Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws
Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws
So far I've only used the brad nailer for the panel braces...and that was a complete breeze. I'd brace the tops of the panels to keep them from warping out, then I'd PL the brace, slide it in till it was snug, then shoot it. I felt more comfortable continuing with screws for connecting panels together.
Donny Collins
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW
Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws
4 cabs built, all 18 gauge Porter Cable Brad nailers (pick them up at the pawn shop for $20-25) not one problem, i'd never do it any other way.
Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws
I just bought 2- 16 gauge Paslode nailguns with 5 batteries for $90. They were on Craigslist for over a month before I called the guy with them, so I don't feel like I took advantage of him - I didn't even try to talk him down on the price. It was just too good of a deal for me to pass up - 2 cordless brad nailers for less than $100. While 16 gauge is a bit too big for speaker building, they will be good for other projects (baseboards, rebuilding wooden drawers, etc). I did buy some 1 1/4" brads that may get used on the next cab tho.
2 THTs, 2 TLAH, SLA curved, 1 8-AT, 1 AT JBL 1002D, 4 Otop12s, Jack 12, TT with Eminence 10", 2 SLAs, 1 T30 slim, 2 T30s (2-10" each), SLA Pros, TrT.
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- Location: Minneapolis, MN
Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws
+1doncolga wrote:So far I've only used the brad nailer for the panel braces...and that was a complete breeze. I'd brace the tops of the panels to keep them from warping out, then I'd PL the brace, slide it in till it was snug, then shoot it. I felt more comfortable continuing with screws for connecting panels together.
I've done panels with screws and both 16 and 18 gauge brads.
Keeping a panel clamped into place to be nailed into place can be problematic.
With screws, you can drill a guide hole from the inside 1/4 inch from the line where the panel goes, clamp or screw a caul against the line, clamp the panel in place against the caul, drill back through the guide hole into the panel.
I've discovered that if I send all the screws into the side so they stick out about 1/4 of an inch then place the panel on the screws, the screws will go into the the holes in the panel edge, but the panel itself will stand off about 3/16ths of an inch until the screws go all the way in. That's when I lay a bead of PL between the panel and the side, then send the screws home about 1/16th of an inch at a time until the panel is flush.
Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws
^ This. Not saying there aren't some Harbor Freight guns in the collection, but those are "special" purpose. By special purpose, that means those are the guns that get used on jobs where they'll likely be dropped or the guns people get to borrow. However, when doing actual work, pretty much every one of our air nailers/staplers is Senco, Paslode, or Porter Cable. Though I sold it last year, the Paslode brad nailer was a life saver when it came to small jobs in finished houses... No compressors, cords, or air hoses to drag around and tear stuff up. Though I did like that gun, I wouldn't recommend it for manufacturing purposes. Too long between shots. The PC you picked up looks like a nice gun! Have fun with it.LelandCrooks wrote:Until it doesn't. Then you buy another. As much as you build when it dies go buy a name brand. Voice of experience. I use Senco and Porter Cable.David Homer wrote:My brad nailer comes from Harbor Freight.. Works flawlessly...
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