Modern driver options for Table Tuba build?

[Bruce Weldy]

Thank you guys! All your replies are very much appreciated.

I got this amp: https://www.ebay.com/itm/176034779249 ad is not mine.

It is 2x100wrms @8ohm, or 2x150wrms @4ohm and bridgeable at 300wrms @8 ohm.

Is it a valid point to choose a 8 ohm driver and bridge it?

Thanks.

Never heard of the brand and most likely, the published specs are exagerated. However, you shouldn't be pushing anywhere near 150 watts to be overbearing in a normal sized room in the house. Before bridging, see if it is loud enough. Remember, you are dealing with a folded horn - if you think you'll hear it farting out when it gets near the edge - you won't. Get it loud enough to do what you want and try to refrain from "Hey guys! Watch this!".

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https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Focal/SUB_P25FE, its about twice the price, but 14mm xmax instead of 8,3mm on the Dayton driver.
Is a larger xmax desirable?

It is, but unless you plan on using yours for a stadium concert you'll never make use of it. The Dayton LS10-44 is as much driver as anyone needs.

God evening!

Thank you for your insight Bill.

I've now located a shop that sell them the Dayton LS10-44 over here for $192 plus shipping.

It might be the chosen one!

I am looking forward to get started on this project!



Edit: I just noticed the Dayton LS10-44 is a dual 4ohm voice coil speaker, so my amp might run one channel per voice coil @150wrms,

Or, in series @8ohm and bridged amp into one channel @300wrms.

(Parallel connection and 2ohm's is not an option here)

I'll leave my amp dialog here.


Thanks for all your help guys!

[Bill Fitzmaurice]

Some of us might be able to make recommendations based on where 'over here' is, but not if we don't know where that is.

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Some of us might be able to make recommendations based on where 'over here' is, but not if we don't know where that is.

Valid point.
Here, is Norway, Europe.