BillFitzmaurice.info

This is what I used for the cabs
http://bondo.com/products/bondo-autobod ... t-312.html

And it's held up well. I prefer the "pro" automotive stuff like Rage http://www.evercoat.com/productcategory.aspx?cat=2 which I'd buy if I were building a LOT of cabs. Much easier to work with from mixing through to sanding.

Harley, mixing is one of those things that no matter how much you read the instructions, the more you mix and spread, the better you get.

Of course, in automotive applications, gotta use glazing putty after the filler, but. not needed under Duratex.

It's not rocket science guys.

If the hardener is red and your mix ends up pink, all good. If you missed putting in an umpteenth of hardener, it will just set a tad slower. If you put in an umpteenth to much, it sets faster.

The fact you can put in a bit less and it sets slower can be used to advantage if you have ample time to let it set before sanding.

Similarly, if you need it to go off quickly so you can sand immediately to finish a cab, put in extra hardener...

Grant Bunter wrote:It's not rocket science guys.

If the hardener is red and your mix ends up pink, all good. If you missed putting in an umpteenth of hardener, it will just set a tad slower. If you put in an umpteenth to much, it sets faster.

The fact you can put in a bit less and it sets slower can be used to advantage if you have ample time to let it set before sanding.

Similarly, if you need it to go off quickly so you can sand immediately to finish a cab, put in extra hardener...

No rocket science, just a PITA.... Was hoping to get away from the mixing step, since I have to do it a lot with West Systems epoxy with the RC stuff. Just hate the extra step. Oh well, onward to mixing............

kekani wrote:... the more you mix and spread, the better you get.....

In the last four years, I've gone through almost two one gallon tins fo the stuff and I still get one batch perfect, one batch not so and at odd times, I really cock it up!

You'd think I'd get every batch perfect by now. The problem is that each build takes a different amount of bondy and it still perplexes me trying to work out the exact 50:1 ratio. I know it's not vitally essential, but still, I like to get things just tickity-boo most times.

kekani wrote:I prefer the "pro" automotive stuff like Rage http://www.evercoat.com/productcategory.aspx?cat=2 which I'd buy if I were building a LOT of cabs. Much easier to work with from mixing through to sanding..

Which one would you get - Ultra, Extreme, Gold or Vanilla ?

Harley wrote:

kekani wrote:... the more you mix and spread, the better you get.....

In the last four years, I've gone through almost two one gallon tins fo the stuff and I still get one batch perfect, one batch not so and at odd times, I really cock it up!

You'd think I'd get every batch perfect by now. The problem is that each build takes a different amount of bondy and it still perplexes me trying to work out the exact 50:1 ratio. I know it's not vitally essential, but still, I like to get things just tickity-boo most times.

kekani wrote:I prefer the "pro" automotive stuff like Rage http://www.evercoat.com/productcategory.aspx?cat=2 which I'd buy if I were building a LOT of cabs. Much easier to work with from mixing through to sanding..

Which one would you get - Ultra, Extreme, Gold or Vanilla ?

Honestly, I molded my Harley FXLR frame with vanilla, and I'd do the same again. Vanilla will run circles around Bondo strawberry, imho. Didn't even use a grater, straight to sandpaper.

kekani wrote:Honestly, I molded my Harley FXLR frame with vanilla, and I'd do the same again. Vanilla will run circles around Bondo strawberry, imho. Didn't even use a grater, straight to sandpaper.

Cool, thanks. I'll see if I can get it here.

Fair enough Don...


Harley,
Until you find a replacement, if you're using the same stuff all the time, next time you mix up a goodun, let a reasonable blob of it set, for colour reference.
If you reproduce that colour each time, you're likely to increase the chances of the mix being right...

Grant Bunter wrote:...next time you mix up a goodun, let a reasonable blob of it set, for colour reference.
If you reproduce that colour each time, you're likely to increase the chances of the mix being right...

Great tip Grant, thanks.

Zombie thread revival.

CNC kits for Jack10, 12 and 15 lite are on my site now. Nicely done by Don.

http://www.speakerhardware.com/whatsnew.php

Yay!

Now find a photgrapher and get some pics up as well lol...

I will get finished pictures up, but have been swamped with work They are just flat black sprayed right now, will put up the pics when they get the Duratex treatment...

Did run them real quick in the backyard, aiming towards the mountains, very impressive for the size, to say the least.

Don

Great biuld, not long finished 2 off my own. The output for such a small cab is unreal.
Any chance of you telling me where to get the info on the router?.
Paul.

Seeing the elegant curves of this design, and the fact that there are no staples, I thought to myself "it's a pity to cover that wood".
Do you have to run a bead from the front ? it seems things fit together so well that sealing from the back would be enough.
If it is necessary, one could lay a thin bead from the front, then just sand and oil (I like oiled wood)?
or maybe the bead could be a complementary color, rather than trying to hide it.
The outside could still be duratexed, and I think would add a nice contrast.
Thanks

timcarouge wrote:Seeing the elegant curves of this design, and the fact that there are no staples, I thought to myself "it's a pity to cover that wood".
Do you have to run a bead from the front ? it seems things fit together so well that sealing from the back would be enough.
If it is necessary, one could lay a thin bead from the front, then just sand and oil (I like oiled wood)?
or maybe the bead could be a complementary color, rather than trying to hide it.
The outside could still be duratexed, and I think would add a nice contrast.
Thanks

Hi, Tim. How you finish your build is entirely up to you. If you look, there are some pretty breath-taking finish jobs posted on the forum. You just have to look for them. Hint: the really nice finishes end up on Bill's sales pages!

Grant, are you selling hardware kits with the driver, jacks, etc?