BillFitzmaurice.info

5x5 here.

27 here (5x5)

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:$35 for me.

My god Bill...what store do you get it from so cheap?
Lapointe Lumber up here.

Scott Brochu wrote:

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:$35 for me.

My god Bill...what store do you get it from so cheap?
Lapointe Lumber up here.

Boulia-Gorrell, Laconia, a half mile from my house. It may be more now, I haven't bought BB for a while. I do my prototyping with cheaper wood, as once tested it all gets recycled anyway.

I'm getting the 5x5 sheets here for $33.00 CAD. They actually went up since spring of 2012; at that time they were $27.00 a sheet.

What the frig?? I'm stuck in the middle.

Most of the stuff i was finding was right around 40 bucks a sheet of 5x5. So the extra 12 dollars for a 4x8 sheet to me was worth it. The nice thing being that the 4x8 was shipped direct from a cabinet wood factory.

That's some good-looking BB. As everyone stated already, do not use dadoes. You'll get to the very end and discover you can't get the second side on. These are NOT kitchen cabinets OR furniture. Certain techniques that work perfectly in that world don't work here at all. It's almost inevitable that you will have some degree of "panel shift" no matter how careful you are putting the braces in. That's OK b/c the second side seals everything up. Every single panel must be 100% air-tight and that rule cannot be bent, even a little bit. Don't be cheap with the PL. It makes a mess if you're careful with it. It makes a huge mess if you're not careful. It's messy; we all deal with it. But PL is The Magic Stuff that makes these cabs work...so to speak.

I will throw this in: If your Dad has a Kreg Jig, that would speed assembly considerably. A member here, I believe it's Ian Westwood (IIRC) built some T60s with the Kreg jig. Others have built smaller cabs with it too. After recently buying my own Kreg Jig and using it for furniture-type projects, I wish I had the thing back when I built my OTops and T48s. It would speed assembly quite a bit and would result in more accurate placement of the panels. Personally, I would not leave the screws in after the PL dries b/c there's no way to get inside the cab again should the screws loosen and vibrate. Even if you screw the panels from the side (with normal screws) the screws come out after the PL dries, so removing the Kreg screws wouldn't hurt anything. Hope that all made sense.
You obviously don't need a Kreg Jig, but after seeing some here use it on cabs, I'd have used it if I had it back then. Just a thought.

Follow the plans, IN ORDER. Don't skip ahead and try to save time by prebuilding "sub assemblies." The plans are laid out the way they are for a very good reason. What drivers are you going to use, BTW? Width of cabs? How many you building anyway? These cabs work best in pairs. So build 2,4,6, etc.

Good luck and ask plenty of questions. We're here to help.

I am planning on using the Kappa 15lf because I can't afford the Kappalite 3015lf. I do plan to start off with building two cabinets. I haven't decided quite yet how big to go. I know that the wider we go the better but I'm not quite certain what my limitations will be until we get started and cut the biggest parts first. I would prefer to make them 36 inches wide if I am remembering the plans correct.

24" (internal, or 23, 7/8) is a good width, and allows you get the most out of your 4x8 sheets. 36 would offer the best performance, but they are BIG!!. like, really big. my 30's are borderline too big.

sine143 wrote:24" (internal, or 23, 7/8) is a good width, and allows you get the most out of your 4x8 sheets. 36 would offer the best performance, but they are BIG!!. like, really big. my 30's are borderline too big.

+1. My T48's are 23" internal (24" overall) and they are BIG. I was originally planning on 29" internal (30" overall) but the cost of ply and portability changed my mind.

Glad to see you're building a pair of cabs. I'm sure you've read about v-plating; it's in your plans as well. That v-plate gets you a 3db increase in output, which is equal to an extra cab. Oh yeah, it's very worth building the v-plate.

What's the price diff b/t the 3015LF and the Kappa? It is probably very worth scrounging an extra few pennies for the premium driver. I only say "probably" b/c I don't know the specs of the Kappa off the top of my head. Being that you'll "only" have two cabs, and assuming you have enough amp to push them properly, having the premium drivers with their increased output ability might very well be worth the extra scratch.

bradn7 wrote:I I know that the wider we go the better but I'm not quite certain what my limitations will be until we get started and cut the biggest parts first. I would prefer to make them 36 inches wide if I am remembering the plans correct.

I don't know if it's been suggested yet, but, make a cardboard mockup cab to test the size.

The 3015's are 234.99 a piece and the Kappa 15lf's are about 150 a piece. So the cost extra would be going on 200 dollars more to go 3015's. I don't mind the extra weight because these will mostly be used for outdoor gigs until I get the whole system built. And most of the gigs that I get to don't have stairs or many stairs.

Just an update, I puchased 4 tubes of the PL at a cost of roughly 8 dollars a tube after tax. Tonight Dad and I are planning on getting started cutting wood and seeing chips fly.

bradn7 wrote:The 3015's are 234.99 a piece

Xmax 9.6mm, Vd 846cc

the Kappa 15lf's are about 150 a piece.

Xmax 5.5mm, Vd 471cc

I don't mind the extra weight because these will mostly be used for outdoor gigs

Weight is not what you should be considering. Read page 1 of your plans again.