Pair of WH6 Lites build

[Seth]

AHHHHHHH!!! I can't find my stash of NL4 Jacks!!!!

Ordered a handful from PE that should be here in the next week. Project on pause until then. I could move forward and just put them in later. But, I'm gonna wait so I can get the inside painted before I button it up.

Maybe, I'll work on the melded array's in the meantime. Been putting those off due to slight intimidation of not having done them before. My dad always says, that his dad always said, "nothing to it but to do it". So, yeah... guess that's what I'll do then.

[AntonZ]

No worries Seth, even I did melded arrays and they came out just fine.

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Before I made the first one no one had ever done them before. At least you've got plans to go by.

[AntonZ]

Assuming you use some kind of table saw: make a simple jig to hold them on a sliding jig, keeps the fingers safe and makes for repeatable cuts.

[Seth]

Assuming you use some kind of table saw: make a simple jig to hold them on a sliding jig, keeps the fingers safe and makes for repeatable cuts.

Yeah, that's part of it. I haven't made a sled yet either and I'm considering making one on the fly that just uses the rip fence instead of the (coped) channels in the table saw. A little timid about that. I want them (the pieces) to be "perfect".

[Tom Smit]

Seth, it would be better to use the mitre slot. If you are just using the fence for the sled, there is the possibility that the sled gets narrower each time you set the fence (later in the day, the following day, the following week......)

[Seth]

Thanks guys. Tom, I think you're right. That's what I'll do. I think, instead of dado-ing the guide strips that fit into the mitre slot to accommodate the tabs my table has in the slots, I'll just grind the tabs in the slot off. Seems the easiest solution. Doesn't seem to be any real good reason for those tabs, that I can see anyway.

Another little thing that has put the kabash on the projects progress... the storage unit I use for my projects is under new ownership and they are quite adamant that I do not use any electricity without paying a $50 monthly electricity fee. Which is a pretty absurd price, given I probably only use a dollar or two a month in electricity. Anyway, I've got an inverter on the way along with 1/0 AWG welding wire and all the fittings and connectors on the way to solve that little stinky pile of doodoo.

I had hoped to be able to present these to my dad for Christmas, but the project most likely wont resume until early next year... maybe a little sooner.

[CarterKraft]

Assuming you use some kind of table saw: make a simple jig to hold them on a sliding jig, keeps the fingers safe and makes for repeatable cuts.

Yeah, that's part of it. I haven't made a sled yet either and I'm considering making one on the fly that just uses the rip fence instead of the (coped) channels in the table saw. A little timid about that. I want them (the pieces) to be "perfect".

I am in the same boat. I bought a Delta T6 saw fence and it totally transformed my old "113" series craftsman saw.

I want to make the awesome "saw sled" aka Panel jig but I have not gotten to it yet. Every time I make a sketchy cut with the miter gauge I wish I had already built the sled.

The most attractive thing about the saw sled is the ability to precisely tune the rear push fence for 100% square cuts by the "5 cut method".
Secondly being able to push parts through the spinning blade while they are perfectly stationary sounds great too.

[Bruce Weldy]

I want to make the awesome "saw sled" aka Panel jig but I have not gotten to it yet. Every time I make a sketchy cut with the miter gauge I wish I had already built the sled.

The most attractive thing about the saw sled is the ability to precisely tune the rear push fence for 100% square cuts by the "5 cut method".
Secondly being able to push parts through the spinning blade while they are perfectly stationary sounds great too.

I built mine several years ago. But, I went with two rails in the slots. Harder to build, but more accurate and it never wants to rack. Only thing I wish I'd done was make it deeper. It will only do up to about 18 inches. I used MDF for the bed and Red Oak for the front fence, the back fence and the runners.

[CarterKraft]

That's what I am going to do. I have a 36" piece of 2"x4" UHMW to make the runners I just haven't had the gumption to start on that project.

I want the T slot in the back fence for a stop block and PLENTY big enough to not regret making it too small.

I have some 1.5" plywood that might make a good back fence but I don't have any hardwood if the plywood doesn't clean up.

[Seth]

I think, for piezo trimming duty, I'm going to try utilizing one of the miter slots and see if I can get it tight enough to not rack much/at all, yet loose enough to slide smoothly. And make it reversible so that it's always on the right side of the blade (I'm right handed). One orientation for trimming the edges off, then turn it 180º and have the other edge for making the 45º end cuts. I suppose, no matter what, the 45º cuts would have to be made from the right side of the blade anyway, since the blade tilts over to the left for angled cuts.

Envisioning it, it could be made somewhat compact as a Piezo trimming only tool/implement. Pretty sure I bought a piece of oak for this purpose (to slide in the slot) some time ago. I'll have to find it/dig it out of the scrap pile.

[Tom Smit]

I get it, about the delay to make a sled that utilizes the mitre slot. It:s making the runner fit correctly that is the hangup. However, once you get that runner made, and then the sled made, you will really appreciate it.

[AntonZ]

My table saw is cheap and small. I made two miniature versions of the panel jig for the piezo's. They are smaller than the surface of the saw table. One for the 90 degree cuts, the other for the 45 degree cuts. They were easy to make and work well.

I haven't cut piezo's for 10 years, still have the jigs because they also come in handy for cutting small pieces of wood every now and then. Without a jig like this small pieces just cannot be cut safely on a table.

[Seth]

All my inverter stuff, along with the NL4 jacks I was waiting on, came in yesterday. I'll spend a little time over there this weekend soldering and assembling the 1/0 AWG cabling with ring terminals, quick disconnects, and a 250 amp circuit breaker... and test to see if the 1500 watt inverter I got is enough to power up the table saw or not. I tried it on a 750 watt inverter that I already had on hand, and it would go into protect mode on the saw's startup. But, if I turned the saw on and off, and on and off, again and again, and slowly walk it up to speed, it would stay on and cut wood. So, hoping the 1500watt inverter will be enough to start the saw without having to finesse it up to speed every time I want to use it.

If all that goes as planned, I'll also make a little headway on the WH6's before heading out of town for the holidays.

Anton,

Thanks for sharing your experience. I think that's exactly what I'll do.

[CarterKraft]

FYI a inverter generator might be perfect for you.
I have the 3500 for camping and it is very useful around the house, the 2000 even more so.

https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-watt ... q=predator