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Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 4:52 pm
by Joman116
Started using PL adhesive to secure the retaining blocks on the baffle. For some reason I decided to make it more difficult for myself and use clamps instead of drywall screws to temporary hold them together. I did four of them for now, I'll use drywall screws for the remaining four. The finished t60 will be using recex screws in this area, as recommended by Leland from speaker hardware.
Yep everyone was right this PL premium adhesive is very Goopy. Need to make sure my work area is clear.
Below I put a picture of how I'm trying to save the pl premium. I recall that Seth recommended putting a nail in and then wrapping it with aluminum foil. After I install all of the retaining blocks I'll be away for 2 weeks so I need to make sure the pl premium is good when I return.
1000115714.jpg
1000115713.jpg
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 6:03 pm
by Seth
You're probably going to want to use something a little more air tight than foil. I usually cut off a finger from a disposable glove and wrap it tightly with masking tape. But there's a few methods people use that seem to work. If you stick with the tin foil and nail, let us know how it fares.
Hope you enjoy yourself, wherever you're headed for the next couple weeks!
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:08 pm
by Joman116
Seth wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 6:03 pm
You're probably going to want to use something a little more air tight than foil. I usually cut off a finger from a disposable glove and wrap it tightly with masking tape. But there's a few methods people use that seem to work. If you stick with the tin foil and nail, let us know how it fares.
Hope you enjoy yourself, wherever you're headed for the next couple weeks!
You don't need to tell me twice, better be safe than sorry!
So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away. I don't have a proper method to use a clamp to keep both pieces together and then drive the screw. I believe the purpose of the screw is just to keep the two pieces static. I'm just going to continue with the clamp only method and so far appears to be working. I plan on wrapping up the retention blocks tomorrow.
1000115732.jpg
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:14 pm
by Tom Smit
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:08 pm
So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.
Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:58 pm
by Joman116
Tom Smit wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:14 pm
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:08 pm
So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.
Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.
Predrill a pilot hole in the block as well?
Didn't think of that...will attempt that tomorrow.
But I mean, using just clamps is ok, isn't it? I ensure the orientation is OK..
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 10:00 pm
by Marflinger
Tom Smit wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:14 pm
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:08 pm
So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.
Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.
One <ddition to this, happened here: take the screws out when pl is set after 2 hours or so.
I left mine in until cab was finished, and i bsheared off the heads from some of them when i tried to remove them. The pl grabs quite good when it is fully set after a few days...
(I had very tiny screws, bigger ones may be fine)
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:58 pm
Tom Smit wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:14 pm
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:08 pm
So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.
Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.
Predrill a pilot hole in the block as well?
Didn't think of that...will attempt that tomorrow.
But I mean, using just clamps is ok, isn't it? I ensure the orientation is OK..
Clamps are fine as well.
just slippery situation.
Predrilling only the baffle, not the block
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 10:38 pm
by Joman116
Marflinger wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 10:00 pm
Tom Smit wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:14 pm
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:08 pm
So I attempted to secure the other retention blocks with a drywall screw but there was no proper way to drive the screw through cuz it would just push the block away.
Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.
One <ddition to this, happened here: take the screws out when pl is set after 2 hours or so.
I left mine in until cab was finished, and i bsheared off the heads from some of them when i tried to remove them. The pl grabs quite good when it is fully set after a few days...
(I had very tiny screws, bigger ones may be fine)
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:58 pm
Tom Smit wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 9:14 pm
Try to install the blocks with screws (pre-drilled holes before installing the screws), then, remove screws until just the point sticks out. Apply the PL to the block, locate the block to the screw points, and drive in the screws.
Predrill a pilot hole in the block as well?
Didn't think of that...will attempt that tomorrow.
But I mean, using just clamps is ok, isn't it? I ensure the orientation is OK..
Clamps are fine as well.
just slippery situation.
Predrilling only the baffle, not the block
I appreciate the input. Was able to deal with the slipperiness and get them a line accordingly. Below picture looking bottom up for your pleasure
1000115733.jpg
Re: First BFM Build Odyssey: Tuba 60
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2026 10:46 pm
by Marflinger
Joman116 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 10:38 pm
I appreciate the input. Was able to deal with the slipperiness and get them a line accordingly. Below picture looking bottom up for your pleasure 😂
Looking good :)
I did the last baffle just putting all the blocks on it, and then placing a lot of weight above it with a wider panel. So not single clamping, just pressing all at once down.
A bit tricky to get all the blocks in the right orientation, but sufficient as the blocks will be pulled when driver is mounted, so the force is not fighting against the glue part later. It is just the fixing of the orientation for later, and to avoid the screw pushing it away when mounting the driver.