BillFitzmaurice.info

You can try it before you coat the cab. That way, you won't mess up the coating if you decide to put in the L-pad.

Yes will do, thanks!

Hi Grant and Tom so I soldered the connectors +/- for the Neutrik but can you check:
1-Is this sloppy job I can redo it or is this good enough and rigid enough to move forward, will this have enough contact or the solder will reduce voltage going through?

2- I have black liquid sealant should I mount the 12" Kappalite then spread the black stuff all around the frame as to seal it?

3- Tha Apt 80 is kinda heavy for the horn should I glue a piece of plywood under the driver to the rear baffle to take the weight of the 1" Eminence.


Thanks for your reply.

Looks ok.
Sloppy doesn't stop or reduce electricity.
You should have a multimeter (otherwise how do you set your voltage limits right?).
If yes, put it on continuity mode and see you have continuity on all three lugs of each terminal.
If yes, you're good to go, if no, the offending terminal needs a touch up with the soldering iron.
Just looking at it, the only one I think may be a problem is bottom right, in the centre, but check all 4.

The kappalite should have a speaker gasket, that should be enough to seal it. Use the leak test method to find out.
Liquid sealant makes it difficult to service your cab if there is a problem later.

As far as the APT80 goes, I haven't seen any reports here in the forum (that I can remember) that the horn part suffers from breakage.
So I don't think a support is necessary, and if it was, Bill would have it in the plans...

Ok great, I will check continuity, I bought a cheap meter from Harbor Freight shows me different voltages when connected to speaker terminals. But I will check. I loaded the 12" Kappalite and hopefully it will seal when the bolts are tightened, saw a little space I will temporarily see again just to make sure. Ok I won't put supports just seem so heavy for the plastic horn to take.
Thanks again Grant!

djlivex wrote: ↑Sun May 17, 2020 6:08 pm Ok great, I will check continuity, I bought a cheap meter from Harbor Freight shows me different voltages when connected to speaker terminals.

Since you mentioned volts, I'm not sure if you understand what Grant meant about the meter.
First-disconnect the speaker cables from the crossovers. Then, put the meter in the Ohm setting. I don't know what scales are on your meter, but, the resistance that you want to measure should be below 10 ohms. Now, with just those terminals, place one meter lead on the tab, and the other lead on one of the female connectors. The meter should read less than 1 ohm, and if not, place the hot soldering iron tip on the solder so that it will flow better (let the tip get good and hot first, before placing on the solder).
This is strictly for measuring continuity.

If you are going to measure voltage, as when you are going to set your limiters, then the meter should be set to V/AC (not V/DC)(the letters might be a bit different, but similar).

Ok Tom will do that step by step, now where the hell did I put that meter. LOL I haven't done this like a year now. Thanks

Oh by the way Grant, I am cleaning out my closet I see an unopened GoPro Hero 3 had this 3 years now, would this be ok for recording video of the Omni 12TB for youtube? Then on this site so everyone can hear and see. i see no one doing any video they have built from this site. Thanks

djlivex wrote: ↑Tue May 19, 2020 12:26 pm Oh by the way Grant, I am cleaning out my closet I see an unopened GoPro Hero 3 had this 3 years now, would this be ok for recording video of the Omni 12TB for youtube? Then on this site so everyone can hear and see. i see no one doing any video they have built from this site. Thanks

Sure mate, give it a go.
Have a good listen to the video before you upload it to YouTube for audio quality.
If it sounds distorted, you might want to re record it, using the GoPro in a different position...

Ok Grant thanks for all the help, will listen first before I post. I don't have a measuring mike to hook up but a AKG Mic.

How are you Grant, well I am almost finished with the cab, but I ran to a problem. While mounting the Kappalite 12LF the 1/4" Hex Bolt cannot be turned as it is in a tight spot near the door frame of the back of the cab. So can I leave this one bolt out all 7 are in and hand tightened. Will this affect the speaker itself I mean leaks on that side? Thanks

You need to install that bolt, otherwise, you will have a leak there which will result in lower output or a noise.
Try twisting around, perhaps using the other arm to get it installed. Perhaps, even try doing it behind your back (it can be done, I know from experience with other situations). You can do it, have patience, be aware of how it feels as you are trying to install it so that it goes in properly.
A question: is that bolt at 9 o'clock?

Tom its in the 9 o'clock position, I was able to tighten No.2 cab as the the position of the bolt itself with 2 handed or 2 fingers each with feel you can attach the head of the hex then only swing it 1/8 turn, took me literally 45 mins while listening to an album by jazz group Heroshima. Its nice to work on your speaker project with smooth music in your living room. Anyway I think I found a way if I stood the allen wrench on the tall side it can be done but I have to remove some of the wood of frame where part of the back is attached. But I may have to do that tomorrow. Now how to prevent getting saw dust from the rear of the 12" woofer? LOL Thanks Tom!

Glad you were able to get it done.

It took me about 1:15 hours to turn the allen wrench 1/16 upwards on the left side of the bolt, then 1/8 turn on the downward stroke for the right side of the bolt. Its all installed except for cab no.2 will install crossover for the 12" tonight.