BillFitzmaurice.info

I ended up going with Parts express. Tax, and shipping are what made it cheaper to go that way. I would have preferred to go speakerhardware.com because it is in Kansas and I like to support local if possible. It just worked out that I was able to get the money and have the shipping from Parts-express be free.

My dad and I were able to get started on the subwoofers today. We cut all the rough sizes and were able to get most of them glued and screwed together. The screwing was only to help keep the parts from squirting around on us while placing the braces and making sure we had enough squeeze out. I'll have pictures posted soon. We did end up going with 24 inch internals to maximize the use of the wood that we already had, and to make it more easily used indoors.

Amazingly we didn't even use a full tube of the PL. We had plenty of squeeze out all over the place and required some clean up but all in all, had we not had to deal with the paint shop's heater not working, we would have gotten a bit farther today. We are going to work on them some more tomorrow. We decided not to put any wheels on them because I can get a really nice hand dolly for the same price as getting all of the subs outfitted with wheels, and this also stops any possible future rattles. As for handles, we are still trying to decided whether or not to cut hand holds behind brace 9. This only being because the hand dolly would be able to carry them and would take away the need for them almost entirely. We were also wondering if putting rubber feet on the bottom and side of the subwoofer would be any hinderance to its performance in the future. The goal of the rubber feet would be to make it easier for lifting with the hand dolly, to also keep the finish of the subs unblemished, and to finally keep the sub from walking around from all from the vibrations. What are your guy's input?

I am really looking forward to hearing these things. I have a gig lined up on the 18th of January in which the band playing has been excited to hear these things as well.

Go ahead an put feet on the side and bottom. You going with square back or 45 cuttof back?

Square back. Made for putting everything together much easier.

btw, here is the pictures I ment to put up earlier.

https://www.facebook.com/braden.bruntze ... 099&type=3

Wow, a lot of progress!

I think that putting hand-holds in is a good idea, to help with loading, stacking, and storage. The more hand-holds, the better.

Tom Smit wrote:Wow, a lot of progress!

I think that putting hand-holds in is a good idea, to help with loading, stacking, and storage. The more hand-holds, the better.

Big X2. BTW, that "pic link" takes me to your FB page....but no pics.

Should work now. Forgot to make that album public.

bradn7 wrote:Should work now. Forgot to make that album public.

Friend request sent. See your messages.

To start off, just an update. The cabinets are fully assembled and are in the paint shop having the edges and screw holes filled in with bondo. Tomorrow I will take a sander to it and smooth out all of it. And then to paint them with truck liner, install the speaker, connect the wires and test it out. Of course I'll need to break in the speakers before installing them.

Had one question though. Has anyone though about putting the neutrik plugs on the front access panel? One on either side of the speaker? I was thinking the benefit of stacking would put the cables within inches of each other instead of feet.

Some interesting tricks that he had used to speed up production was labeling all the panels as we cut out the rough sizes with A4 labels. Having those saved so much time searching for a scribble written on each one. They had a big black number staring us in the face the whole way through. Another trick he used was when cutting out the braces. He would mark out the slope on the part and then taking a longer and wider piece would screw the brace to this larger piece along that line. It was very similar to a previous system I had seen on this forum. I can't remember where I saw it though.

Lastly I want to acknowledge a complement from my father about the plans. He was absolutely amazed at how well they were laid out, how precise all the measurements were and that Bill had done a fantastic job on them.

the only downside with front facing speakons is that in the event you have to setup the subs in a non ideal fashion (stagefront, facing audience), they will be exposed to idle (drunk) hands.

Here is the link to my facebook album. It should have all the pictures up to date on them.

https://www.facebook.com/braden.bruntze ... 099&type=3

Got them coated with paint. Man that stuff stinks. Glad I had a mask and good ventilation at the shop. Just waiting on the speakers to come in yet. FedEx had to delay the delivery a couple days. Weather issues I guess. Then to break them in, and throw them into the cabinet. Can't wait.

bradn7 wrote:Just waiting on the speakers to come in yet. FedEx had to delay the delivery a couple days. Weather issues I guess. Then to break them in, and throw them into the cabinet. Can't wait.

Does it not say in your plans to check the driver frame clears the baffle hole(s)?
It's a PITA to adjust your baffle hole once the cab is built.
I hope it doesn't become a problem for you.

Just so you know, if there is a next time, it's always recommended to have drivers on hand prior to commencement of baffle.

Other than that, it looks like a nice build

With the front loaded driver it will be a bit easier to remedy grant

I was wondering why you chose to make your access panel the full width of the cab however. generally with a cab wider than 18" you need to brace the baffle panel via the methods outlined in the plans (requiring 2x Panel 7s to be installed).

sine143 wrote:With the front loaded driver it will be a bit easier to remedy grant

edited post

That was the plan to fit the speakers in first. Unfortunately they were delayed long enough that we continued on to the next few steps. As for access there will be the bracing as per the plans. We found it wouldn't be too difficult to fit them. Luckily I do already have a 15 inch sub that fits the same physical dimensions such as the cut out and the rim and depth. We didn't drill the holes because that is the one thing I am not sure will be the same or different between the two speakers.