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Re: DR build questions
Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2023 2:37 am
by Keryn O'Shea
Grant Bunter wrote: ↑Mon Sep 25, 2023 4:40 pm
..It seemed counter intuitive to ensure a leak proof horn, then drill a big enough hole in it!
I've felt that way a couple of occasions too
I route channels in the bottom for HF wires on the Jacks & O-Tops, bringing it up behind the HF brace, maybe I could try in on a DR..?
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2023 9:09 pm
by howiez
Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Wed Sep 27, 2023 2:37 am
I route channels in the bottom for HF wires on the Jacks & O-Tops, bringing it up behind the HF brace, maybe I could try in on a DR..?
I tried 'the opposite' of routing a channel in the bottom on my DR200 build. I routed a small chunk of ply with a channel for wire. Then I beveled it to lay against the throat flare. I started with though of the first picture in the link below. Then I had a second thought and cut it to match the butt-cheeks and used that to help glue them in. After it was all glued up I used a long electricians drill bit, laid it on the bottom between the butt-cheeks and drilled into my channel and through the throat horn into the driver chamber.
I'll try to link my post...
DR200 wire channel
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Thu Sep 28, 2023 3:38 pm
by Keryn O'Shea
howiez wrote: ↑Wed Sep 27, 2023 9:09 pm
..I routed a small chunk of ply with a channel for wire...
That's an interesting mod Howeiz!
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2023 3:01 am
by Keryn O'Shea
Would Eminence co-axial series Neo woofers like the KL3012CX-8 and KL3015CX-8 used without a HF diver, be unsuitable for DRs and Titans for the open rear of the magnet? The specs looks ok, but I'm off reservation.. could the HF driver port be plugged?

Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2023 3:50 am
by Keryn O'Shea
Looks like we're going to find out.. we have to jump on anything close to spec here, so if it seems silly to try this, keep in mind we have no Parts Express, or anyone stocking practically any driver we need!
The cap is see through on the CX's as shown, like a glued/pressed fabric. If l look in the vent at the rear of the 3015LF with a torch l can see the back of its cap, could l glue a paper cap on the CX, fit mesh to its vent and give it a try? Adding weight to the cone... yes l know that's not the best, however l bought these new here for $300ea including freight.
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2023 6:45 am
by Bill Fitzmaurice
I'd do just that.
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Oct 09, 2023 2:51 pm
by Keryn O'Shea
Excellent!

Re: DR build questions
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2023 2:26 am
by Keryn O'Shea
The caps showed up finally, l used a Starbond rubberised CA adhesive from Hammeroo, the same guys who stock Unobond. Would two hours of 30hz at 12v be enough to see if they want to fly off?
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2023 8:01 am
by Bill Fitzmaurice
The normal break in would suffice.
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 1:29 am
by Keryn O'Shea
Ok will do, thank you. 1x DR and T48 operational, tested & working well, I'll paint the outside of all cabs in one go once the other 3 subs & DR are completed apart from diffuser and waiting on black mounting strips for the melded array. It was wicked to finally hear the 280, soo loud & clear! The DR handles on all four corners work well too, and to me don't look out of place. What do you guys think?
I bought a Dayton UMM-6 mic and downloaded REW, which should have happened 10 years ago, so I'll fit the KL3015CX in the next T48 built, (this one is 3015LF loaded) measure both and report back.
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 4:07 pm
by Seth
Looking darn good Keryn

Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 5:54 am
by Keryn O'Shea
Seth wrote: ↑Sun Nov 12, 2023 4:07 pm
Looking darn good Keryn
Thanks mate! Still a fair amount of finish work to be done yet. I'm looking for a way to protect the cab paint, and clear the plastic corners from the ground stacking brackets, I'm using large penny washers to space it away atm, that's why there's no bottom to the plate as yet.
Painting the cab from the inside as l go has been challenging also, duratex in the horn with three differently bent long handles and a cut down textured roller, then flat black sprayed on the inside of the rear panels before assembly.
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 11:19 am
by AntonZ
Keryn O'Shea wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2023 5:54 amThanks mate! Still a fair amount of finish work to be done yet. I'm looking for a way to protect the cab paint, and clear the plastic corners from the ground stacking brackets, I'm using large penny washers to space it away atm, that's why there's no bottom to the plate as yet.
You might look into 3D printing some washers of the required thickness for spacers. If the inside diameter is printed just a tad small then they will not fall off your thumb screws. Don't know if you have a printer, or if you happen to know someone who could print this for you.
BTW: the size of that T48 says it means business. Verrrrry nice

Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 2:50 pm
by Rich4349
AntonZ wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2023 11:19 am
BTW: the size of that T48 says it means business. Verrrrry nice
(Minor threadjacking: would building a 48" flared section for the mouth of a 24" wide Titan increase performance any? Maybe a few dBs at the lower cutoff?)
Re: DR build questions
Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2023 4:05 pm
by Seth
Rich4349 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2023 2:50 pm
AntonZ wrote: ↑Mon Nov 13, 2023 11:19 am
BTW: the size of that T48 says it means business. Verrrrry nice
(Minor threadjacking: would building a 48" flared section for the mouth of a 24" wide Titan increase performance any? Maybe a few dBs at the lower cutoff?)
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