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I didn't have any trouble mounting the driver with only 1 access panel. Just get the easy ones started first then the others should be lined up.

johns811 wrote:I didn't have any trouble mounting the driver with only 1 access panel. Just get the easy ones started first then the others should be lined up.

The crossover mounted in there would have made it tougher....and there's no way I could have mounted the crossover after the speaker was in.

So, I just stuck the speaker in before buttoning it up. It's worked fine. Of course, the 3010FL has only 4 mounting holes, so that makes it easier too. I couldn't imagine trying to get those back ones started and cranked down with 8 holes.

It wasn't that difficult, my driver had 8 holes, I used hex head bolts. I was able to start with fingers then get a socket on it and tighten it up.

johns811 wrote:It wasn't that difficult, my driver had 8 holes, I used hex head bolts. I was able to start with fingers then get a socket on it and tighten it up.

That's what I would have done, but it was going to be a tight fit. I tested it and I could have done it, but it would been hard to get much torque inside there.

Anyway, I can get the driver out if I need to, but it was way easier putting it in first. Doubly true with the crossover components....the BB is really hard to start a screw in by hand in a cramped space with a stubby screwdriver. Glad I could get in from the other side to get some leverage.

Filling, sanding, and routing today.

We did the same thing with our T30's, Bruce; single access cover and install driver before 2nd side goes on. Worked a treat, may be a little trickier to remove/reinstall but we figured we'd cross that bridge if we got to it possibly more room to work with than T24 with crossover though like you say...

Looks good Bruce! Can't wait to start mine!

I used a hurricane style nut, so it was very easy to snug up once I got it threaded. I had mounted it previously to make sure everything was lined up.

johns811 wrote:I used a hurricane style nut, so it was very easy to snug up once I got it threaded. I had mounted it previously to make sure everything was lined up.

My T39s all have hurricane nuts, but this one has lag screws.

I recently had to replace (well not really) a driver in one of my DR 250's,one of the first ones i built before i seen how Harley cut recesses in the braces to access driver bolts on the side,i couldnt imagine trying to do it with just 1 access panel.

Put duratex on the bottom first, then attached the wheels.....much easier putting on the two coats of duratex on the rest of the cab when I could just spin it around on the wheels.

Gonna' let it dry, then probably add the corners and jack plate this afternoon.

Should be making noise shortly thereafter....

It's done except for the chevron corners....shoulda' remembered to buy some of the little black screws from Leland. I have some silver ones....but, they don't look as good....finding 'em locally is impossible. So, I need to order some.

Anyway, it works.....looks pretty good too all stacked up...

It's done except for the chevron corners....shoulda' remembered to buy some of the little black screws from Leland. I have some silver ones....but, they don't look as good....finding 'em locally is impossible. So, I need to order some.

Jamb the screws into some cardboard and spray-paint them. Make as many as you want/need. Oh, and any colour as well.

Tom Smit wrote:

It's done except for the chevron corners....shoulda' remembered to buy some of the little black screws from Leland. I have some silver ones....but, they don't look as good....finding 'em locally is impossible. So, I need to order some.

Jamb the screws into some cardboard and spray-paint them. Make as many as you want/need. Oh, and any colour as well.

I care enough to buy new screws....I don't care enough to paint 'em.

Looks sweet Bruce! My brother used one of his T30's as a bass monitor last weekend, worked v nicely!

Well, I've used the T24 as a drum monitor for a couple of shows now.....the problem I'm having is that the top is outrunning the sub utilizing the passive crossover.

I'm having to boost the bottom and lower the top across the board on the GEQ to try and level it out.

Is there any kind of pad that I could use to attenuate the top some to help level it out?

Still trying to keep it running with a passive crossover and not have to bi-amp it.