BillFitzmaurice.info

el_ingeniero wrote:

Gregory East wrote:Eaten skin could lead to sensitisation, if that isn't already happening, next stop is allergic reaction to all kinds of stuff, if it wasn't for the misery I endured I'd leave it out since the dismissal, the rest others will fill in for you, but I urge you to keep pl off yourself at all costs and ventilate the hell out of your workshop.

I don't think PL fumes are a huge issue. Bondo fumes on the other hand ...

As always, if in doubt, check out the MSDS for the product.
In the case of PL Premium, the MSDS, in part says:

Skin contact: Contact with skin can cause irritation and allergic reaction (sensitization) in some individuals. This product may discolor the skin.
Eye contact: Contact with eyes will cause irritation.
Existing conditions aggravated by exposure:
Development of preexisting skin or lung allergy symptoms may increase. Asthma.

Notes to physician: An individual having a dermal (skin) or pulmonary (lung) sensitization reaction to this material should be removed from further exposure to any diisocyanate.The physician's judgment should be used to control symptoms and clinical condition based on the individual reactions of the patient (I put in the the terms in brackets).

In short, wear nitrile gloves and if it's still a problem after that, stay away from it!

Shelf life:
For information on product shelf life, please review labels on container or check the Technical Data Sheet.

Ok I wore rubber gloves today, still have finger stains and insensitivity going away slowly. I put in the last panel 4 of the 4 subs tomorrow maybe a couple of more in slow build I want to take my time and build it right. Bondo is the worst in fumes and long term affects in my book!

If your guts pack up from your sensitising hormones like mine did you can wind up with multiple allergies to foods, inability to absorb nutrients, health destroyed. Take care.

Guys I have panel 7 in on all 4 cabs, slow build, my type of work takes me 12-14 hour days gotta make money for our hobby. Anyway I do not have pics but will post this weekend. Slight warp on panels can take time to align and glue the last thing tonight panel 7 on one of the cabs I shimmed with the 2 braces (panel 4/7 brace) so it can be tight against the 2"X2" guideboard I drilled the pilot holes under panel 7 and somehow it moved a little so I unscrewed all 4 screws under the one side panel and realigned the guideboard and redrilled the panel with the guideboard. Well just to let you know the heat in my build room reached about 93 Florida degrees with the ceiling fan on max the PL started curing in less than 15 minutes so now there is about a half mm gap between panel 7 and the side, even with the metal clamp the PL hardened quick and didn't get the panel tight against it.

This project is a challenge with all the panels and of course working by myself is even harder with no assistance but MAN!!! THIS TUBA 24 CAB is plenty STRONG . . . . whew all panels pre-cut BB and 1/2" thick I am a BELIEVER Thanks MR. BILL FITZMAURICE this cab design is as stiff like a 3/4" BB cab but less weight what a design THANKS A MIL BILL ! ! !

djlivex wrote:Guys I have panel 7 in on all 4 cabs, slow build, my type of work takes me 12-14 hour days gotta make money for our hobby. Anyway I do not have pics but will post this weekend. Slight warp on panels can take time to align and glue the last thing tonight panel 7 on one of the cabs I shimmed with the 2 braces (panel 4/7 brace) so it can be tight against the 2"X2" guideboard I drilled the pilot holes under panel 7 and somehow it moved a little so I unscrewed all 4 screws under the one side panel and realigned the guideboard and redrilled the panel with the guideboard. Well just to let you know the heat in my build room reached about 93 Florida degrees with the ceiling fan on max the PL started curing in less than 15 minutes so now there is about a half mm gap between panel 7 and the side, even with the metal clamp the PL hardened quick and didn't get the panel tight against it.

Did you dry-fit first? Do this by locating the panel where it should go. Drill the screw holes and insert screws. Check alignment. Remove the screws just enough so that the panel can be removed. Each screw should be a little above the side and are now somewhat like guide pins. Apply PL to the side, not the panel. This is so that you can see the screws going into the holes when you lower the panel. With the panel lowered, drive in the screws which will draw down the panel and cause squeeze-out.

Tom believe me I did that even clamped at the perfect alignment of panels it still moved maybe max 1 mm but then now you have to sand the braces because it is 1 mm less inside the panels. Anyway it's ok majority of the panels are great even cut ahead of time.

That's what I've been doing too. Holes are pre-drilled in the side panel, so just have to go further to bite into the new panel. I've had one move about 1mm while drilling the first pilot hole, but after they're screwed in, they're going nowhere. Weird.

Hey nice to meet you! I built a T24 with dual BP102 and built it 30 inches wide. It will rattle the teeth out of your skull! 4 is going to hurt people, literaly. Just dont expect it to hit very LOW. It is a great midbass in my opinion. It does not hit most of the lower bass in my music(LT2, WROK ON Productions). I have a lot of material below 40hz and it just drops off. BUT I also do not have 4 cabs..... so good luck. oh yeah forgot to mention I am also pushing approx 350RMS to it.

350WRMS whew thats alot!!! Anyway if it doen't hit 40Hz its ok for small parties this build, my tops are full range O12TB will be used for teaching my son to dj he is actually going to college (3 miles away) and on the weekends we plan to do weddings and parties and such which I did when I was in college. I had a big EAW system I bought out right. Why is it when you're single you have alot of cash (worked full time in Macy's NYC)!!!

Plan next is 8 T30 28" wide (BB exterior glue) loaded with Faital Pro 12HP1010 heavy ferrite magnets but this will WROCK the HOUSE!

350w doesn't really mean anything without knowing how it's calculated. Certaintly 350w of 50hz is too much for a single bp102. They are limited to 150w in t39, probably same for a t24.

BP102 in a T24 should be limited to 35v.

Not 4ohm ones.

Finished the braces 7-4 panels with last panel 7 in, too hot at 1 pm here in Tampa, FL nice beaches though!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/60536137@N ... otostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60536137@N ... otostream/

Thanks all!

I finished the flanges for all the access panels the best way is to fit and measure then cut I like a tight fit (wood clamps), since this may be a culprit for leaks I made sure it had enough PL. Also I skipped putting Panel 8 and braces to have easier access to the flange while building the 4 pieces of 1" ply all around the hole. Tomorrow starting again on panels 8, braces, and panel 9.

35V across a series pair of 4 ohm bp102. 17V each.