More redneck I am sure of but not so sure about larger. 5'11" 185lbs of corn fed southern Ohio redneck.Grant Bunter wrote: For all I know biggerigger is larger and more redneck than you
New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
-
biggerrigger
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:32 am
- Location: ohio
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Built
4-25" Lab12 loaded T39's
2-DR250's Melded array
2-DR250's Flat array
4-25" Lab12 loaded T39's
2-DR250's Melded array
2-DR250's Flat array
-
Bruce Weldy
- Posts: 8597
- Joined: Fri Nov 27, 2009 11:37 am
- Location: New Braunfels, TX
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
biggerrigger wrote:More redneck I am sure of but not so sure about larger. 5'11" 185lbs of corn fed southern Ohio redneck.Grant Bunter wrote: For all I know biggerigger is larger and more redneck than youI will post a pic in my profile later today if you guys promise to keep your hands off of your self's.
Looks like I take biggest redneck honors at 6'1" and 245......but it's all muscle......really.....no really, I mean it....shut up - that's not funny....
6 - T39 3012LF
4 - OT12 2512
1 - T24
1 - SLA Pro
2 - XF210
"A system with a few knobs set up by someone who knows what they are doing is always better than one with a lot of knobs set up by someone who doesn't."
-
Grant Bunter
- Posts: 6912
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
No worries mate.biggerrigger wrote: Looks like spell check got the better of me again. (note to self, proof read and post before 6 cocktails)
My apologies Mr.Bunter
The problem with spell check is it never has a problem with a word spelt correctly, and always totally ignores context. Regardless of how many "lemonades" one may have consumed.
Uh huhBruce Weldy wrote: ...but it's all muscle...
Back to the thread...
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
So sorry, ladies, but I'll claim the biggest redneck honors at 5'11" and around 425 pounds (actual weight is unknown, as there are no scales large enough to weigh me) I ain't corn-fed, it is just eatin' muscle! Tom Smit has met me face to face, and I was a scrawny 365 pounds then!Bruce Weldy wrote:Looks like I take biggest redneck honors at 6'1" and 245......but it's all muscle......really.....no really, I mean it....shut up - that's not funny....
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
.....and I think there was even less of you when we first met. We'll have to get together again.
TomS
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
I don't stand a chance in that competition
But if I get to travel to my relatives in Canada again, I intend to sneak away from my own family for a day and visit both of you. Not likely to happen this summer, hopefully 2014.
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
You are welcome in my humble home anytime, my friend!Tom Smit wrote:.....and I think there was even less of you when we first met. We'll have to get together again.
WOOT! WOOT!AntonZ wrote:I don't stand a chance in that competitionBut if I get to travel to my relatives in Canada again, I intend to sneak away from my own family for a day and visit both of you. Not likely to happen this summer, hopefully 2014.
I know money often seals the deal, but seriously, quality is an investment, not an expense... Grant Bunter
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Accept the fact that airtight and well-braced are more important than pretty on the inside. Bill Fitzmaurice
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Sorry for lack of response for last few days. It was my nephews 1st birthday, so I hid in the garage building stuff! 
So Sitrep: 1st T30 almost there! Created my design to route out in the mouth of the speaker (panel 7?) - a nod to AntonZ where I saw this first (and sorry Anton that I didn't post before the weekend as promised). Painted up all but the 'back' of the speaker with duratex (well, Tuff Cote) and took the speaker into the house late last night to cure the paint. That paint is lovely stuff. Looks very pro
Does stink a bit though and as I am using a (very) long handled roller to apply, the roller can slip sometimes - nothing quickly going over again doesn't fix. Will purchase detachable castors next week (atm:
) and countersink them into the 'back' of the cab (it will roll around with the mouth facing up).
The template for the recessed bit and then the results:




Have also started on 2nd T30. Using far less screws than before, as the wood is much better (proper birch 9 ply). I am tending to only use them to take out warp or hold panels in place whilst the PL (well, 'builders expanding polyurethane foam' here in the UK) dries - although I don't remove them once finished.

