1st Build 2x Tuba 24

[DJPhatman]

Leave them as singles. If you aquire 2 more drivers, build 2 more cabs, as 4 singles will net you more than 2 double loaded.

May I ask, why did you build T24 with the 3010LF instead of the T39 with the 3012LF? Sorry but my curiosity makes me ask.

[nouvo1]

Great point on the 4 single loaded cabs. The purpose of the T24s was that I have 2 QSC HPR122is that are sitting on end tables that are 24 inches tall in my music room. It needed a sub(s) for a while and I finally decided to just build them. I will probably replace or repurpose the HPRs with some otop 12s. Because I'm sure this will be brought up, these will be corner loaded. I'll post some pics showing where these will be placed.

[nouvo1]

I got the first 3 panels installed today on my first cabinet. I finished sanding on both the spacers (that's a lot more work than anticipated. I thought for sure I'd have no slapping and I was dead wrong... poor jigsaw skills at the moment, may my next BFM build be better than this). I'm currently listening to the drivers being broken in as I write this. Tomorrow I'm going to do panels 1-3 on box 2 and hopefully (fingers crossed) the rest of box 1 glued up. Here are some pics from today. Oh... and today was my first experience with PL... uh... not my favorite adhesive, but it's properties are worth it... is what I keep telling myself. I finally have vertical development on this, which is a huge step in the right direction. Not as difficult as I thought.

[67baja]

As your PL skill increases, you will appreciate it more (and hate it less). But no matter how good you get with PL, you will still get it on places you won't want it on (hands, arm hair, face, socks, big globs stuck to the bottom of your shoe, etc).

[jimbo7]

Invest in a router and make a circle jig. Nothing better than cutting out perfect circles the first time.

[ecut1]

I found it very helpful to dry fit every panel. I used #6 screws - 1.25" long. I used three to four screws per panel and pre-drilled each hole an inch deep. Once the PL cured I removed the screws and filled the hole with PL and a bondo knife. By dry fitting the panel before squeezing out any PL I was able to stay very mess free on the PL. That panel won't go anywhere when you drive the screw back into the hole you made on the dry fit. It was much easier than my original game plan which was to clamp everything in place while the PL dried.

[jimbo7]

I found it very helpful to dry fit every panel. I used #6 screws - 1.25" long. I used three to four screws per panel and pre-drilled each hole an inch deep. Once the PL cured I removed the screws and filled the hole with PL and a bondo knife. By dry fitting the panel before squeezing out any PL I was able to stay very mess free on the PL. That panel won't go anywhere when you drive the screw back into the hole you made on the dry fit. It was much easier than my original game plan which was to clamp everything in place while the PL dried.

+1 that's what the plans say

[nouvo1]

Got a little more work done tonight. A few more panels installed and got ALL the rest of the panels and braces cut. Since this is a 24" wide cabinet, should I use 1 or 2 braces? I was thinking one, then when I held up a brace against the cabinet, I thought maybe 2 would be better. So far I'd decided on one brace on the 2 smallest sections and then 2 on the rest including the opening. Opinions? I'm off all day tomorrow. The goal is to finish cab 1 with the exception of closing it up with the side panel and getting as much done on cab 2 as possible.

[Grant Bunter]

Since this is a 24" wide cabinet, should I use 1 or 2 braces? I was thinking one, then when I held up a brace against the cabinet, I thought maybe 2 would be better. So far I'd decided on one brace on the 2 smallest sections and then 2 on the rest including the opening. Opinions?

Opinions aren't required.
It's all in the plans:

"Braces connect the panels. The may be made of one-quarter to one-half inch plywood. They may be drilled or sawn with holes to lighten the cabinet. The braces are spaced no more than about 8 inches apart. A single brace is adequate for 16 inch wide panels. Use two sets for 17 to 25 inch panels".

And:
"Panel 3/5 brace is not used with a 1x10 cab".

It's been shown before that not installing braces as per the plans can cost 3dB in output (due to panels flexing).
That 3 dB is like picking up one of your 2 cabs once the build is finished, and throwing it away!

[MissileCrisis]

Since this is a 24" wide cabinet, should I use 1 or 2 braces? I was thinking one, then when I held up a brace against the cabinet, I thought maybe 2 would be better. So far I'd decided on one brace on the 2 smallest sections and then 2 on the rest including the opening. Opinions?

