BillFitzmaurice.info

For the price they can't be beat....

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-15497

Sommer cable makes all kind of things to fit the holes: Indicators, switches, 1/8" stereo jacks, etc....

BrentEvans wrote:Thats what pop rivets are for.

I thought about that but I always seem to be rearranging stuff and drilling out pop rivets is kinda a pain.

Rune Bivrin wrote: That's why Neutrik created these:

Those are pretty clever. I will have to order some for next time.

Rune Bivrin wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:

Rune Bivrin wrote: That's why Neutrik created these:

http://www.neutrik.com/en/phono-rca/pho ... sories/mfd

Ok...I guess I'm not smart enough to figure it out....how does that attach to the panel? Looked at the technical drawings and still don't get it.

Does it just go behind the rack panel? If so, you still have the issue of getting the small holes just right or it will rack the screw....and that it what makes getting the nut on complicated.

Yup. Right behind the panel. I suppose if you've got lumberjack hands it might be tricky, but I never really noticed. Getting separate M3 nuts there is much harder, but since these position the threads at the correct angle by default it is really quite trivial.

Right behind the neutrik is how I use them (and I think how they are supposed to be used - they clip onto the connectors and you forget they are even there):



Then attach neutrik BEHIND the panel. Looks neater and attachment is SO simple (just screw them up). If you need to rearrange your connections then you don't have the trouble of having the wire going through the hole in the patch panel... simply unscrew, move and rescrew back up. Job done

You can sort of see the result in one my previous posts in this thread.

escapemcp wrote: Then attach neutrik BEHIND the panel. Looks neater and attachment is SO simple (just screw them up). If you need to rearrange your connections then you don't have the trouble of having the wire going through the hole in the patch panel... simply unscrew, move and rescrew back up. Job done

You can sort of see the result in one my previous posts in this thread.

Ahhhhhhhh......now I get it!

That would have to be with a pre-punched panel or one that is cut with a punch. My drilled holes are not nearly pretty enough to put the connector behind.

escapemcp wrote: Right behind the neutrik is how I use them (and I think how they are supposed to be used - they clip onto the connectors and you forget they are even there):



Then attach neutrik BEHIND the panel. Looks neater and attachment is SO simple (just screw them up). If you need to rearrange your connections then you don't have the trouble of having the wire going through the hole in the patch panel... simply unscrew, move and rescrew back up. Job done

You can sort of see the result in one my previous posts in this thread.

You know, I hadn't really thought of that. Works either way, I suppose, as long as your panel isn't too thick. If you can countersink the holes in the panel your way can be way neater.

Thanks everyone, some really useful pointers, the pre-punched panels and the mfd fixing plates look neat.
And thanks Grant for the links about gauge/distance/loss.

In the UK, speaker cable seems to be most commonly available in 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4mm diameters (haven't seen anything inbetween).
If I'm not mistaken this roughly correlates to AWG 15, 10 and 6 respectively (SWG 17, 12 and 8, but I'm guessing you guys deal in AWG).

Most people seem to be suggesting to run 12-14g cable from amp to speaker - I'm going to have to choose between 10 and 15, and from reading Grant's links, I'm inclined to go for 10.
It's going to be pretty small system (at least intially) and I'm not anticipating ever having to run cable longer than 10-15m, so it's probably not going to make much of a difference either way, but wanted to check in case there's a reason the 15g would be the better choice....

monekh wrote:Thanks everyone, some really useful pointers, the pre-punched panels and the mfd fixing plates look neat.
And thanks Grant for the links about gauge/distance/loss.

In the UK, speaker cable seems to be most commonly available in 1.5mm, 2.5mm and 4mm diameters (haven't seen anything inbetween).
If I'm not mistaken this roughly correlates to AWG 15, 10 and 6 respectively (SWG 17, 12 and 8, but I'm guessing you guys deal in AWG).

Most people seem to be suggesting to run 12-14g cable from amp to speaker - I'm going to have to choose between 10 and 15, and from reading Grant's links, I'm inclined to go for 10.
It's going to be pretty small system (at least intially) and I'm not anticipating ever having to run cable longer than 10-15m, so it's probably not going to make much of a difference either way, but wanted to check in case there's a reason the 15g would be the better choice....

Always go bigger instead of smaller. If you can't get the 2.0mm - go with the 2.5.

Better to go on area (ie mm squared) rather than diameter to work out the equivalent gauge.

Here's another handy chart for you:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/awg-w ... d_731.html

Nice. I'd always wondered what was the standard on which the AWG was 'based'. I have just checked Wikipedia and apparently it's the number of times that the wire had to be drawn through dies.. so 20AWG was drawn 20 times through progressively smaller dies. Thought it interesting enough to post, although I expect quite a few of you already knew (especially the US builders who deal AWG with rather than mm²)

escapemcp wrote:Nice. I'd always wondered what was the standard on which the AWG was 'based'. I have just checked Wikipedia and apparently it's the number of times that the wire had to be drawn through dies.. so 20AWG was drawn 20 times through progressively smaller dies. Thought it interesting enough to post, although I expect quite a few of you already knew (especially the US builders who deal AWG with rather than mm²)

I just Googled a Gauge to MM conversion calculator......you know, if it's on the innerweb thingy, it's got to be true.

Oh. You mean it's not like shotgun gauges?