After starting on the 2nd T30 whilst the 1st was still being finished made me realise how much better it is to have several speakers on the go at once. If you hit a problem, you don't feel like you have to solve it there and then. You can move over to the other speaker and ponder the problem. It also means that you have something to move across to whilst the PL sets. So I decided to start on the Otops as well
It was all going swimmingly (never did understand the etymology of that), until I stuck the top (or was it the bottom
) on. Only after the PL dried did I realise that my speaker was wonky
I haven't quite figured yet out how it has come about, but I know how to fix it and will be watching out for it when I make the next one. Anyway, here's the obligatory pics:



Since I took those photos, I have cut one of the throat reflectors. It was a pain in the arse, as the reflector ends up so small you cannot screw or clamp any sort of sled to it. I ended up bodging a rig which I attached to my 'building' palette (get one - very handy
) It now means that when I cut the next one tonight, I can simply slide a bit of wood with the 1st 45° cut on it up to the jig, clamp in place and run the saw along it, and I will have a perfect cut
I will take photos tonight, but it is nothing more advanced than a couple of bits of wood - one to bring the guide up to height of the bit of wood to cut, and one to act as the guide. I screwed it to the palette and it works a treat.
I drew a quick cross section of it to give you the idea:

Having that 'overhang' of the saw guide made me think. I could make a dedicated angle cutter jig. Screw a straight guide to the palette, but with a 12mm bit of ply on each end, so that it is raised up with enough space in the middle so that you can slide in a bit of wood, clamp it at the right angle, and then cut. Something like this:
Side view:

Plan view:
EDIT: I should have written "path of saw travel" on the pic above, not just "Saw" which is pointing toward the angled white thing with the black border which is actually the piece of wood to be cut.
EDIT: The 'feet' in the top pic should be dark brown to match the bottom pic. The black is the palette or any surface to attach to.
I'll knock one up tonight to take care of my other angled cuts. I will try to remember to take photos, so that you can see it, rather than having to rely on my dodgy mspaint drawings!
Thought I'd also take a couple of photos of the garage I have taken over to create my workshop.


So that brings you all up to date. Although my typing is good, *if only* I could learn to read what you guys are writing about in this post, I might be able to be a less annoying dickface
. Now, can anyone tell me what driver is needed in a WH10, FFS!!!!! 
So Sitrep: 1st T30 almost there! Created my design to route out in the mouth of the speaker (panel 7?) - a nod to AntonZ where I saw this first (and sorry Anton that I didn't post before the weekend as promised). Painted up all but the 'back' of the speaker with duratex (well, Tuff Cote) and took the speaker into the house late last night to cure the paint. That paint is lovely stuff. Looks very pro
The template for the recessed bit and then the results:




Have also started on 2nd T30. Using far less screws than before, as the wood is much better (proper birch 9 ply). I am tending to only use them to take out warp or hold panels in place whilst the PL (well, 'builders expanding polyurethane foam' here in the UK) dries - although I don't remove them once finished.

After starting on the 2nd T30 whilst the 1st was still being finished made me realise how much better it is to have several speakers on the go at once. If you hit a problem, you don't feel like you have to solve it there and then. You can move over to the other speaker and ponder the problem. It also means that you have something to move across to whilst the PL sets. So I decided to start on the Otops as well



Since I took those photos, I have cut one of the throat reflectors. It was a pain in the arse, as the reflector ends up so small you cannot screw or clamp any sort of sled to it. I ended up bodging a rig which I attached to my 'building' palette (get one - very handy
I drew a quick cross section of it to give you the idea:

Having that 'overhang' of the saw guide made me think. I could make a dedicated angle cutter jig. Screw a straight guide to the palette, but with a 12mm bit of ply on each end, so that it is raised up with enough space in the middle so that you can slide in a bit of wood, clamp it at the right angle, and then cut. Something like this:
Side view:

Plan view:
EDIT: I should have written "path of saw travel" on the pic above, not just "Saw" which is pointing toward the angled white thing with the black border which is actually the piece of wood to be cut.
EDIT: The 'feet' in the top pic should be dark brown to match the bottom pic. The black is the palette or any surface to attach to.
I'll knock one up tonight to take care of my other angled cuts. I will try to remember to take photos, so that you can see it, rather than having to rely on my dodgy mspaint drawings!
Thought I'd also take a couple of photos of the garage I have taken over to create my workshop.


