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I just checked and my bucket of duratex is roller grade. It's pretty thick, but still easy to paint on with a brush. I don't paint it on neatly, just make sure the surface is fully coated. Then hitting it with the roller smooths it all out and makes it look nice an uniform. When I do cabinets I'll try and get a few pictures of the process.

I was a fan of using the textured rollers until I tried spraying on the 'roller grade' with a drywall texture spray gun. I love the finish that results from that!
I still paint the cabs first with cheap black latex, though.

Family of backs all done ..

Quick continuity question. I checked my connections after soldering and attaching to make sure they were good. All okay jack to jack, and jack to x-ver. Then I checked the LP and HP outputs from the x-over. Both + and - to the HP have continuity with the input -, and no continuity with the input +. Is that right? I'm pretty sure I built everything per the plans, but that has me wondering. Any advice appreciated...

Your wording is confusing, but if you're saying you can't read any output from the high pass filter that's a good thing. Your meter uses DC to measure continuity, capacitors don't pass DC.

Thanks Bill, I knew it would be different measuring an electronic circuit vs. just an electrical circuit, just wasn't sure how.
Got my grills cut out and painted. Glued in the strips to back the grills. Also glued in the (super ugly) foam woofer spacer things. First coat of duratex is on the cabs as well. I tried painting the duratex on without primer on a couple sides. Definitely works better and uses less to prime first with flat black paint. Closer and closer...

Another baby step. Worked on fitting the grills and figuring out how to attach them. I had to cut some little backing squares and glue them in behind the sheaths in order to have something substantial enough to screw into on the edges. I think it should work. I'll let them cure overnight and then have a go at drilling pilots and mounting the grills. If that goes well, then I'm ready to mount the tweeter arrays. I drilled the pilot holes for each array. I soldered on leads with quick connects, with the matching connects on longer leads to reach the x-overs. That way I can easily remove the arrays later if I need to. They are popped through the sheaths and sealed with PL, also curing. Hopefully I can get a bit more done tomorrow. Two weeks until I need them ready to go for our block party...

Moving ahead. Drivers are installed, just put in the foam pieces. I went ahead and put rubber feet on the bottoms of all four too.

Straight array cabs are weighing in at 30 pounds. Melded cabs are a touch over 31.

Straight array cabs are weighing in at 30 pounds. Melded cabs are a touch over 31.

Yay, you're done!
Have you had a chance to listen to them yet?

himhimself wrote: ↑Sun Jun 23, 2019 2:40 pm Straight array cabs are weighing in at 30 pounds. Melded cabs are a touch over 31.

Very nice job. Congrats

Almost done. Letting the glue on the foam dry so I'm sure it will stay in place. Then I'll be able to screw on the backs. The gasket tape is already in place and all pilot holes drilled. Gotta head over to a fish fry now, so it's going to have to wait a bit longer. It's already been 9 months, so what's another day or two I'll definitely get a review up as soon as I can power them up and have a listen.

Sooooo close! It's been quite a ride so far, huh?

They're alive!! Got the backs on and just had a chance to do a quick op check. Didn't have much time, so I simply hooked them up one at a time to one channel of the stereo in the living room with no EQ. One thing is immediately clear - they are super efficient. With a decent Sony bookshelf speaker on the other channel (and a crummy powered sub), I had to back off the Otop 14db from the receiver to get the two at about the same loudness. Can't wait to get them hooked up to my "real" system with the T30s and dial them in. Ready for the block party with a week to spare!!! Maybe I'll work on the array brackets, as well as finishing up a breakout panel I started so I can bridge my sub amp and get them a full 50v.