Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

Helpful hints on how to build 'em, and where to get the stuff you need.
Message
Author
User avatar
SoundInMotionDJ
Posts: 1750
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2007 1:31 pm
Location: DFW, Texas
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#16 Post by SoundInMotionDJ »

Jon Barnhardt wrote:I'm using a very in-expensive one that came as part of an air stapler/nailer combo pack. Works without problem so far.
This is what I used until it died somewhere between 10,000 and 15,000 brads. Then I bought a Porter Cable brad nailer.
el_ingeniero wrote:Not to highjack this thread, bit I have yet to figure out how to shoot brads on the joints between panels 2/4 and 5/6 on the T39.
I use 1/4" staples for the panel the panel shots. These are much easier to place accurately.
Jon Barnhardt wrote:I've found that putting a couple 2"x4"'s on edge across the final side panel using clamps on each side of the 2"x4", with the other end of the clamp grabbing the underside of my bench (under the tuba/titan) pulls everything together very tight, and can still get by with brads for the final sides...
In addition to clamping with cauls as you describe, I also shoot the brads at angles "\ / \ / \ /" This provides a LOT of resistance to pullout.

--Stan Graves
10 T39S + 10 DR200 + 1 T48

User avatar
doncolga
Posts: 1967
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2010 3:01 pm
Location: Statesboro, GA
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#17 Post by doncolga »

I just ordered a used "like new" Porter Cable from Amazon which should be here by Thursday. Woohoo!
Donny Collins
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW

bzb
Posts: 1567
Joined: Mon Oct 05, 2009 4:16 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#18 Post by bzb »

All my guns except for my stapler are PC, and I've had all of them (framing, brad, finish, and pin) for 9 years.

The stapler is a Mac. I mean Hitachi. I recently got this to build a couple chicken coops. Don't ask.

You'll love the PC stuff. I don't think I own a Porter Cable tool that I dislike.



One note about those hard angles, as well as the edges that will show:

The way I understand it from an old grizzled woodworker is that almost all nails are clipped in a manner that makes them bend a certain way (also combined with actual nailer itself). On my PC finish nailer, I have to shoot the nails perpendicular to the panel that I'm shooting INTO (as opposed to the one I'm shooting THROUGH). The nails bend to the left or right slightly.

In other words, if I shoot the nail in with the gun "lined up" with the panel I'm shooting into, the nails are more likely to bend right out of the face of the panel.

Probably easier to show with pictures. Maybe I'll add em one day to a tip :)
Bobby Shively
Purveyor of fine aged hip hop
Traktor S4 - Vestax VCI-100 - TTX - MOTU Ultralite - Yamaha 01V

Built:
T39 13" BP102, 24" 3012LF - AT - OT12 2512 - SLA Pro - T24 - Jack 10
Powered by XTi 1000 & 2000

hilo4noff
Posts: 86
Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 12:14 pm
Location: Washington Ill (near Peoria)

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#19 Post by hilo4noff »

Finally I picked up a hitachi 18 gauge brad nailer, and I can't even begin to tell you how much easier building has become. The main reason is that it's a one handed deal. While I've got something in the perfect position I can grab the nailer with one hand and if nothing else just put a couple of nails into it to keep it there while I position or flex the other end into place. Bravo! much easier!

After doing some research I stumbled onto a consensus of praise and worship of this model http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-NT50AE2-1 ... S71CT4NUVA

And so far, I'm in agreement, hasn't jammed once, easy to use, maintenance is a drop of oil in the air intake a day. To top it off, I went to the pawn shop looking for one locally and they had a one generation older model that I got for single crisp 20 dollar bill.

That's a hard deal to beat. From the reviews, they say that this is the last 18 gauge you'll ever buy. Good enough for me!

Any tool that eliminates filling a couple hundred screw head divots has my stamp of approval.

One last note, I had to turn the countersink knob completely down or out which ever way means the softest shoot to keep the heads from going right through the 1/4" arraco plywood.
Confucius' advice to all djs: "a great dj is one who only remixes mediocre music, hot dog and bun need no further thought..."

