Titan 39 20" Wide 12" Sub Build (Completed)

[Tom Smit]

If you want to install a pigtail on each terminal for ease of install, you can(total of four pigtails).

All the positives hook together (terminals of each connector, and woofer)...all negatives hook together (same thing again).
You don't need to use the 2+ and 2- as they are typically used to send a different signal.

[RENDOG]

So 1+ to the 1+ of the second connector. Then, 1- to the 1- of the second connector?

[Tom Smit]

Yes.

[RENDOG]

Thank you very much Tom.

[RENDOG]

Pictures of my progress.

[RENDOG]

Looking at another thread just now, I noticed that the last braces I cut were supposed to have big square openings not swiss cheese holes.

No wonder it didn't look right.

[Harley]

Looking at another thread just now, I noticed that the last braces I cut were supposed to have big square openings not swiss cheese holes.

No wonder it didn't look right.

It really doesn't matter. Swiss cheese ( 'bung'ole ) is fine by me...just takes a little longer

[jswingchun]

Looking at another thread just now, I noticed that the last braces I cut were supposed to have big square openings not swiss cheese holes.

No wonder it didn't look right.

It really doesn't matter. Swiss cheese ( 'bung'ole ) is fine by me...just takes a little longer

That's funny, I saw the pictures and was going to comment on how much extra work that would be. I hate drilling those holes.

Your build looks good. I really enjoyed building my T39s. Probably my favorite cab to build out of all the cabs I have made. The only part I didn't like was making the access door fit without leaks.

[RENDOG]

thanks jswingchun.

I'm trying to finish without rushing. I also have to finish the access door.

[RENDOG]

All panels, except the front one, are level.

How do I correct this?

[el_ingeniero]

2 things you can do:

1) glue up as is with gobs of PL and stuff bondo where any gaps remain.
2) Sand down the widest panels until everything lines up, then glue up.

You'll probably be doing both. But don't just do one or the other. Get a clear idea of which panels are tall and which are short. Use a tape measure or metal ruler, measure the top and bottom of every panel on both sides. Write it all down and look at it until you understand whats going on. Then you can make a plan.

The most important thing is to make sure the driver chamber is 100% airtight or you will kill your driver. So you will definitely want to use extra glue on those panels. Remember to use some PL to seal the hole where the wire from the jack enters the speaker chamber too.

By the way, your swiss cheese panels on the last set of braces are kind of neat. Too bad no one but us will ever know.

[bzb]

Sand the panels some, but don't go overboard. Clamps and screws will pull everything together until the PL sets and expands to fill the gaps.

[Alien]

The panel on the left (by 19" on the rule) looks like it curves down towards the camera. If it does, maybe that's where some of your gap's coming from. Maybe sand/plane that panel down a bit?

A

[Chris_Allen]

Secure a small piece of ply, maybe 3/4 wide, down the inside of the lowered outside panel so that the top piece is flush.

The reduction in internal volume will have no effect. When gluing the face on, fill the gap with a bead of PL and fill the surface gap with filler afterwards, you can even screw it.

Sanding it will cause undulations and forcing the top panel will cause curving.

A box is always happier when it's square.

BTW, I love your approach to the organisation of your garage - I use exactly the same technique.

[DanielNY]

Secure a small piece of ply, maybe 3/4 wide, down the inside of the lowered outside panel so that the top piece is flush...

Great idea!!

You could also rip a filler piece and just PL in place and let set, then sand down as needed...