Omni 12 2-10?...yup.

[WB]

What would happen

Nothing strange should happen, if that's what you're wondering.

It should work just fine.

[Rug]

Just showing off my progress. Dang, this is fun!

All the cutting has been done with a circular saw. I'm using the guideboard a lot but I built a sled, too, in case I need it. I also bought a cheap brad nailer but haven't had the opportunity to try it out yet. I'm cutting the front panel next so I should get to use it soon.

The panels are just leaning against each other here so I could get an idea of the size. I'm going out of town this weekend so I won't be able to work on them again until next week. (well, maybe Sunday night when I get back) I can't wait!

[David Carter]

Dang, this is fun!

Another convert!

[Tim A]

Dang, this is fun!

Be advised, it's a sickness. You think GAS is bad, wait until you fire that baby up. You'll be hitting Bill's catalog page for more plans.

Looks great, keep us posted!

[Rug]

Thanks, guys.

I'm definitely hooked and I've already got my next build(s) planned. (wedgehorns and DR200's, then maybe an Omni 10.5)

I can't wait to get this finished and try it out. I'm hoping I'll have enough time to work on it this week so I can take it out to band practice next weekend. That's what I'm shooting for anyway. I'm planning on working on them for awhile tomorrow (Monday) evening and hoping for some good progress.

I'll keep everyone over here posted with my progress. Thanks again to Tim A. for all of his assistance on this already. I've had several private exchanges with him and he's always been very patient with me and extremely helpful. And thanks to Leland @ speakerhardware.com for the kit and parts and the helpful emails. I appreciate it, guys.

[Rug]

Getting closer! Looking for some big progress tomorrow. Hoping to have it finished by practice this weekend.

[Rug]

My daily update. Just taking a quick lunch break and snapped a pic. Still going to do a bit more work on it yet today. I might just have this ready by Sunday after all!

[Tim A]

Yer gettin' there!

Looks like the side (right in the picture) has a slight front to back bow at the top. Pay attention when you mount the top panel!

[Rug]

You're correct, Tim. It was bowed even worse until I put the top brace in there. I was thinking about making my top panel flange the full length of the top to "encourage" the side to straighten out that last little bit.

[Tim A]

Clamp it in place so it's straight. The PL and screws will hold it well enough.

[Rug]

It's a sub! Time to start bondo-ing and sanding.

[Tim A]

If you're planning to route the edges, do it before you fill.

[Scott Brochu]

If you're planning to route the edges, do it before you fill.

I got to ask why?

If you used screws on the corners. Then removing the screws will leave holes, Wont that mess up the smooth edge when gliding that router across the edge?
I know you can't be sloppy with the filler either. I take my screw out and then fill/ scrape off with putty knife and let dry, than route edge and sand with orbital sander/ or hand.
Just wondering what your motives where?

[Sydney]

Because the un-routed edges of plywood ( even BB ) can catch and tear?

FWIW: I have seen the wear and tear on a touring system that used BB, and though it was throughly covered in black thick enamel, several cabs have layers caught and torn back when the sharp edges caught.

[Tim A]

If you're planning to route the edges, do it before you fill.

I got to ask why?

If you used screws on the corners. Then removing the screws will leave holes, Wont that mess up the smooth edge when gliding that router across the edge?
I know you can't be sloppy with the filler either. I take my screw out and then fill/ scrape off with putty knife and let dry, than route edge and sand with orbital sander/ or hand.
Just wondering what your motives where?

The screws go in the panel that the router sets on, not the one the bit runs across. You should always route the edge of the panel, this avoids tear out.

In his picture, look at the top. The top panel is screwed to the sides. To route that properly, the router would set on the top and the bit's guide bearing will run on the side. No screw holes.

This is a rule of thumb and like anything else there are exceptions. If you do get a screw hole in the way, it would need to be filled first.

Secondly, the amount of fill you need on the edges is typically reduced after routing. If you fill beforehand you end up wasting fill material and time.

If I were routing that box, I'd do it this way:

Clean up all glue and surface issues
Run flush cut bearing guided straight bit on all edges
Run roundover bit on all edges
Fill imperfections
Sand