BillFitzmaurice.info

You are next level helpful. Thank you. I believe we have MEK which I've used specifically for getting PL off hands. I'm really close to the first mentioned place.

No slipping since using MEK. Problem that we still have is the bit is really difficult to change out. Much safer problem than too loose, so I'm ok with that. More build progress. I manually (fly cutter+ drill press) recessed the rear jacks. Also, panel 8/9 are in and 10 will go in tonight. Didn't take too long to jig saw out the cutouts for the casters. Looking good so far. Ignore the random messup on panel 10, it is airtight and will get bondo/sanding treatment later on.

Nice work repairing / maintaining your router.

The birds eye view picture of the driver chamber and horn path shows that you are building to a pretty high standard

Wait till its leak tested and you feed it 30 or so volts of Datsik or Rusko

I pray that it comes out like the chart. I await the day when I get to turn it on. It is VERY solidly built so far (hoping to make some gorgeous 1 piece braces... we'll see), Bill as always the bracing does wonders, super reinforcement. The dado's definitely make glue and screw time more enjoyable although as many forum members will mention is totally overkill . I've been scraping off the external pl at half cure as to avoid unnecessary sanding later on. With all the panels pulled together with screws I have almost no warp (after careful drilling, forcing it straight) and extremely strong joinery. I'm not chancing leak potential, I already have a ~$330 paper weight, this one has to come out as airtight as humanly possible and I have been using extra PL for this time around (the screws have helped the process a lot as well).

I would try and locate another test device... just saying. and surely it didnt take 400 dollars plywood! you can reuse every single part other than that (assuming you had labs) and assuming those drivers were not faulty.

sine143 wrote:I would try and locate another test device... just saying. and surely it didnt take 400 dollars plywood! you can reuse every single part other than that (assuming you had labs) and assuming those drivers were not faulty.

Yeah, the lab will be reused in a future build (either THT or T60 #2). I'll keep the T39 around until I can A/B them, and probably still use it for low volume requirement gigs until I look into another T60. If it hasn't blown by now (and seeing as it has no leaks now) using it at full rated power won't hurt anything.

It was my first build, I take no offense and will admit that although it seemed solidly built I have learned a lot from it as an experiment. Things such as painting the inside of the handholds before you install the corner panels.

I have no regrets starting with the T39, it is a much easier build IMO of course, smaller panels make it easier to assemble. I'd recommend any first time builder to start with a more manageable size especially if your table saw/tool kit is rather limited. I am fortunate enough to have access to lots of wonderful things such as spokes planes, drill press (lots of drills), handheld drill/power screw driver, lots of massive clamps, fixed base router with round-over and pattern following bits, and most importantly a hobbyist woodworker father who helps me with my builds <3.

Got this glued in after dinner.

I need help, how do you open the gallon of duratex? The instructions are hard to understand (diagram). Also, how far into the T60 is visible? My idea was to paint the ends of the panel 10 braces (the one with the cutout on the end/back) but not the whole thing necessarily.

MC,
How much paint on the inside?
Just have a look at the cab from the end mate, from as many angles as possible, before the braces go in. Put pencil marks where you think your paint may be able to stop, go back and look at all your different angles again. If you can see your pencil marks from any angle, then you need to paint beyond those marks...

The reason I asked is because I don't have the bottom panel on it is hard to judge visibility. Thanks for being patient with me. I think i'll just paint more vs less because I have a whole gallon and it's not like I'm going to run out. *grant advice heeded.

Got lid open. Took a lot of work but this stuff is so beautiful it makes me want to cry. I'm in love with duratex.

MissileCrisis wrote: I'm in love with duratex.

Grasshopper....you have learned all you need to know - your training is complete.

- Master Kan in Kung Fu

Lay a straight board from the mouth (panel 12) to the end of panel 6 and draw an extention line from 6 to 10. That will be the sight line.

Tom Smit wrote:Lay a straight board from the mouth (panel 12) to the end of panel 6 and draw an extention line from 6 to 10. That will be the sight line.

Thanks for this. I had a little trouble let with the last two braces popping out of the grooves but I eventually got them to work. Got panel 11 done too. I pray that I can get the quarter round into place post placement. I painted the nude of the compartment but it will need touch up. I plan to paint the visible mouth with masked off brace lines tomorrow and later install panel 12 and 13.