middle is flush with the wood. That puts them at the perfect depth to grip both the spacer and the wood that the spacer is mounted too.


:edit: Alright, pictures added finally. Not to great with the zoom on my phone, but hopefully you can get the idea .
Then you just back the bolt out of the insert!

About 1 in 6 or so times the insert comes out with the bolt, but then you can re insert with a screw driver easily without breaking the edges out. I'm guessing a little lube on the bottom nut might keep this from happening.

I took some picture I'll post shortly.

[loupey]

Wanted to say thanks for the tip! Wish I saw this BEFORE I finished my cabs. I opted for these in a couple places where the screw would have penetrated the spacer and baffle.

[DaveK]

Here's another option for places where a bolt hole through the spacer and baffle is undesirable (top and bottom bolts on Jacks and Omnis mostly). Drill your hole through the spacer and slightly into the baffle. Then sandwich a T or H nut between the spacer and the baffle. When you mount the driver, use a bolt that is just long enough to reach the bottom of the spacer, but not go into the baffle. Be sure to put a bolt in the nut while the PL sets so the threads don't get clogged by the expanding glue.

[LelandCrooks]

I did that many moons ago on T48's Dave as an experiment. The danger with it is if you pull the driver down hard the tee nut will compress the spacer creating a gap and a leak. Much to my chagrin at a shootout. That was with the old all neoprene gasket that Eminence started with, may not be a problem with the hybrid neoprene and cardboard.

[abegnaud]

Hi y'all;

I've used those brass inserts as connectors for bolt on neck of guitar/bass. Much better than a screw, BUT, they are not very sturdy. You can get the same insert in steel. Barely heavier & substantially stronger.
my .$ 02.

A

[phil]

Hi y'all;

I've used those brass inserts as connectors for bolt on neck of guitar/bass. Much better than a screw, BUT, they are not very sturdy. You can get the same insert in steel. Barely heavier & substantially stronger.
my .$ 02.

Very good recommendation. The softness of the brass is what made me have to devise a way to insert without a screw driver, because the spot where the screwdriver sits would break before the insert was seated.

[DaveK]

The danger with it is if you pull the driver down hard the tee nut will compress the spacer creating a gap and a leak.

If I'm understdanding you correctly, wood compression is allowing the tip of the T-nut to be proud of the spacer. This pushes the speaker's gasket out of the way and creates an air gap. Good thing to watch out for!

One solution is to use the non-deluxe T-nuts that have a 3/8" shaft so they stay below the surface of the spacer. Even that may not be necessary on the newer drivers. I did this with DL 2510-IIs. Their gasket already has a hollow spot around the bolt holes so there is room for the T-nut shaft to sit a little proud without hitting anything.

[LelandCrooks]

If I'm understdanding you correctly, wood compression is allowing the tip of the T-nut to be proud of the spacer. This pushes the speaker's gasket out of the way and creates an air gap. Good thing to watch out for!

One solution is to use the non-deluxe T-nuts that have a 3/8" shaft so they stay below the surface of the spacer. Even that may not be necessary on the newer drivers. I did this with DL 2510-IIs. Their gasket already has a hollow spot around the bolt holes so there is room for the T-nut shaft to sit a little proud without hitting anything.

That could happen, but it's not what happened to me. It actually pulled up the bottom of the spacer, creating a gap between the spacer and the baffle, cracking the pl.

I've been evaluating these:


In some applications they are better than hurricanes, because of the smaller lip, or if you need a surface mount. You still have to epoxy them in place. They're also trickier to install. Bill's had them in the plans for while. I used them on my last build for the rear panel on a Jack.

[la malta]

Leland,

I am going to use those for my current t48 build. My thinking is that since it is barbed and not threaded, once it is knocked in there wont be any thread path in the wood for the nut to turn when you tighten the bolt. I'm also going to try using them with just PL first because I'm thinking even though PL doesn't bond to metal well, once the nut is seated the PL will expand around the barbs enhancing the barbs effectiveness and making it difficult for the nut to go anywhere. If its not satisfactory then I will move on to epoxy. But my initial thinking is that it could be more effective than t-nuts or hurricanes.

[LelandCrooks]

I pulled 2 out, out of 12 total using as mounting bolts for a rear panel, and 4 others were loose. Use epoxy.

They're harder to install than a hurricane, I believe. I didn't try to spin one in using a bolt, I didn't think the cast thread would take it. I pressed them in using a big c clamp.

For certain applications they're probably better. Especially for fixing a screwup with a regular tee nut or hurricane.