So that brings you all up to date. Although my typing is good, *if only* I could learn to read what you guys are writing about in this post, I might be able to be a less annoying dickface
- Bas Gooiker
- Posts: 752
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2012 5:05 pm
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Beta 10a or premium would be Deltalite 2510.escapemcp wrote:Now, can anyone tell me what driver is needed in a WH10, FFS!!!!!
Life is just a game, don't take it to seriously!
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Bas Gooiker wrote:Beta 10a or premium would be Deltalite 2510.escapemcp wrote:Now, can anyone tell me what driver is needed in a WH10, FFS!!!!!
Now, one more time.. recommended driver for WH10?
Think I've got it now
Thanks y'all.
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Bas Gooiker wrote:Beta 10a or premium would be Deltalite 2510.escapemcp wrote:Now, can anyone tell me what driver is needed in a WH10, FFS!!!!!

...unless I've missed the joke in the joke...
4xOT12s, 2xT39s@22", TTLS@18", 2xT60@18"
-
Grant Bunter
- Posts: 6912
- Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2011 11:12 am
- Location: Ilfracombe Queensland Australia
- Contact:
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
That's a great logo for your cabs, well done!
Built:
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
DR 250: x 2 melded array, 2x CD horn, March 2012 plans.
T39's: 4 x 20" KL3010LF , 2 x 28" 3012LF.
WH8: x 6 with melded array wired series/parallel.
Bunter's Audio and Lighting "like"s would be most appreciated...
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
+1Grant Bunter wrote:That's a great logo for your cabs, well done!
I totally love it
Do you have a design of the logo available in a computer drawing? If you do (and you don't mind sharing it), please send it over.
Biggest compliment one can get, others copying ones approach and making it look yet better and more pro. And to give credit where credit is due: I stole the idea from Dave Perry.
Well done, you are building some great looking cabs.
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Um... it isn't a company logo. I wanted to put something on the sloped cab front, but didn't want to put my "T&L" on it, as the cabs *may* sometimes be used 'upright' (with the driver pointing down), which would rotate the lettersAntonZ wrote:+1Grant Bunter wrote:That's a great logo for your cabs, well done!
I totally love it![]()
Do you have a design of the logo available in a computer drawing? If you do (and you don't mind sharing it), please send it over.
Biggest compliment one can get, others copying ones approach and making it look yet better and more pro. And to give credit where credit is due: I stole the idea from Dave Perry.
Well done, you are building some great looking cabs.
I do like the way the driver in the logo is the same orientation as the driver in the cab, and the 'sound pressure waves' are toward the mouth of the horn. It just seemed to work. I was considering trying to route a 'front on' view of a speaker complete with sloping cone and raised rounded dustcap, but I figured that this was way too ambitious for my first route! It would also have required a load of sanding after rough cutting, so passed on that idea (for now!) - not sure if the limited depth of the route would show the slope of the cone well enough or not.
The tops will have "T&L" (Thunder & Lighting - the name of the free party rig) routed on the side as they will always be upright. I bloody love that router - my #1 power tool!
Re: New Build - T30s and then Otops to follow
Noooooo... I want the best looking speaker logo cab!!AntonZ wrote:Biggest compliment one can get, others copying ones approach and making it look yet better and more pro.
Thanks to Dave as well then. We are all standing on the shoulders of giants anyway - until you get to Yoda of course, he's tiny!AntonZ wrote: And to give credit where credit is due: I stole the idea from Dave Perry.