BillFitzmaurice.info

Bruce Weldy wrote: maybe I'm missing something here.

Probably plans from the last year or so, since the flat and right angle jig method of building them was included.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote: maybe I'm missing something here.

Probably plans from the last year or so, since the flat and right angle jig method of building them was included.

That would be the case. Thanks.

I just used the jigs as is with bar soap, worked like a charm. First day was able to get through panel 6. Just about to put the final panel on just waiting for paint to dry in the horn mouth.

My question now is if I can mount the driver before putting the other side on? It would make it much easier to mount and I could seal the entire gasket with caulk.

Any thoughts?

Also, this went together so much faster than I thought. My only previous build was a "mini-boominator" from DIY Audio. Got the Auraco plywood, used a table saw with the jigs designed by Bill, Jigsaw, and a circular saw. Held it together with a brad nailer.

Thanks in advance to Bill for the design and easy to follow plans.

Will post pictures when done.

I wouldn't mount the driver in at this point. It'll be prone to damage and dust, not to mention more awkward for moving around during the build.

BlackLabel2 wrote: My question now is if I can mount the driver before putting the other side on? It would make it much easier to mount and I could seal the entire gasket with caulk.
Any thoughts?

Sure, assuming you have a transporter to beam the driver out of the cab if a problem should ever arise.

Whoa, was he suggesting to install the driver, close the box up and not have an access panel?

By sealing the driver in during assembly, this cabinet is a throw away if the driver ever goes bad, or you find you have a leak when you test it. By putting the driver in first, you also risk the chance of dripping PL on it when you assemble. If you put the driver in last, you can always PL or caulk the access panel back in place, that way you could at least cut the access panel back out with a razor knife if you had to. I seal my gap around the installed access panel with clear latex caulk. It is invisible when dry, not that hard to cut out with a razor knife, and seals great.

Here is my version of a brace. I picked up this rusty square for $2 and drilled the square to attach braces that screw to cabs with no clamps. Set the bottom corner brace in at least 1/2" from the corner so it doesn't come in contact with PL, mine is too close. If the steel corner gets in the PL, it is no problem to pull out after it is dry.





This is rock solid when screwed in place. It is not strong enough to straighten panels, the steel square will bend if you put enough force on it.

I picked up a pair of these and use them for clamping right angle squares. More expensive than Bruce's but they work well as a rafter square.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-Magnu ... /100174397

Pretty sure he has an access panel cut out. He just wants to install the driver before the side panel goes on so he can reach the driver from both sides. I did that with my AT build recently and it was fine.

caddylackn: Great idea on the caulk around the access panel. Mine sit slightly in of the side panel so it's not smooth all the way across. Wouldn't really fix that, but I might sleep better.

At long last here are the pictures. Got the sub finished and had a plywood box for awhile.... Life got in the way with the end of summer and school starting up for the kids. Now I have a black plywood box that need DuraTex added.

As a review, this subwoofer sounds awesome. I had a Definitive Technology ProCinema Pro Sub 100 in my home theater before. I got to do a head to head listen comparison and it isn't even close. Couldn't be happier with the build, except I know I am going to have to build a THT once I talk my wife into a 3 foot tall subwoofer.

Anyway, here are some pictures.

And more pictures.

These picture lead up to the plywood box I had in my house for several days.

For the final side I used finishing nails with the heads cut off as guides while lowering on the last side. Read that tip on some build here in the forum and it worked for me.

Overall it was almost perfectly square, I think my main problem was not accounting for the correct thickness of the plywood on the layout.

I can't say enough about the ACX plywood, very straight and much cheaper than Baltic Birch.

Closing and sealing the access door actually was harder than I thought. A 20 Hz sine way at 10 volts easily pushed through weather stripping, even after cranking down the screws. I was concerned I was going to strip the flanges. I ended up sealing the door with caulk, and if I have to get in there I am going to have to cut my way in. But the caulk worked well, no leaks anywhere.

I just primed the box with flat black paint (much cheaper), and still have to apply DuraTex. It says you can add water for a more "orange peel" look. Any idea on how much water is good?