BillFitzmaurice.info

Atilsley wrote: I'll build three or four sturdy wall brackets, plus ceiling supports. Studs I wall are metal frame, so sturdy. I will also be building a ply decorative front panel to cover the whole job.

Ummm...I really don't mean to poop in your cherrios, I promise we are trying to help not razz you but......

In my line of work I see a lot of metal framing, EVERY time there is a known location for cabinets or even TV mounts (a lot lighter than what you got) there is wooden backing put in. Metal studs are great for framing, not so much for mounting stuff to, screws strip extremely easy. Is there a anything behind that wall? If it is fairly open you could drive lags through the wall into wood 2x4s on the far side or all thread and bolts. If that isn't an option you may want to cut out the drywall and add some 2x6+ backers, may be a mess but you should need a nice patch job and it is way better than crushing your gear or persons with a THT. I personally wouldn't trust hanging a tuba from metal studs, even if you use EZ anchors or toggles it will be sketchy at best.

Another couple of hours today.

Additional bracing in and behind chamber still to do...along with mouth braces.

subharmonic wrote:

Atilsley wrote: I'll build three or four sturdy wall brackets, plus ceiling supports. Studs I wall are metal frame, so sturdy. I will also be building a ply decorative front panel to cover the whole job.

Ummm...I really don't mean to poop in your cherrios, I promise we are trying to help not razz you but......

In my line of work I see a lot of metal framing, EVERY time there is a known location for cabinets or even TV mounts (a lot lighter than what you got) there is wooden backing put in. Metal studs are great for framing, not so much for mounting stuff to, screws strip extremely easy. Is there a anything behind that wall? If it is fairly open you could drive lags through the wall into wood 2x4s on the far side or all thread and bolts. If that isn't an option you may want to cut out the drywall and add some 2x6+ backers, may be a mess but you should need a nice patch job and it is way better than crushing your gear or persons with a THT. I personally wouldn't trust hanging a tuba from metal studs, even if you use EZ anchors or toggles it will be sketchy at best.

Thanks mate...yes, this will take some thought. I'll do more than just put anchors in the side wall. Most likely, I will build some solid wood braces into the roof, and dynabolt/coach screw directly into the roof truss.

All this predicated on this sub sounding good in the two-channel audio room....vs the HT room. I'll not have lost anything if the project ends up as a good HT sub.

Kind regards

Atilsley wrote:dynabolt/coach screw

I had to google those, dynabolt came up with what we call a sleeved anchor, that wouldn't assist in this situation unless you have concrete above you. The coach screw aka lag bolt is the way to go.

Very nice... interested to know how much bass you get from a <$200 driver. A friend is asking me about reproducing 20hz for experimental audio production, THT seems like the way to go.
Might have to ask for a listen once it's done

bitSmasher wrote:Very nice... interested to know how much bass you get from a <$200 driver. A friend is asking me about reproducing 20hz for experimental audio production, THT seems like the way to go.
Might have to ask for a listen once it's done

Hi...sure...you're most welcome. I'm at Kellyville.

Some more pics after final glue up tonight.

Hopefully the driver turns up tomorrow....!!

Looking good! I'll bet you're anxious to hear it!

For attaching to the wall you might want to take a look at French Cleats. We used this method for attaching upper cabinets in our kitchen and it holds a lot of plates and glasses.

Here is an example of one. You can also DIY it.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CFAQ8wIwAA#

Regnar wrote:For attaching to the wall you might want to take a look at French Cleats. We used this method for attaching upper cabinets in our kitchen and it holds a lot of plates and glasses.

Here is an example of one. You can also DIY it.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CFAQ8wIwAA#

Thanks regnar...good idea. That would be a good starting point, plus, say, two ceiling brackets into the roof truss.

Well, the magic moment arrived.

Driver delivered today, and I had a day at home (ill).

Driver in, wiring done, small exotic amp box built, RCA piggy backs on, power on, kids to lift unit to test position....and wham!

What a bass.

I could not believe the very first note (first two tracks from Dark Side of the Moon). Just amazing.

I haven't conducted any leak tests yet, though when I ran my Granite Audio Low Bass CD test CD, I could definitively hear leaks around the chamber opening panel.

So, the music tests were wild...with thumping and clear bass. The heart beat from Speak to Me just blew me away. When I re listened to it without the sub, I just laughed. My MASSIVE Klipsch speakers just sounded like a kid hitting paper.

Also, the SB Acoustics driver is excellent...very well made....heavy iron frame.

The Granite Audio test is very good.

I ran test tones from 40Hz downwards.

At 35-40, the house just rumbled enormously.

30-34 started to sound less 'musical' more effects....still with rumble though.

25-29 all sorts of things were going on in my house.

20-24 weird...still good volume (not flat though), but great effects and depth.

This went on until 13Hz...! Not musical...just 'house effects'....

I simply cannot image what a 36 inch THT with a big 15 incher would sound like in my room....

Thanks Bill and friends....fantastic sub.

GREAT!

I'm glad the SB acoustics driver worked out!

Now you need to build another and mount them upright either side of you seats lol.

BassMe wrote:GREAT!

I'm glad the SB acoustics driver worked out!

Now you need to build another and mount them upright either side of you seats lol.

Ha. You can...!

Get the leaks sorted out right away. Leaks stress the driver and could get worse.

Fun times eh!

Gregory East wrote:Get the leaks sorted out right away. Leaks stress the driver and could get worse.

Fun times eh!

Noted, thanks. May use a caulking agent for the chamber cover, despite it having about 25 screws.

So, moved the sub to the dedicated home theatre room.

Now, this is interesting...and I think it will stay here.

Testing a few DVD's...Batman, Avatar etc...just massive.

Will continue to assess over next few days.

BTW, I have no other audio apart from the large TV....and the sub.