BillFitzmaurice.info

Harley wrote:

eac wrote:I use a 1/16" bit on my stuff,... Use 1/8" bit on 1/2" wood...

Fat out - they are thin bits indeed. Are they special types/brands of bits?

Nothing special, just a helix cut 3 flute, high aspect ratio that gets along with the balsa I cut. Works good on other hardwoods also, for engraving and inlay work. Obvioulsly work really great on birch ply...

One last explanation of making a square inside corner with a round bit. The software does this but you can also do it manually. You guys are making it too complicated

on a normal inside corner, the bit goes into the corner, the goes at 90 degrees to the right to continue cutting. This leaves a rounded inside fillet at the radius of the bit. A square piece of wood can't go all the way onto the corner.

To correct this, when the bit hits the 'corner', and before it goes at 90 degrees to continue the cutting, it goes in to the corner at 45 degrees, just enough to get rid of the fillet, so a square piece can fit in properly. To do this, it has to go past the corner point, til the edge of the bit hits the point where it would be square, allowing the other piece to fit. It actually doesn't make the corner square, it makes it so square pieces can fit into the corner.

The new pic shows the actual cut in light blue, so you can see the 'overcut'... The dark blue line is the path of the bit.

Hope this explains it better.

Not sure when I will be able to get back to building, but everything has to be done, tested, and ready for the weekend of Sept 23rd. Busier than usual with kit orders right now, and kids & grand kids are visiting for labor day weekend, so the only time will be trying to sneak in a little build time a couple evenings til after the weekend.

Don @ EAC

Aaaaahhh...all is revealed - a picture is worth a thousand words. (and the real thing is worth 100 pictures. )

Thanks for the explanation.

Was held up due to forgetting to order top hats, and needed them to continue

Leland to the rescue He dropped some stuff off to me, since his in-laws have a place near me, and we talked for quite a while... Super nice guy, as anyone who has met him already knows...

Great that Parsons isn't a long drive from Eureka Springs...

Family left for home after the holiday weekend, now I am back to it... Got one sheath glued and stapled in place. Thought I had practiced enough before hand with the air stapler, but I was wrong.. Have a few staple sized holes to fill once glue dries..

But... I love the way it looks... these are going to be very cool.

Don

Genius I tell you, genius. Don's Jack 10 lite flatpack will be showing up on SpeakerHardware probably before the end of the week. He's also going to work up 12 and 15's.

The RC plane experience held him in good stead on laying this out.

Genius is right - absolutely love the way the brace brace is a single piece, but the tabs. . .damn that's good stuff.

On a side note, I shouldn't have asked about the router. I used to go to sleep wrapping my head around baffles, melded arrays, and naturally crossovers. Recently, it's lead screws, steppers, drivers and the alphabet (as in x, y & z).

kekani wrote:Genius is right - absolutely love the way the brace brace is a single piece, but the tabs. . .damn that's good stuff.

On a side note, I shouldn't have asked about the router. I used to go to sleep wrapping my head around baffles, melded arrays, and naturally crossovers. Recently, it's lead screws, steppers, drivers and the alphabet (as in x, y & z).

Thanks, Guys....

Kekani, I could have told you that was going to happen. It's as addictive as building cabs. Twice as much so when you combine the two, or is it squared???

Don

Each doubling of cabs effectively squares the result.

Wow, I love this build - its almost like building with legos! How much time does it take you to draw it up in a CAD program?

I'd love it if you'd PM me the CNC info aswell - it would be an immensely valuable addition to my shop, and i've been contemplating buying one some day - building one myself would be amazing

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

eac wrote:
1) On page 4, it says to draw two 14" radius arcs from A & B. Needs to say 8-3/4". Minor but will confuse builders.

Fixed, thanks.

2) The holes shown for the Top Hat on the bottom & duct do not line up. They are off by 3/4", which a top hot will not fit through

The question is, which one is correct for the best cabinet balance on a stand? Do I move the hole in the bottom forward, or the hole in the duct back?