Opinions aren't required.
It's all in the plans:

"Braces connect the panels. The may be made of one-quarter to one-half inch plywood. They may be drilled or sawn with holes to lighten the cabinet. The braces are spaced no more than about 8 inches apart. A single brace is adequate for 16 inch wide panels. Use two sets for 17 to 25 inch panels".

And:
"Panel 3/5 brace is not used with a 1x10 cab".

It's been shown before that not installing braces as per the plans can cost 3dB in output (due to panels flexing).
That 3 dB is like picking up one of your 2 cabs once the build is finished, and throwing it away!

+1 skimping on braces will hurt in the end, cab rigidity is one of the points I brag on all the time, I'm confident that if girls want to dance on the sub (and they aren't wearing spikes) they should damn well be able to without me having to worry .

[nouvo1]

Since this is a 24" wide cabinet, should I use 1 or 2 braces? I was thinking one, then when I held up a brace against the cabinet, I thought maybe 2 would be better. So far I'd decided on one brace on the 2 smallest sections and then 2 on the rest including the opening. Opinions?

Opinions aren't required.
It's all in the plans:

"Braces connect the panels. The may be made of one-quarter to one-half inch plywood. They may be drilled or sawn with holes to lighten the cabinet. The braces are spaced no more than about 8 inches apart. A single brace is adequate for 16 inch wide panels. Use two sets for 17 to 25 inch panels".

And:
"Panel 3/5 brace is not used with a 1x10 cab".

It's been shown before that not installing braces as per the plans can cost 3dB in output (due to panels flexing).
That 3 dB is like picking up one of your 2 cabs once the build is finished, and throwing it away!

+1 skimping on braces will hurt in the end, cab rigidity is one of the points I brag on all the time, I'm confident that if girls want to dance on the sub (and they aren't wearing spikes) they should damn well be able to without me having to worry .

I'd been looking for that info, and just found it, right there in that plans. I must be more diligent on the details. Thanks. 2 Braces it shall be. And yes I was aware regarding panel 3/5.

[nouvo1]

Tonight we did panels 7 and 8 and their respective braces. It's not pretty but it looks like it's going to be airtight. After filling, sanding, and duratex I think it will come out alright. I also drilled one of the holes for the 16gauge speaker cable. Have not yet stapled it though. Yes I'm aware there is a 1/4inch plug on the end of the cable, that's not staying on there. The local GC didn't have what I wanted in bulk without terminations. Tomorrow will be panels 9, 10, 11, and speakon jacks. Depending how things go, I might even get the second side installed, then all would be left is the flanges. Is there any reason to wait for PL to cure between the last panel and the second side going in? or before installing the driver access flanges? I haven't found anywhere in the plans where it says to wait on these. So besides being my first speaker build, this is my first build of any kind. Learning how to use tools, saws, adhesives. I've got great help though. Still getting used to being covered in sawdust all the time.

[Tom Smit]

Enjoying it, aren't ya?

[67baja]

I see no reason to wait for the pl to cure before doing the rest. That is as long as they are secured with screws or brads as well as pl to prevent them from moving while installing the next panels. I have built entire subs in a weekend - not waiting for each panel or 2 to cure.

[nouvo1]

I went ahead and finished it up today. All that's left are the flanges on the access panel, but I need some lunch first. Really looking forward to hearing this things tomorrow. It didn't quite square up perfectly with the last panels, but wasn't far off and I think some sanding and duratex will make it all blend in. We opted to build one at a time, hoping to learn from mistakes. So sub 2 will be built after the holidays at the same time I sand and paint sub 1. I'll most likely use my Crown XTI2002 amp for these.

Several hours later.

Finished putting the flanges on the access panel... easily the worst part of this build. Don't know why (ok, actually I think there is a "squaring" issue here...) but it was hard to do. I went and picked up a DBX Driverack PA+. I'd been putting off this purchase for some time, glad to have it though. I went through the setup and added settings for the XTI and the QSCs. I'm not 100% sure how to set up the limiter on it, and I think I screwed up the crossover, but I have a very knowledgeable friend stopping by tomorrow who has a lot of experience with the Driverack. I'd post pics now, but I'm exhausted and it's 2:20 am. I'll post pics tomorrow of the sub and it's placement, etc. I remember something regarding posting pics of non-BFM cabs on the forum. Is it an issue if I put up some pics of the QSCs sitting on top of the sub how it's going to go in this room? The QSCs are just staying until I build some Otops, if that makes it any better.