BillFitzmaurice.info

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:48 am

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 7:25 am There's no three tweeter option because you can't wire three tweeters series/parallel.

I'm guessing there's a reason three in series would be of no advantage? I have zero grasp on the concept of them being capacitive loads and the effect of wiring them differently. Physically, it's possible to wire 3 series/parallel with one short leg and in the world of ohms I know the result. In the world of capacitance... duhhhhhhhh ummmmm

The sensitivity of the two banks would be different if you wired two series, then paralleled with a single one.

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 12:04 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:48 am

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 7:25 am There's no three tweeter option because you can't wire three tweeters series/parallel.

I'm guessing there's a reason three in series would be of no advantage? I have zero grasp on the concept of them being capacitive loads and the effect of wiring them differently. Physically, it's possible to wire 3 series/parallel with one short leg and in the world of ohms I know the result. In the world of capacitance... duhhhhhhhh ummmmm

The sensitivity of the two banks would be different if you wired two series, then paralleled with a single one.

On an each by each basis, would each of the two paralelled have more or less sensitivity than the single that doesn't have one paralelled off it? Or would it be the same, all 3 the same?

Three in series would have the same net sensitivity as two in series. You'd make the build more complicated and more expensive for no reason. Two in series with one in parallel would be as useful as a rowboat having two oars on one side and one on the other.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 1:02 pm Two in series with one in parallel would be as useful as a rowboat having two oars on one side and one on the other.

So, you'd go in a circle, right? Wow, instant Leslie effect!

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 1:02 pm Three in series would have the same net sensitivity as two in series. You'd make the build more complicated and more expensive for no reason. Two in series with one in parallel would be as useful as a rowboat having two oars on one side and one on the other.

I'm guessing again, that the benefits of better wavefront integration and narrower vertical dispersion angles wouldn't really be too apparent or useful in the shorter 2x cabs. In any case, I'm satisfied with the 2 tweeters, but will probably build the 4x cabs with the 6 tweeter option... unless there's good reason not to.


Thanks for the insights Bill

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 6:32 pm will probably build the 4x cabs with the 6 tweeter option... unless there's good reason not to.

There's never a good reason not to build a speaker.....or six.....

Bruce Weldy wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 6:43 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 6:32 pm will probably build the 4x cabs with the 6 tweeter option... unless there's good reason not to.

There's never a good reason not to build a speaker.....or six.....

LOL... Right? Not-a-one

The only reason I can think of to do the full size SLA Pro's with only 4 tweeters is to be able to use the same EQ preset settings as the shorties.

Buttoned the second one up today. Actually, they're only 95% buttoned up. Still waiting on gasket tape to trim the drivers and tweets with and some more appropriate screws for the top hat's. Currently have drywall screws in there. Which reminds me... I'm having trouble finding all of the screw sizes in a black oxide finish and initially thought I'd just paint over the zink/natural finish. But, the thought crossed my mind to use gun blueing instead, but I have no experience with it. Do any of you know if it would be an appropriate product to essentially make standard shiny silver screws and hardware black(ish)?


Anyway, current state of progress...

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:32 pm I'm having trouble finding all of the screw sizes in a black oxide finish and initially thought I'd just paint over the zink/natural. But, the thought crossed my mind to use gun blueing instead, but I have no experience with it. Do any of you know if it would be an appropriate product to essentially make standard shiny silver screws and hardware black(ish)?

IMHO having used it, it's not worth the effort to "blue" the screws. While it's fairly simple, it's not quick, for no better a result.

I push whatever sized silver/zinc/non black screws I need into a piece of cardboard, all at the same time, in, say, rows of 10.
Squirt them with mat or satin black paint from a rattle tin/spray pack, let them dry, put em in.

Or send off an order to Leland...

Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:40 pm

SethRocksYou wrote: ↑Fri Apr 10, 2020 11:32 pm I'm having trouble finding all of the screw sizes in a black oxide finish and initially thought I'd just paint over the zink/natural. But, the thought crossed my mind to use gun blueing instead, but I have no experience with it. Do any of you know if it would be an appropriate product to essentially make standard shiny silver screws and hardware black(ish)?

IMHO having used it, it's not worth the effort to "blue" the screws. While it's fairly simple, it's not quick, for no better a result.

I push whatever sized silver/zinc/non black screws I need into a piece of cardboard, all at the same time, in, say, rows of 10.
Squirt them with mat or satin black paint from a rattle tin/spray pack, let them dry, put em in.

Or send off an order to Leland...

I appreciate the shared experience and recommendation Grant. Thanks buddy

Hey Seth. I like to use metal grills with foam behind them.

The metal I use is from "Industrial Metal Supply" - looks like the closest one to you would be in LA. although I'm sure there are similar places around you.

I order the foam online at https://www.thefoamfactory.com/opencellfoam/filter.html
(Missed naming opportunity, I always want to call them "The Foam Depot" )

I would recommend the 1/2" foam.

If you put on grills with a backer, no one can see the silver screws anyway....

This is probably the cheapest foam you can find and it's right down the street...

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HQRP-Replace ... /155694609

Spray the back of the grill with adhesive and lay it down on the foam, put a piece of plywood on that and then do the other one right on top of it - throw a brick on top and let it cook.

But, don't spray the foam or the glue will show through the holes in the grill....

If you spray the foam you'll clog it too, so only spray the grille.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote: ↑Sat Apr 11, 2020 7:44 am If you spray the foam you'll clog it too, so only spray the grille.

Another niblet of wisdom from the Master.