BillFitzmaurice.info

Cool. Thanks for the insight. The router sadly is missing some key pieces, so either I need to get them from my friend loaning it to me or find an alternative.

sine143 wrote:I'd recomend a 3/8 roundover. most appealing imo.

+1

That's what I use.

The key to routing is making sure that you are going the correct direction. A little practice on some scrap will make a world of difference.

I bought a router, did some test runs on an old corner jig. I kept hitting the screws and sending sparks flying. Is that all part of the process or did I do something wrong? Picked up the 3/8 round over like suggested but I don't see how I am going to do this without hitting all the screws.

I am missing something?

Thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

chrisj360 wrote:I kept hitting the screws and sending sparks flying. Is that all part of the process or did I do something wrong? Picked up the 3/8 round over like suggested but I don't see how I am going to do this without hitting all the screws.

I am missing something?

Yes, the instruction where it says remove the screws before rounding over. With brads, no big deal. With screws, remove them and fill in the holes left with polyester body filler.

Dang. I tried so hard to have this build happen without having it pointed out to me that I missed something in the instructions.

Well as it's obvious from my other photos, I had already covered all the screws with bondo and painted over them. So after a few hours of sanding, scrapping, digging and a two hour emergency trip to the vet for my dog, I have routed the edges and now waiting for the filler to dry.

I decided, since I was already taking a few steps backwards, I might as well do some better sanding on them.

I'll try to paint tomorrow morning before class and see if I can't have them finished before work in the evening.

Thanks again for the save DJPhatman.

Bro, it's your first build, chillax! Mistakes happen, the real "pros" are just able to hide them from our watchful eyes!

3 things:
1. Nice cabs
2. I roundover with screws still in place. I use a cheapo router bit from a cheap 12 piece set. As long as you are gentle as it chews the screws (expect LOTS of sparks!!), the bit survives intact with no damage at all... I have now built 4 T30s and rounded them over with the same bit - all the cabs had screws in them. Rounding over makes you cabs look SO much better... Seriously think about rounding them over because you'll be so glad you did. DO NOT start on your cabs though until you are 100% happy with how the router/bit works (use scrap bits of ply for this).
3. When I said that you only one hand hole, I meant that you only had one in the centre of the cab width, rather than two slightly offset to the right and left. I wasn't talking about total holes in the cab, just the number of hand holes on whichever corners you decided to put them.
Anyway, the case I was trying to make but not explaining myself fully does probably not apply to you... My slim cabs have a single hand hole at the front bottom (in the mouth on the 'bottom' panel (12)) along with a single hand hole at the top rear (going from panel 8 through to panel 10)... the cabs are carried from opposite corners, so the top is at 45° when you carry it (when looking from the side). With only the 1 handle it's waay top heavy and I wouldn't recommend it (I now have to carry my slims upside down, unless it's a PITA). This PITA is the reason why I mentioned it, but I TOTALLY forgot that very few people have elected to put their hand holds in these particular corners like me!! )
I would highly recommend carrying your subs like this though (if you have the hand holds in the right places, and 2 at each place of course!). It means that as you aren't carrying the subs square, you get no more banged knees - I have lost count of the number of manufactured subs that are a bitch to carry, so wanted something easy to move (especially important due to my free party usage of the rig )

Sorry, I'm waffling now. I'll shut up in the hope what I said above still makes some sort of sense (despite multiple additions), before I add to it YET AGAIN!

Well other than painting the bottoms, attaching rubber fee,t a few other little things and the V-plate, I am happy to say that they are pretty much done. Fired them up and they're sounding great. My dog hates them but all of my friends seem pretty impressed.

I hear what your saying about the handholds now escapemcp and I'll have to remember that for the next two. I am pretty much imagining hand carting these guys around. I might cut into the panels to attach casters but haven't decided.

Thanks again everyone for all the help and support. I wish the basement didn't have such bad light, I'll try to get some better pictures soon.

Now onto the OTop12 build.

Those are looking good. I'm doing the reverse of your approach. I'm in the middle of building a pair of Omnitops and will build a pair of T 30s next... or 4 if I'm feeling ambitious enough and have the funds.

chrisj360 wrote:Well other than painting the bottoms, attaching rubber fee,t a few other little things and the V-plate, I am happy to say that they are pretty much done. Fired them up and they're sounding great. My dog hates them but all of my friends seem pretty impressed.

chrisj360 wrote:I might cut into the panels to attach casters but haven't decided.

You have another option, build a dolly out of 4 x 2's or similar, with 4 casters on it. Stack the pair of T30's on it to move them around, as in longer distances...