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djlivex wrote: ↑Sat May 30, 2020 4:56 pm Grant I striped it out its hard epoxy, but the connection is fine, its tight because I used my needle nose pliers and squeezed the connector and it can't be removed with a needle nose pliers its tight on it.

Ok, so if you put your red probe on the "in" red terminal, and the black probe where the inductor is soldered (on the + side), do you get a reading?

Yes Grant there is a reading.

Ok, all that is left is the capacitor.

Can you un solder it on the + side only, move the lead out of the way, and see if the woofer works then via your three way connector and the woofer board?

If you can't un solder it, can you cut it as near as possible to the + wire, then try to see if the woofer works same as above?

Ok Grant I will give you an answer after lunch around 1:30 pm EST Monday cause I have to drive to Palm Beach and stay there until late afternoon tomorrow and its going to be traffic. i will get home at 10 pm tomorrow night. I will answer you then, Monday afternoon thanks. I just fired up the working speaker, even without the back panel its loud from a 100 watt EV amp and rotary DJ mixer only at 2 position and master at 11 o'clock, was playing Georgio Moroder " Midnight Express" movie theme music.My wife says turn it down! Hahahaha

Ok Grant I just cut the positive on the cap there's still no sound on the woofer. Woofer not moving at all. Thanks Im stumped

djlivex wrote: ↑Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:52 pm Ok Grant I just cut the positive on the cap there's still no sound on the woofer. Woofer not moving at all. Thanks Im stumped

Righto.
Can you get a bit of spare wire, bare the ends enough to be able to wrap around a few times.
We’ll see if the inductor is the problem by bypassing it.
Wrap one bare end around where the cap joins the positive wire.
Wrap the others around the positive “in” terminal, hook it up and see if there’s sound through the woofer now...

Sorry Grant no sound coming out of that woofer, I connected the cap Pos that I cut back to Pos wire out to woofer, bypassing the coil inductor completely to in Pos 3 way terminal.

Did you reconnect the cap before trying to bypass the inductor?

Not to derail Grant's stellar efforts and hopefully I don't cloud the issue for anyone. But, here's how I'd go about this.

With the crossover hooked up to the input and content playing, first I'd touch the speaker leads to the crossover inputs and verify that I have signal at that point. Then I'd connect the negative lead from the driver to the negative out on the crossover. Then, using the positive lead from the speaker, I'd probe/make contact at all the junction locations starting with the positive input.

Is there sound at:
1) The positive input
2) At the solder joint on the input side of the Inductor
3) At the solder joint on the output of the Inductor
4) At the solder joint of the Capacitor
5) At the output

Then I'd switch and connect the speaker lead to the positive output on the crossover and probe the negative side in the same way.

With the speakers positive lead connected to the crossover positive output, do I get sound if I put the negative lead on:
1) The negative crossover input
2) At the solder joint of the Capacitor
3) At the output of the crossover


Just how I'd go about it.

If you did those tests and reported back your findings, I'm fairly certain we can isolate the issue fairly easily.

Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Tue Jun 02, 2020 1:58 pm Did you reconnect the cap before trying to bypass the inductor?

Yes Grant I did I cut the line from inductor to cap wire on positive side then I connect the cap wire back to positive temporarily. I then connect a 20" wire with cap out to positive line to positive pin 3 way terminal, thereby bypassing the whole inductor coil. Still no sound on 12". Thanks

Ok, I want the cap not in the circuit.
I want to know the inductor is working, or not.
So disconnect the capacitor again, and put the temporary wire in like I asked before, from + "in" on board, to the other side of the inductor on the + side.
And power it with the lead you've already made up from your 3 way doovie to the "in" terminal on the woofer board, and see if you get any sound then...

So you want me to leave the Neg input > Cap Side > Neg Out (Top) > woofer Neg as shown on the drawing above? Then with the spare 20" wire Pos tap out back to the 3 way 12" in pin Bass then power up the system and see if I get music out of the 12"? Wouldn't that short out the amp? Step #2

Don't do what you said above, other than leaving the negative side of the board as you've shown in "2".

Ok, lets try again.
Using the circuit marked number 2 in your drawing above.
Hook up the board from your 3 way connectors like it's working (but just for the woofer board for now).
Disconnect the cap as you have shown in diagram 2. Those gaps are good.

Get a new, short piece of wire, and bare both ends and take it directly from +in to + out on the woofer board.
Connect your amp.
Play something.
If the woofer works now,
Turn everything off for a moment, take the added wire away from + in, and now attach it to the end of the inductor in the middle of the board.
Still leave the cap out of the circuit. Power back on.
If the woofer still works when you've done that, you need a new capacitor...

Sorry late reply just got home errands with the wifey. LOL
Ok I did follow as above no joy only the mid and highs are running, the woofer either position of the spare wire did not produce any sound. I also connected the 9V battery with input wire Pos/Neg Terminal of the 12" out, using spare wire both Pos/Neg produce a movement and sound on woofer so Yes the woofer is not the problem. Is there any other way to test Cap and Inductor via meter? And what setting should it be in. Thanks Grant!

It just seems highly unusual that two faulty components ended up on 1 board.

I want you to try 2 things.
Disconnect the mid board from the 3 way thingy, and hook the woofer board to that lug, see if that works.

Undo the screw on the + "in" side of the woofer board and show a nice, close, in focus, pic of this end of the inductor.