BillFitzmaurice.info

If you do it that way then the width of the box will be determined by the width of the baffle, not the width of the top and bottom. You won't be able to use the method shown in the plans to get perfect joints with no overhang or underhang of the top and bottom unless you cut all the parts with a degree of accuracy that few of us possess, especially as the actual thickness of the plywood also affects the result. If we were using non-expanding woodworking glue then there would be an advantage to jumping through those hoops, but we aren't.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:If you do it that way then the width of the box will be determined by the width of the baffle, not the width of the top and bottom. You won't be able to use the method shown in the plans to get perfect joints with no overhang or underhang of the top and bottom unless you cut all the parts with a degree of accuracy that few of us possess, especially as the actual thickness of the plywood also affects the result. If we were using non-expanding woodworking glue then there would be an advantage to jumping through those hoops, but we aren't.

Thank you sir.

Making the router jig
I removed the plastic base from the router and used that as a template on the scrap piece of plywood I am using a a jig. Then I drilled out the screw holes to be able to attach the jig to the router as well as cut out the center for the router bit. I scribed a circle on the baffle using a compass and then started a nail in the center to make a hole to use as a guide when setting the jig. I removed the nail and transferred it to the jig. Finally I double checked the distance from the outside of the router bit to the nail.

Cutting the speaker holes using my homemade circle jig for my router. I neglected to get pictures of this set-up but I simply inserted the nail through the hole on the circle jig, hammered the nail though the center of the circle for the speaker hole using the hole I made previously to center it, and all the way through the wooden top of my work bench leaving enough overhang for the router bit to clear the edge of the workbench. It worked like a charm. I did have to do about sixty seconds of filing where the circle began and terminated as there was a little material there that did not get completely routed.
Next up a test fit of the speaker and I could not be more pleased with the fit.

My router jig is similar, but I don't use a base underneath the plywood, I use the plywood only, screwed to the router frame.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:My router jig is similar, but I don't use a base underneath the plywood, I use the plywood only, screwed to the router frame.

I thought about not using the router base but the wood I used for the jig was pretty thin and I was not sure how well it would hold if I counter-sunk the screws. I may make a nice jig down the road but I was kind of in a hurry and used what I had on hand. It turned out lot better than free hand with a jigsaw so I cannot complain.

I got the baffles installed last night and brought the cabinets inside as temperatures are starting to dip at night here. I know the plans call for the flat jigs to be installed on the inside of the cabinet but I choose to do them from the outside and used c-clamps to hold them in place. I ripped one inch wide pieces of BB plywood and wrapped them with saran wrap before clamping them in place. As referenced in previous post I ran the baffles through my table saw again taking just a hair off each edge to allow them to fit easily and have room for the PL. I applied the PL to the cabinet on the inside and dropped the baffles into place making sure to have them properly oriented with the speakers closest to each other when stacked. I followed up with another light bead of PL to make sure I got the seams completely filled in.

This morning (hey the thread is finally current - for the moment!) I removed the flat jigs and inspected the baffles and everything looked good. I will need to scrape ways excess PL from the baffles and cabinet but overall everything looked good.
I scraped a little PL away from the joints where I would be installing the vent ports so that they would sit flush against the walls of the cabinet. I installed the vent ports and used finish nails to hold them in place while the PL cured.
And here's a gratuitous teaser shot:
This morning I managed to drop by Walmart and picked up some non-memory foam mattress topper to line the cabinets with. Tomorrow I will try and find time to scrape PL, cut the interior braces, and get the speaker screw cleats installed. Probably ought to cut the jack plate and get the Speakon connectors installed in those and wired.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:My router jig is similar, but I don't use a base underneath the plywood, I use the plywood only, screwed to the router frame.

Mine was made from some old paneling.....1/4 inch was still thick enough to countersink the screws.

A couple of years back, I finally sprung for the fancy plastic job......lots easier to use and the measurements are already done for you.

Temporarily set the speaker in place so that I could use a transfer punch to mark the screw holes.
Then flipped the cabinets over and installed the speaker mounting cleats.

Dimples for locating the speaker attachment screws. Note that the excess PL has been scraped away as well.

Had a bit of a set back yesterday while doing a final clean up of the excess PL with a sharp chisel. I had moved the cabinets from the garage into my basement as temperatures have dipped here and the garage is no longer conducive for assembly. While flipping one cabinet over on the carpet I heard an odd noise almost like a "buzz" or rattle. After about twenty minutes of investigation I traced it down to one of the vent ports I had installed the previous day. It turned out that I had not applied enough PL to one of the mating surfaces. While really disappointed in my error I took hope in the discovery that the portion without enough PL was accessible and could probably be repaired. In my haste to fix it and move on I neglected to take pictures and so I apologize for that.

I started by prying the gap open a little and inserted a nail to hold it open. Using a razor blade and a wire rod I forced PL into the gap as best as I could from both the vent port side and the speaker side. I let it sit for about fifteen minutes and then removed the nail. After letting it sit overnight I checked it this morning and no more rattle/buzz noise even with vigorous meetings with the carpet. Looks ugly as sin but it will be hidden and I learned an invaluable lesson in the process.

Built a jig for my router so I can make the holes for the speaker jacks which I will route out tomorrow.

Das Jugghead wrote: Actually, to be more accurate, my wife pulled the trigger by ordering several designs for my birthday.

Didn't read this line earlier... Don't loose that one, she's "a keeper"! <3<3<3

Padde298 wrote:

Das Jugghead wrote: Actually, to be more accurate, my wife pulled the trigger by ordering several designs for my birthday.

Didn't read this line earlier... Don't loose that one, she's "a keeper"! <3<3<3

Indeed she is. Trust me, I know how lucky I am.