Sorry for lack of response for last few days. It was my nephews 1st birthday, so I hid in the garage building stuff!
So Sitrep: 1st T30 almost there! Created my design to route out in the mouth of the speaker (panel 7?) - a nod to AntonZ where I saw this first (and sorry Anton that I didn't post before the weekend as promised). Painted up all but the 'back' of the speaker with duratex (well, Tuff Cote) and took the speaker into the house late last night to cure the paint. That paint is lovely stuff. Looks very pro

Does stink a bit though and as I am using a (very) long handled roller to apply, the roller can slip sometimes - nothing quickly going over again doesn't fix. Will purchase detachable castors next week (atm:

) and countersink them into the 'back' of the cab (it will roll around with the mouth facing up).
The template for the recessed bit and then the results:



Have also started on 2nd T30. Using far less screws than before, as the wood is much better (proper birch 9 ply). I am tending to only use them to take out warp or hold panels in place whilst the PL (well, 'builders expanding polyurethane foam' here in the UK) dries - although I don't remove them once finished.
After starting on the 2nd T30 whilst the 1st was still being finished made me realise how much better it is to have several speakers on the go at once. If you hit a problem, you don't feel like you have to solve it there and then. You can move over to the other speaker and ponder the problem. It also means that you have something to move across to whilst the PL sets. So I decided to start on the Otops as well

It was all going swimmingly (never did understand the etymology of that), until I stuck the top (or was it the bottom

) on. Only after the PL dried did I realise that my speaker was wonky

I haven't quite figured yet out how it has come about, but I know how to fix it and will be watching out for it when I make the next one. Anyway, here's the obligatory pics:


Since I took those photos, I have cut one of the throat reflectors. It was a pain in the arse, as the reflector ends up so small you cannot screw or clamp any sort of sled to it. I ended up bodging a rig which I attached to my 'building' palette (get one - very handy

) It now means that when I cut the next one tonight, I can simply slide a bit of wood with the 1st 45° cut on it up to the jig, clamp in place and run the saw along it, and I will have a perfect cut

I will take photos tonight, but it is nothing more advanced than a couple of bits of wood - one to bring the guide up to height of the bit of wood to cut, and one to act as the guide. I screwed it to the palette and it works a treat.
I drew a quick cross section of it to give you the idea:
Having that 'overhang' of the saw guide made me think. I could make a dedicated angle cutter jig. Screw a straight guide to the palette, but with a 12mm bit of ply on each end, so that it is raised up with enough space in the middle so that you can slide in a bit of wood, clamp it at the right angle, and then cut. Something like this:
Side view:
Plan view:
EDIT: I should have written "path of saw travel" on the pic above, not just "Saw" which is pointing toward the angled white thing with the black border which is actually the piece of wood to be cut.
EDIT: The 'feet' in the top pic should be dark brown to match the bottom pic. The black is the palette or any surface to attach to.
I'll knock one up tonight to take care of my other angled cuts. I will try to remember to take photos, so that you can see it, rather than having to rely on my dodgy mspaint drawings!
Thought I'd also take a couple of photos of the garage I have taken over to create my workshop.

So that brings you all up to date. Although my typing is good,
*if only* I could learn to read what you guys are writing about in this post, I might be able to be a less annoying dickface

. Now, can
anyone tell me what driver is needed in a WH10, FFS!!!!!
