BillFitzmaurice.info

I got my REW program out for some other things but figured I would run a sweep on my system. 1/12 smoothing. I was playing with my laptop and ran this loop through my apple play into my tv then through my receiver. I ran an rca straight through the receiver and the only difference was that apple play/Bluetooth cut past 6-8khz.

I have a nasty hole at 42hz son of a bass trap!!!

Pics to show my wife’s efforts to clutter/decor the shelves just like we planned for her to!

Where did you take the measurement from?
Did you try it at each seat to find the best one?

Is the LP tight to the back wall? A dip at 42Hz would be caused if it's about 6.5 feet out.

I only took the one measurement and I took it from where I typically sit, front and center. What do you mean by LP? I am drawing a blank.

Listening position.

8ft from the wall on the left, 12ft from the tv wall. Listening position, man I racked my brain on that one, silly me.

How far from the wall behind you?

Rear wall is about 16-18ft, ceiling is about 12ft high, the wall on the right is complicated

Take a measurement with the mic less than 2 feet from the rear wall. If the dip goes away you found the cause. Also, set the resolution to 1/6 octave. You can't hear better than that, so there's no point chasing response better than that.

Update on this after some quality time listening and tweaking. For the first little while I had been pulling sound form the tv through a 3.5mm jack out the back feeding into my old audio receiver. I was not impressed initially with how it all sounded. I picked up a fiber optic audio cable and ran that from the tv down and then let the receiver run in auto detect where it switches from Dolby and the other various digital formats according to what the tv puts out. Once I did this the sound quality went way up. after some minor tuning to the channel levels and a few clicks on the sub and the bass/treble I have it sounding amazing. This rig is very near the best sounding home stereo I have ever heard. The only thing I have heard that was better was Radian's quad set of La Scalas and a THT on a very high-tech Yamaha receiver. My kids hate watching movies at friends' houses and my ex-wife is fighting hard to keep the entertainment center as she also really likes the sound it makes. Since I seem to be losing the entertainment system, I need to start gearing up to build another system for myself.

I am slowly going to undergo building myself a new home theater system and wanted to post up here for support and feedback. There is a seemingly fitting driver on Partsexpress.com right now as a buyout that I may procure for this effort.
https://www.parts-express.com/CWE-125B2 ... quantity=1
Buy 20 units and they are $4.00each, not bad at an Fs-95.5, Qts-0.71, Xmax-2mm and OD-4.5in these should work just fine, I think.
I see no reason not to use the recommended Goldwood tweeter as it remains the cheapest on Partsexpress.com.
I have an MCM8" driver available for a TableTuba

What I will need that will be pricy is an amplifier/receiver for the system. I wish that a company would produce a quality 2.1 receiver where the sub amp is internal with the rest of the electronics. Does anyone have any suggestions on the most economical way to satisfy a 2.1 rig with two tlah cabs and a tabletuba?

Partsexpress has this guy at $90.00, but I am certain it will not do me justice:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Au ... quantity=1

A step up would be these in conjunction:
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Au ... quantity=1
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Au ... quantity=1
Problem here is that we are nearing the $400.00 mark and the reviews say that the fiber-optic circuit is low quality with this unit.

Just looking over Partsexpress.com there is a Yamaha receiver that I fancy at $350.00:
https://www.parts-express.com/Yamaha-RX ... quantity=1
I guess I could let myself grow into this, or something like this but I still need a subwoofer amplifier which will cost $200.00ish. I wish I could get hifi amplification for a simple 2.1 rig with quality DSP for $400.00 in one box but I just do not see it out there! Any ideas?

ACUA wrote: ↑Fri Jan 26, 2024 1:09 am I had been pulling sound form the tv through a 3.5mm jack out the back feeding into my old audio receiver. I picked up a fiber optic audio cable and ran that from the tv down and then let the receiver run in auto detect where it switches from Dolby and the other various digital formats according to what the tv puts out. Once I did this the sound quality went way up.

I'm not surprised. I've used a light pipe from my TV to my receiver since I first had a TV and receiver both capable of it. An added benefit to doing so even over HDMI is you can't get a ground loop because the light pipe has no ground connection.
IMO your best bet is a 5.1 receiver and sub plate amp. You don't need a crazy expensive receiver. I have a Sony STR-DH550 and a 75 watt Dayton plate amp. What's really needed, and I used to have 20 years ago, is a receiver with a built in sub amp. They went away when powered subs took over the market. Mine was a 7.1 that could repurpose two of the surround channel amps, bridging them to power a passive sub. Something like that may still exist.

I don't really follow home theater tech, so I don't know what the latest greatest is. But, a while back I did a little online shopping/comparing of A/V Receivers as a gift for a cousin of mine and made some notes about the 5.2 Sony STRDH-590, of which there are currently a few open box deals on Amazon for under $200.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KKQ573F/r ... dg_tit_rfb

The “renewed” model is still available for $220!
That may be a good one!

Renewed is what they call an item that was returned. Where electronics are concerned the usual reason they get returned is the buyer couldn't figure out how to use it. This is the updated version of what I have, so I can recommend it. I can also guess why it was returned. You can't set it up without connecting it to a TV via HDMI, so you can see the menu options on the TV screen. I have mine connected to a spare HDMI input. If you don't have a spare HDMI temporarily connect it to an input that you normally use for something else, like a DVD player, to do the setup, when you're done reconnect the other device.