BillFitzmaurice.info

I'd just pump out the PL and let it do it's magic. PL can safely bridge a 3/8 gap.

I saw the same thing that Alien is talking about, but he beat me to the reply........................... your internal panel edges aren't straight and level with the outer cab edges!!!

David Sample wrote:I saw the same thing that Alien is talking about, but he beat me to the reply........................... your internal panel edges aren't straight and level with the outer cab edges!!!

I did that with the belt sander and it looks wayyyy worse in the picture. I have alleviated that a bit.

Thank you.

Breaking in the speaker...

I received two different gasket foam rolls.

Which one is for the access panel?

one is more grey and the other is black.

I'd definitely use the one on the right. Much denser and less likely to leak air. The roll on the right looks like the stuff I used. I've had no leaks.

Thanks Spoon....

So I installed the woofer and then the access panel. I moved my mixer, amp and laptop to the garage. I connected everything and then turned up the volume slowly.

I was very impressed with the amount of sound the box produced....wow. Wow.

For three days now, I have been breaking in the speaker with it resting in a cardboard box that has allowed it to make a little bit of noise. I was running about 8V to it. I turned down the gain on my mixer to test out the box and I thought something had moved because no way was this less than 8v. I checked the multimeter and it said 4.4 V.

I couldn't believe it. It was loud.

I'm using a crown 802 Amp which has no crossover so the only thing I can run is a test tone generator off the laptop. So I ran some tones and then ran a sweep from 50hz-90hz and the garage went crazy.

So far, I am extremely happy with the performance. I will shoot some video and pictures tomorrow.

Your getting me excited, my build is almost done, just need to do the side panel and wait for my damn speakon connector to get here.

I took the subwoofer to my friend's music store today after work.

We hooked it up to a Crest 2600 which has a 150hz crossover (not an optimal crossover point) and a 30hz and below cut off. This Crest has two channels which each power an 18" JBL sub.

http://www.jblpro.com/catalog/general/P ... d=89&MId=3

I unplugged one of the 18" and connected my Titan. The employees were very impressed and were almost questioning if it really was only a 12" in the Titan.

We then turned the Titan down and turned up the 18" JBL and compared the two. The Titan kept up with the JBL and many of the employees said it was louder and tighter than the JBL.

The positioning of the Titan was not optimal. I had it standing up and in the wrong place in the room, but it still sounded good.

The subwoofer was getting in the area of 20-27 volts. I wasn't sure if this was too much so I definitely didn't want to push it any further than that. It was performing very well with 10-15 volts so I kept it more in that range.

It was very fun and so I forgot to shoot some video. However, I shot some video with my camera phone last night and the microphone is not good so I'm going to need a better camera to produce a decent video.

haha this is brilliant spec talk from that jbl link...

The rugged enclosure is constructed from 19 mm (.75 in) MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) using advanced adhesives and mechanical fastener technology for durability and improved low-frequency performance. The enclosure is covered in black carpet.

Advanced Mechanical Fastener Technology!!!! i want me some of thAT! oh, wait, its nailed together...

And not to rain on you parade or anything, but that jbl is one step up from the 15" nady "subwoofer" that I got for $90 online.

SeisTres wrote:And not to rain on you parade or anything, but that jbl is one step up from the 15" nady "subwoofer" that I got for $90 online.

I wanted the T39 to blow it away but it also was not set up properly at all.

In the plans, there is a section that cleary states how important crossover points are and to use good equipment in order to do that. I had neither.

Also....15-20 Volts is less than half of what it can handle.

RENDOG wrote:

SeisTres wrote:And not to rain on you parade or anything, but that jbl is one step up from the 15" nady "subwoofer" that I got for $90 online.

I wanted the T39 to blow it away but it also was not set up properly at all.

In the plans, there is a section that cleary states how important crossover points are and to use good equipment in order to do that. I had neither.

To my ears, all the horns subs i've built so far sound rather unimpressive and dead when running by themselves as opposed to direct radiators which still sound very much to what we're used to hearing from subs. However, integrate them into a properly tuned system and the horns, IMO, win hands down. You'll be surprised how soft the bass will be when your tops are screaming.

So unless you're running measurements and graphs, wait for hearing them in the full system to really compare them. Granted, it will take a lot of playing around with eq and parameters to really get them to sing since the usual "raising the kick in the 60hz region" will just give you mud but no kick

But yes, get the right equipment, set them up properly and enjoy.

I read a pretty long thread about which primer to use and really didn't get a good answer from it.

I'm going to use Duratex and would like to know what to use as primer.

Also, what sandpaper do I use (grit)?

Use a flat black latex paint for the joints/PL, a rattle can will do, for use as a primer. Duratex won't stick to PL.