BillFitzmaurice.info

djlivex wrote:Nice work! Can you do flat packs of the Jack 10 Lite for us here? Just curious, CNC I wish I have one! LOL

I built the CNC router about 5 years ago, to get away from laser burned parts, and have never regretted it. I've cut a LOT of kits with it, and am always finding new cool things to use it for. Do a lot of 3D signs for my wife's sign biz... A very cool 'toy', to say the least.

Grant Bunter wrote:Don,
The hours it must have taken to work out everything in CAD has certainly been worthwhile!
Looks brilliant so far...

Thanks, guys

It actually didn't THAT long, as I am doing similar stuff day in and day out for the RC biz. I'm used to taking paper plans and converting to CAD. The slots and tabs where a PITA to get figured out at first, but done so many that it is getting pretty quick. Definitely worth the effort, considering the time it will save aligning the whole thing.

I was already contacted about lite jack wood packs, so I will check with Bill, and see what all is involved to do it with his permission. Need to find out how to verify people already have the plans, etc. Plus, I can really see the alignment tabs on the subs, with all the internal work, saving an immense amount of time.

Buddy that was going to help may not be able to make it Saturday, so will probably start Sunday, plus my wife has some stuff she wants to do Saturday.

Thanks,
Don
www.eurekaaircraft.com

Leland at speakerhardware.com has rights to distribution of kits, so they would have to go through him.

Bill Fitzmaurice wrote:Leland at speakerhardware.com has rights to distribution of kits, so they would have to go through him.

Thanks, will check with Leland and see if we can make some people happy...

On another note, since the build is delayed for a day, and it looks very cool dry fit together did some dry fitting of more parts, and found some measurement issues with the J10lite plans that need to be fixed. These are from a 2 week old CD

1) On page 4, it says to draw two 14" radius arcs from A & B. Needs to say 8-3/4". Minor but will confuse builders.

2) The holes shown for the Top Hat on the bottom & duct do not line up. They are off by 3/4", which a top hot will not fit through

The question is, which one is correct for the best cabinet balance on a stand? Do I move the hole in the bottom forward, or the hole in the duct back?

Thanks

Don

eac let me know or PM me if Leland wants to deal with your CNC work, may need 4 J110 Lite, Thanks!

eac wrote:
1) On page 4, it says to draw two 14" radius arcs from A & B. Needs to say 8-3/4". Minor but will confuse builders.

Fixed, thanks.

2) The holes shown for the Top Hat on the bottom & duct do not line up. They are off by 3/4", which a top hot will not fit through

The question is, which one is correct for the best cabinet balance on a stand? Do I move the hole in the bottom forward, or the hole in the duct back?

The hole position in the duct must stay where it is. The hole in the bottom is 6 3/4 OC from the front edge.

OK, back to building... Work tends to get in the way

First here is the dry fit of the second J10 lite cut out. Many more tabs and slots, plus made the 2 inner braces one piece, with a tab on each leg going into the sides, and a tab going into the baffle.

That one is now changed in the CAD files. It doesn't go together easily with the baffle tab. The baffle hole and tab is now a small tab and a slot on the edge of the baffle, so it will slide right in, without having to move things.
Tabs on the duct, slots in the baffle. Easier to center that way...

No tabs on the Duct braces, that would be too extreme, I think (maybe not )

No tabs on the bottom and top braces, since they automatically align anyway.

I am changing things as I go, since I am building 2 more. On each one I figure what tabs work and with don't. That is also why I'm cutting 1 at a time, and testing, before cutting the next one.

The next one will also have tabs and slot to align the back braces. Not sure why I didn't add those before

here are the dry fit pics:

First 2 pics of #1 build...

Piece on top is a back brace to the hole I plugged with it's cutout. The hole was in the place the plans called for, which ended up being wrong. Made a new hole in what was the top (now the bottom) for the top hat. Didn't trust the top hat on the other side where the hole would have been moved.

The build order does change slightly, since the tabs align everything. the bottom, sides, top and baffle are done first, and then nailed, since it squares automatically.

Then the top and bottom braces are added, since they butt up against the sides and baffle.

Checked with a square after each brad, and it was perfect each time Glad I went through all the work in CAD to do the tabs..

One difference between this and my first W8 build is I am using PL on this one. Used Liquid Nails poly on the W8, and not sure which I like best yet. The PL does foam more while drying for sure, but the Liquid Nails version is way more friendly to use. The PL keeps wanting to push the nail out way after the pressure is let off, while the LN stopped right away, plus the PL is way messier to work with.

Time will tell which I stay with for the rest of my builds. I'm about to the stage of air leak testing on the W8, that may make my decision for me ....

Don

eac wrote: I built the CNC router about 5 years ago, to get away from laser burned parts, and have never regretted it.

Sorry to sidetrack, but would this be a DIY, kit, or?

kekani wrote:

eac wrote: I built the CNC router about 5 years ago, to get away from laser burned parts, and have never regretted it.

Sorry to sidetrack, but would this be a DIY, kit, or?

Kekani, I will PM you the info...

**************
Just nailed CAB #2 together. Will keep the tabs/holes in the baffle for the braces as I cut them here, since I figured out a way to put it together with them. Glue the braces to each side, the stand them up and glue in the baffle. With them standing up, the top can go on next, tying it all together, then the bottom, then nail away. Very cool.... Stopped to take a pic while gluing. then finished gluing, and put it together. Whole process, including brads, maybe 20 minutes, if that.

You may not be able to see it in the pic, but there is no light sneaking out from between the square and the cab sides. Just nailed it all together this time, then checked...

Will never use screws again if I can help it. Air nailing brads and staples is the way to go...

Don

I'm curious to know ho you achieve square tabs and slots with a ( CNC ) router bit.

Nice looking build btw

Harley wrote:I'm curious to know ho you achieve square tabs and slots with a ( CNC ) router bit.

Nice looking build btw

CamBam CAM software has an overcut to 'notch' out the inside corners.. It sends the bit at a 45 degree angle into the corner just enough to get rid of the fillet left from the radius of the bit.

Thanks for that explanation, but I am having difficulty imagining how the bit gets placed at 45 degrees to notch out that fillet.

That must be a sophisticated CNC machine you built and routs in more that two planes, correct?

Also how big is the router bit ( dia ) ?

Harley wrote:Thanks for that explanation, but I am having difficulty imagining how the bit gets placed at 45 degrees to notch out that fillet.

That must be a sophisticated CNC machine you built and routs in more that two planes, correct?

Also how big is the router bit ( dia ) ?

I use a 1/16" bit on my stuff, bigger just cuts quicker, but wastes wood since parts can't be as close together. Use 1/8" bit on 1/2" wood...

Just cuts into the corner at 45 degrees. If it changes work planes, it wouldn't help..

The blue line is the cut path. CamBam blows away everything else I've used...

Don

45 degrees on which axis? I'm not following either, but then I have zero CNC experience. Interesting to imagine though, since I have that problem with hand routing.

That is an absolutely ridiculous build though. So freaking nice it makes me want to throw mine in a bonfire and just pay you to build stuff.

eac wrote:I use a 1/16" bit on my stuff,... Use 1/8" bit on 1/2" wood...

Fat out - they are thin bits indeed. Are they special types/brands of bits?