BillFitzmaurice.info

Is there also any frrdback folks might like to share regarding this La Voce model? I just came upon it when performing a search for bass guitar speaker on their main site:

NBASS10-20 10" BASS GUITAR SPEAKER NEODYMIUM MAGNET
STEEL BASKET DRIVERFEATURES
- 2 INCH COPPER VOICE COIL

- 95,5 dB/SPL SENSITIVITY

- 300 WATT PROGRAM POWER HANDLING

APPLICATIONS NOTES
NBASS10-20 is a super lightweight neodymium 10 inch
design made specifically for bass guitar cabinets or combos;
Robust bass extension and finely tuned mid-band,
its definition is clear through any mix.

You'd think a choice especially with the X Max over 6mm? That and a very light speaker.

The specs are OK so long as 150w is sufficient. It's AES, which is the equivalent of RMS, that matters.

Good progress on the box. Sayisfying trimming the horn sheath to sides joint and giving it a little radius.

Have been mostly able to use 23 Ga. x 1/2" pin nails to hold things in place till PL cures. A few spots needing staples.

Wondering if there's a reason to NOT extend the baffle plane out to meet the side walls with a fill in pair of vertical rectangles? Could be problematic if you wanted to access nuts holding driver in place? This would decrease interior air volume that the speaker worked to compress on the "backstroke" and might increase oututput through the ducts?
Is there likely to be a change in overall tone due to closing off these volumes? It would simplify installing dampening materials at the end.

Good fun overall and the whole structure stiffens up nicely. I can just feel what it will be like to grab the leather top handle. Thinking lots about what corner protectors to use.

Thanks Bill.....

pictures

Nice work man!

AndrewMoore wrote: ↑Fri May 16, 2025 1:21 pm ..Thinking lots about what corner protectors to use.

Have a look at these, they're on the list here for a future J10L build.
https://www.penn-elcom.com/au/2-leg-bla ... ius-c1225k

Yooooooo, looking good!

Keryn,

Those corners look perfect with the small radius that suits the 1/4 baltic. Thanks for pointing out.

Reposting to hopefully get Bill's take on the possibility:

"Wondering if there's a reason to NOT extend the baffle plane out to meet the side walls with a fill in pair of vertical rectangles? Could be problematic if you wanted to access nuts holding driver in place? This would decrease interior air volume that the speaker worked to compress on the "backstroke" and might increase oututput through the ducts?
Is there likely to be a change in overall tone due to closing off these volumes? It would simplify installing dampening materials at the end."

Thanks, Andrew

If you change those volumes it raises the tuning of the cabinet. You don't want that.

Thanks Will leave it alone as designed!

That duct sheath took some force to get bent into position even with making sure I had the bend bias going in the right
direction. Was able though to clamp it like horn sheath and did not need to add staples.

clamps removed & a bit of sanding

I used clamps and staples, just to be sure.

Wrappped up build. Sounds great with an emminence 2510.
Overall 22#. Used semi gloss spray on unside of horn and rest of external surfaces got 3 coats Exohyde texture paint.
Machined some corner bumpers from hdpe on cnc router.

Beauty. Well done.

Been enjoying the cab. Using a Markbass nano amp.

I keep returning to wondering how the front wave off the
driver cone ends up interacting with the rear wave that vents out the ducts? Can anyone discuss this interaction to better visualize the dynamics please.