BillFitzmaurice.info

Nice.

Why do I have so many designs on the 'to build' list?

Got it screwed together (dry fit)and installed jackplate and tophat

Could not find my caulk gun, will have to pick another one up tmrw.

Looking great and it's really cool to see a CNC-cut "kit" going together.

And you can't go wrong building your own cables, especially not when using quality wire and connectors. Half the price of prebuilt, unless you score some incredibly awesome deal. I've even found that it can be cheaper buying a premade cable made of decent cable w/crappy connectors, buying Speakons and replacing the garbage connectors with them.

Glued up yesterday (except for back panel). Looking for my damn chisel.... Had it 2 days ago to widen the dado grooves and cant seem to find it now

sine143 wrote:Glued up yesterday (except for back panel). Looking for my damn chisel.... Had it 2 days ago to widen the dado grooves and cant seem to find it now

Looking great so far sine143
Awesome to see a CNC cut cab.

Your chisel is over there under that thingamewhatsit, should be easier to see, as there isn't so much sawdust around this build...

Haha, generally i would go to my shop, but im stuck in town this week for work and the shop is 2 hours away, so im making due building on the front step of my 450 sq foot apartment (thats packed to the gills with 4x ot12, 6xt48s)


Things get lost realllll easily in there

What is the Xmax on those Dayton drivers ? P.E.'s site doesn't list it and i went to the Dayton site and they listed it as xmax "0" I just sold some old JBL MR822 speakers i had for $250 ,that will fund me some SLA Pro's and i already have enough wood left over from my T48 build.

djtrumptight wrote:What is the Xmax on those Dayton drivers ? P.E.'s site doesn't list it and i went to the Dayton site and they listed it as xmax "0"

dj . . you haven't read this whole thread, have you?!

hahaha, I was going to post that last night but I was too lazy to type it on my phone :p

anyways, got the first few coats of duratex on this one.

anyone have any tips for applying a smooth duratex finish? I'm getting orange peel

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:

sine143 wrote:Digging up forum posts from pre 2010 it seems many people are infering that the published xmax spec at the time for the alpha 6 was ALSO 0 mm (as they are both underhung designs).

True, where mathematical xmax is concerned, as there is no voice coil overhang with an underhung coil. Eminence now measures xmax as 10% THD via Klippel analysis, giving the Alpha 6 an xmax of 3.5mm.

No more reading for me at 3 a.m.,i saved my cart at P.E.,i didnt wanna order something that wouldnt give me the performance i need.

sine143 wrote: anyways, got the first few coats of duratex on this one.

anyone have any tips for applying a smooth duratex finish? I'm getting orange peel

Are you spraying the cabs?

Even if not:
To get rid of orange peel you need sand down to at least 600 grit until smooth before the next coat, and keep doing so for all except the last coat...

I'm Rolling it on. using one of these suckers



honestly its not *too* bad with the orange peel. very much reminiscent of the JBL PRX series (which I did some work on for a friend today, Blown woofer in his PRX 518s). I was just trying to achieve sheetrock wall smoothness....

You'll get it, with lots of sanding and more coats...

+1 it's a lot of work to get such a smooth finnish . did it on my tlah's and really found it worth while.

greetz ketoet

sine143 wrote: anyone have any tips for applying a smooth duratex finish? I'm getting orange peel

It's supposed to do that, the tex in DuraTex stands for 'texture'.