BillFitzmaurice.info

Well, #1 my brand new Weller 9400PKS soldering tip broke after 10 minutes.
#2 I’m concerned about the leads breaking if I untwist em.

If they need to be stripped of enamel and they break when you untwist them unwind enough from them to connect them again, after stripping the ends. It's not going to significantly affect the value.

Thanks Bill!

Well, borrowed an iron from the Tech guys at work, was able to finish them out, here they are for better or for worse. Last time I touched a soldering iron was about 15 years ago, please excuse the messy looking welds.

I still use lead solder for electrical work. I don't drink water that's passed through wire.
Someone who does a lot of soldering would want to avoid lead solder, but someone who does a speaker every now and then probably need not be concerned.

I wanted to use leaded solder, every store I asked for it sent me to the plumbing section........I miss the Old Radio Shack.

The big question is do they look like they will work?

TXATC wrote: ↑Sat Jul 20, 2019 2:04 pm The big question is do they look like they will work?

Kinda' like asking, "Can you hear if my shirt and pants match?"

Without much more detailed pics - you'll have to just hook 'em up and listen.

But, I'm guessing they are fine....

So with that being said. This being my first foray into DIY speakers, what will I be looking(listening) for when I hook them up? Is that the test tone the plans talk about?
I would assume that I will have to run a sweep to test where the frequencies cross from one to the other? Or am I way off?

About the connections on the filters, it's difficult to really tell since the photo detail is lacking a bit, even if I zoom in. Carefully look at each solder joint to see if it has flowed smoothly (good) or if there is a distinct ridge all the way around the solder (bad).

I had a response all typed out last night but I must have made a mistake and didn't post it. In it, I had mentioned that a hot iron is much preferred over a soldering gun.....and you found out why.

Just a soldering tip: I pre-tin my iron and wire before I soldering them together. Makes for a faster, easier, and rock solid connection.

There's tons of videos online to learn from. You'll be a pro by the time you've finished wiring all those SLA's

jimbo7 wrote: ↑Sun Jul 21, 2019 9:24 am Just a soldering tip: I pre-tin my iron and wire before I soldering them together. Makes for a faster, easier, and rock solid connection.

There's tons of videos online to learn from. You'll be a pro by the time you've finished wiring all those SLA's

You could even try the sticky here in the forum:
viewtopic.php?f=14&t=19250

Thanks guys, I checked the welds, they all definitely look like the just flowed around and down the wires. I think they should be good. I’m off to sand down the primer and slap on some of the Satan’s Heart Satin Black paint on em.

I’m getting anxious. This is always the worst part of a project. Close enough to see the end and want it done, yet at a crucial point where cutting corners can set you back 3-4 steps. Lord give me patience.

Got em sanded down and painted. Man it gets warm in that Texas garage!

Sanded them down with 320 grit to get them slick. I then wiped them down with DA (after turning off my fan of course)
Next I poured out the paint (Valspar Ultra Satin Black) started rolling with a 6 inch foam weenie roller. First coat was super light, 120 minutes later I was able to recoat. This is the end product. Just finished painting them when pics were taken. I’ll post more in the morning after they’ve dried some.

Looking good. And Amen to the Texas heat.....I have to stay right in front of my fan or start immediately sweating....

Painted up and dry. I moved them into the house and started loading drivers into them. Surrounds are done and hung, now for L,C,R.
Pics of the L&R sans wiring. The finish didn’t turn out perfect, but it’s good enough for a dark room. I’ll have to spend at least twice the amount of time finishing when I do the THTLP.