BillFitzmaurice.info

Bruce Weldy wrote:We call 'em channel lock pliers.

+1. Must be a Texas thing. Everyone else calls them wrong.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-15140

Here's what it is over here....

I've found them for £80 here: http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewit ... 2924128220

Can anyone let me know the voltage limit on a 2510 loaded DR250 please?? I will probably be buying another amp soon, but it needs to be able to drive 250s, to ensure that I am future-proofed (they will be built... The only question is when

I'd just shoot for the thermal limit. You'll be buying new ears before you'll need more amp than that.

IIRC the voltage limit for a 2510 DR250 is 40V.

I use a Crown XLS 1000 for my DR's, but some say that is a tad light on, and use an XLS 1500.
That at least will give you some idea...

ncgrove wrote:

Bruce Weldy wrote:We call 'em channel lock pliers.

+1. Must be a Texas thing. Everyone else calls them wrong.

Up here in the GWN, they are either channel-locks, or water-pump pliers.

Here in Ohio we refer to the straight jaw version as Channel-Locks and the version with the --v-- in the jaws as a pair of water pump pliers.

Grant Bunter wrote:IIRC the voltage limit for a 2510 DR250 is 40V.

I use a Crown XLS 1000 for my DR's, but some say that is a tad light on, and use an XLS 1500.
That at least will give you some idea...

TYVM

General Update:
Last night I only spent an hour or so in the garage, as I was so tired from work (it's 13 hours from door to door!) PL'd one of the spacers to the baffle, using M6 bolts into the tee nuts to hold it all together whilst it expanded and dried. On the other I managed to install the final 2 tee nuts and ran the slap test and the result was... NO SLAP (Last time I had to get busy with the sandpaper for about half an hour to ensure that it was ok!). Tonight's jobs are a reverse of last night pretty well much... the slap tested baffle & spacer now need to be PL'd and the PL'd spacer & baffle needs to be slap tested. Then I think I'll start on the mouth braces if I have time. This is due to my sheet of ply needing to be squared off... I have estimated that I can squeeze out a couple of mouth braces and then square the whole sheet off to allow me to start cutting some more panels.

Found out from Meyer Timber that they don't have any BB in stock atm. I have to wait until the 20th (not too bad, as I was skint until the 18th anyway!)... it does make the 28th deadline look even more missable now! May have to opt for an October 5th party.

Update for last night:
Managed to finish both panel 3s. Despite my plans to do all the fiddly bits first, I wanted to get something significant PL'd! I therefore cut one of the sides out and then drew all over it. Tonight I will get side 1 cut and secured (and photoed). If I am really lucky I might get panel 2 on also. As I have only enough space on the building table for one sub at a time, I figured if I can get panels 1 through 4 in place then it will be absolutely rock solid and I can then move sub #1 off the table and get #2 underway also. So happy to be building again

escapemcp wrote:So overall progress this weekend (slightly slowed down by mysteriously throwing up this afternoon - no idea why, it came out the blue after I was round someone's house

Speaker building abstinence, for sure.

escapemcp wrote:Found out from Meyer Timber that they don't have any BB in stock atm. I have to wait until the 20th (not too bad, as I was skint until the 18th anyway!)...

Had to look this one up. British/Irish/Scots slang for being broke, but has a very nasty definition, taker directly from the urbandictionary.com:
"The frothy discharge of semen and fecal matter that is commonly found after intense interracial anal sex. The texture of the skint is similar to that of grape jelly. Skints will commonly occur the day following the receivers pounding. Skints are easily identifiable by the grotesque squelching sound coming from the anus."
Example: "Eww what the fuck dude you just blew a skint in my face."

Interesting definition.
Some slang makes it way around the world.
When skint showed up in this thread, it simply meant to me that escapemcp was broke, empty coffers, cupboard was bare , until payday...

Wow...I've used various non-standard dictionaries before to help me with lingo, but this one takes the cake!! I'm not quite 50, but folks around my generation just refer to the various...drying fluids as "crud." But honestly, initially I interpreted "skint" as broke, as the OP does a good job with context in his threads. I lived in Europe (not the UK though) for 5 years, so I'm used to "Brit Talk"...or English, as they would say to this "Yank."

With all these different meanings, I just want to check that this is a speaker building site, yes? I'm not signed up for some weird sex thing involving wood am I??

Anyway, last night we have some progress that is worth a picture or 3.



In the second pic the 2 screws visible were because I initially thought I'd messed up the 90° alignment, so used a second screwhole (there we go again!) to hold it in what I thought was the correct position. After changing the panel by about a mm (1/32") so that it lined up with the edge of panel 1, I realised that it was actually the cut in panel 1 that was a mm off. My angle-o-meter thingy seemed to be off all night... I realised later on that this was due to slightly warped panels. They are all within 0.3° though, and I think I was less accurate with the 24" one. With only 15" of panel, it cannot get too far out of alignment even if you are off by a few tenths of a degree. I suppose the flip side is that they will take less of a bend to tease them back into position. The final shot of the wood is a little sad... that's all I have left until at least the 20th when my local woodyard get some more BB in. At least I have panels 1-4 already cut from it, so I am thinking I can get the 2 Lab12 reducer panels (they are going in early this time ), panel 5 and the 2 'visible' braces (one for each sub) out of it.

Perhaps beefier T nuts might remove the need for predrilling holes for the spikes. Harley has previously posted pictures of crap versus decent T nuts - granted its not easy to see what youre buying sometimes from how theyre shown on the computer screen. If the small drilled holes are even slightly off they could cause the spikes to bend, no? I just belted them in with a hammer, making sure they were flat down, then trial fit the speaker with the M6 machine screws to check alignment before epoxying in, but if the holes have been marked correctly and drilled through square, all should be ok.

Good work all round! They look just like mine - you sure theyre only 16 inchers? My progress slowed due to family commitments - the subs have had to go on the altar, hopefully they wont get burned up, and i can carry on, soon.