The hole position in the duct must stay where it is. The hole in the bottom is 6 3/4 OC from the front edge.

Plans I received August 10 show this dimension as 7 1/2", not 6 3/4"
Should be able to fix my cabs tomorrow with a patch, glue, and a smattering of bad language
A minor pitfall on the road to aural enlightenment

Great news!!!!! Leland just put up the CNC cut Jack 10 Lite Flat Pack. The 12 and 15 soon to follow, and maybe W6 and W8 lites..

Been busy with the plane biz, so not as much time to spend getting cabs ready for the last week.. Have to get it in gear since I need them in 2 weeks

A few pictures.. Have a lot of filling and sanding to do. Stapling the sheaths is the only hard part of the build. Missed the braces quite a few times, as you can see, so a lot of filling. The lines I thought were right weren't quite spot on..

May have found a fix for that problem for the second cab. I found if you put a light inside the cab behind the sheaths, you can see the the brace location very well. Now I just need to learn to aim the stapler correctly

The discs around the top hat are to resize the holes for the metal top hats Leland sells. Cut the 2" holes the plans call for for the thicker plastic top hats, before I bought the metal ones, which only need 1.5" holes. 1/4" gap is a bit much to make airtight.

Don

Putting the sheaths on J10 lite #2. Big breakthrough on this one.. After puting on 3 staples on the first sheath, and 1 missing the brace, I decided to try it with no staples, just clamped at the baffle and cab side.

After finding it wasn't a 1 person job, had my wife come in and do the clamping while I held the sheath tight in place.

The results were fantastic Did completely with no staples on second side. The square piece is sealing the patch for the hole cut in the wrong spot, see earlier post...

Everything was tight against the braces, PL oozing everywhere, and no air leaks to fix, except for the one missed staple on the first side, and no staple holes to fill and sand. Just as solid as the one with the staples, if not more solid.

After these results, I need to come up with a jig to clamp the duct sheaths in place, so no staple there either. A bit harder since no where to easily clamp the front side. Off the CAD....

One question for you all... What Bondo are you using? Is there a Bondo that says it is polyester? I have looked 3 places, and can only find the original Bondo, the 2 part stuff, and it says nothing about polyester

Does anyone have a picture of the proper Bondo can?

Don

hmmm, those curves... sexy & flawless!

Don,
We don't have "Bondo" as such here. Qualifying that, not the Bondo brand.

We do have auto body filler and builders bog. Either are two part, Ratio 50 parts product : 1 part hardener (or catalyst).

Use in a well ventilated area.

I have used both and in each case the hardener is red. The final mix is best when pink.
Not enough hardener and it takes forever to set, and clogs up your sandpaper.
Too much hardener and it is red more than pink and sets very quickly.

I mix mine up on a scrap of ply, using a 2" paint scraper to mix and apply.

Smaller holes fill in one application, slightly overfill so the Bondo is proud, it sands down easily.
Large defects (if you have them) should be filled in a number of applications, letting each application set before applying more to slowly build up.

Mix up small batches at a time, eg, your mix might measure 2" x 2" and be half an inch high. Then if it goes off/sets, you don't waste much if you have been trying to fill tricky areas.

You can use it until just after it starts to go off. If you scrape up your scrap of ply at the correct time it will clean up enough to use again...

Grant Bunter wrote: Ratio 50 parts product : 1 part hardener...

That's the hard bit to get right, how do you correctly gauge it?

Harley wrote:

Grant Bunter wrote: Ratio 50 parts product : 1 part hardener...

That's the hard bit to get right, how do you correctly gauge it?

Thanks, yep, that's what I have, and have worked with many times in the past on cars. The one I picked up doesn't give the exact ratio but says a 3" strip of hardener to a 3" circle 1/2" thick of filler. Not real precise

Hopefully someone in the US can verify if that is the 'polyester' version Bill mentions in the manual. I was sure hoping for a 1 part, no mixing, for the reasons you both mention.

Don