BillFitzmaurice.info

Typically, I would strip it first one way. Then at the other point 1 cm (or less) away, I would force it back on itself. Once the two cuts have been made, I would then use a sharp knife and scrape along the copper, and peel off the insulation "tube".

Just wanted to confirm, there is no minimum distance for woofers to be from the vent in the TLAH? Is there an optimal distance though? .

Also Tom, logical approach, ill give it a go. Thanks.

Your welcome.

Start the woofer line at the top/sealed end.

Is there any negatives to having a engraved pattern across the front of my baffle? Only 2-3mm deep.

I am getting my TLAH baffles CNC'd by a friend and he said if I want I can throw a pattern over the front of them as well as doing the holes if I am interested.

Go for it!

Progress albeit slowly! 20 months to reach this stage lol.


They are so little! 3" (81mm) across.


Now, $65 in crossover components for 2x TLAH, $5 in wire, $20 in wood and $15-20 in paint and countless hours of assembly to go.

Is there much of a horizontal dispersion difference between a 6 or 9 woofer curved SLA?

And given this freq response:



Would anyone bother with tweeters?

I have them for my mains, but I don't know if they would really be necessary here as C-C distance is not such an issue.

BassMe wrote:
And given this freq response:



Would anyone bother with tweeters?

That depends on what it looks like at 45 degrees off-axis. On-axis doesn't tell the whole story.

True True.

I will use the tweeters. I have enough of the suckers kicking around.

Is there much of a difference between 6 and 9 drivers? I can't imagine it is huge.

Thank-you for the quick reply.

Is it ok to use 12 & 19mm dressed pine for the TLAH and SLA instead of 12 & 19mm pine ply?

I just have an abundance of pine I can get very cheap.

BassMe wrote:Is there a down side to making my TLAH baffles a bit thinner? Say approx 6"? Seeing as I am using 3" woofers and very smaller tweeters I dont really need all the baffle real estate is all.

Making the square version, not the triangular one.

Is the square version in the plans, or was it based on a modification you saw here on the forum? I made a square-ish version a while back, that I can't find a picture of that the moment that had a square baffle, and the width was wider at the base and narrower at the top. The way I did it was if you figure the surface area at the bottom and top of the regular TLAH, you can resize the holes to whatever shape as long as you also keep the length of the taper consistent as well.

BassMe wrote:I really want them rear mounted. Should I just screw them on and run some hot glue or silicon around them and over the screws?

Problem I am thinking of is that there will only be 6mm of wood between each tweeter hole. I can't exactly round that over very well. I guess all the tweet rounder overs would merge together through the center line.

My tweeters were rear mounted; I installed them using just hot glue and haven't had a problem, screws not entirely necessary, but not a bad idea. Now as to whether or not the 6mm of wood will hold up to a round-over is an entirely different question. I assume you want them rear mounted as to not see the diamond shape? You could route about a groove in the back of the baffle and them mount them from the back so they are not quite so far into a hole and would require less roundover. A slight chamfer may be more appropriate than a round-over in this case as it'd leave more of the wood in the middle. Easy way to check is just drill the two holes in some scrap and just see how strong it is.

BassMe wrote:Is there much of a difference between 6 and 9 drivers? I can't imagine it is huge.

No, it'll be about 1.5 dB increase in sensitivity, go with whichever is more convenient and/or wires for a better ohmage.

BassMe wrote:Is it ok to use 12 & 19mm dressed pine for the TLAH and SLA instead of 12 & 19mm pine ply?

I just have an abundance of pine I can get very cheap.

Depends on what you mean by dressed/undressed pine. The only real requirement here is that the plywood has sufficient plies to be strong and stable (19mm is probably minimum 7+ plies), and the wood is more or less void free. Think of plywood you see in kitchen cabinets. As long as it's decent wood, it'll be fine.

Thanks for all the info Charles.

Did some test work today to nail down technique etc, should have the TLAH fitted and painted tomorrow. Then the wiring and waiting for crossover components.

Obligatory picture of workshop: (not many Harleys to be found here)



Updates tomorrow Night.

Bassme,
Much as Tom said, for wiring the piezo's...

I used some ratchet type wire strippers, started in the middle of a long wire. Pulled in one spot 2 or 3 times to open out the wire cover to expose enough wire, solder on, move along. I started in the middle of the array and worked my out to each end. Quite quick doing it this way.

Looking forward to seeing your finished build

Yeah I am going to do the wiring the way you guys describe.

TLAH Baffles are drilled:


2nd one is still screwed to the back of this one. I used the first one as a template for the 2nd to plunge router it. Needless to say the first took 1.5hrs the 2nd about 10 minutes.

Forgot I had to go out this afternoon so I had to leave in a hurry after routing the 2nd one. Much more shall happen tomorrow!

Will this stuff do for stuffing the TLAH and SLA?




It is in a loose woven mat. Pure polyster. Can't really pull it apart though.