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7566
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#20 Post by Tom Smit »

Just make sure that your fingers are well out of the way. A co-worker of mine was using his and the brad hit a knot, deflected and went into his finger (which was out of the way).
TomS

User avatar
LiefStevens
Posts: 207
Joined: Thu Sep 23, 2010 10:46 am
Location: Asheville, NC - Authorized Builder
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#21 Post by LiefStevens »

Tom Smit wrote:Just make sure that your fingers are well out of the way. A co-worker of mine was using his and the brad hit a knot, deflected and went into his finger (which was out of the way).
No kidding! I was building an entertainment system last week and shot a brad that curved and came out right next to where I shot it in. Almost got my finger but I got lucky.

el_ingeniero
Posts: 931
Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2010 11:46 pm
Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#22 Post by el_ingeniero »

LiefStevens wrote:
Tom Smit wrote:Just make sure that your fingers are well out of the way. A co-worker of mine was using his and the brad hit a knot, deflected and went into his finger (which was out of the way).
No kidding! I was building an entertainment system last week and shot a brad that curved and came out right next to where I shot it in. Almost got my finger but I got lucky.
Had one go into my thumb the other day. Went all the way to the bone. Yanked it out eazy enough and my tetanus shots are up to date, so no worries. But I started wearing eye protection after that.

User avatar
Rune Bivrin
Posts: 521
Joined: Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:42 pm
Location: Stockholm, Sweden

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#23 Post by Rune Bivrin »

Brad nailer is the shit, for sure. It holds remarkably well; what it won't do is pull things together. So if you're concerned about the tightness of joints you should really clamp first with a 2x4. Then apply a healthy number of brads. More is better!

I've noticed the tendency to curve when not perpendicular to the surface. However, the nails are rectangular in cross-section so they are far more likely to bend one way than the other. If you factor that in when nailing you can definitely reduce the risk of crooked nails.
In build order:
O12 with no tweeter.
3 x WedgeHorns.
2 x Jack 10 without tweeters.
2 x DR250.
2 x 16" T39
1 x Tuba 24
2 x SLA Pro (sort of...)

User avatar
Dave Non-Zero
Posts: 1939
Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 4:59 am
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#24 Post by Dave Non-Zero »

Good timing with this thread. I've just got my hands on my first compressor. Free to a good home and a decent size. Now to get some tools to go with it, and a brad nailer is right up there. The only thing I've been concerned with is the pulling tight thing. I'll have to make sure Incan clamp the panels properly, since I've always used th escrews to pull them together.
-1 for thought terminating cliches.

Built and/or own:
8 x T48 24" 3015LF
6 x DR280
2 x DR250 old style beta10
2 x T36s 20" delta15L
1 x TAT
1 x dual Lab12 30" T60

In Progress:
2 x DR280

User avatar
doncolga
Posts: 1967
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2010 3:01 pm
Location: Statesboro, GA
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#25 Post by doncolga »

My brad nailer is out on delivery right now, but I'm out of town for training for my work, but I should be able to give it a whirl this Friday hopefully. I'm really hoping it will speed up the build process.

Just to see if I did this right before...fine time to be asking...

When I attached the first panel on the side of the T30, clearly the only way you can fasten is through the side and into the side of the panel...so I got underneath the table to screw it in from that the bottom. Subsequent panels were attached vertically to the other panels of course, but I still screwed the bottoms of the panels from underneath as well...that was that way that should have been done correct?
Donny Collins
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW

User avatar
Tom Smit
Posts: 7566
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 1:24 pm
Location: Sarnia, Ont. Canada

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#26 Post by Tom Smit »

doncolga wrote:but I still screwed the bottoms of the panels from underneath as well...that was that way that should have been done correct?
Correct.
TomS

User avatar
doncolga
Posts: 1967
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2010 3:01 pm
Location: Statesboro, GA
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#27 Post by doncolga »

Donny Collins
Built:
Two 18" Tuba 30's 3012 LF
Two 26" Tuba 30's Lab 12
Two OmniTop 12's DL 2512 (Melded Array)
Presonus Studio One DAW
Harrison Consoles MixBus 32C DAW

UROK

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#28 Post by UROK »

Nice! :clap:

User avatar
David Homer
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:57 am
Location: Hickory Corners, MI
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#29 Post by David Homer »

My brad nailer comes from Harbor Freight.. Works flawlessly...

User avatar
LelandCrooks
Posts: 7242
Joined: Thu May 04, 2006 9:36 am
Location: Midwest/Kansas/Speaker Nirvana
Contact:

Re: Using a Brad Nailer vs. Screws

#30 Post by LelandCrooks »

David Homer wrote:My brad nailer comes from Harbor Freight.. Works flawlessly...
Until it doesn't. Then you buy another. As much as you build when it dies go buy a name brand. Voice of experience. I use Senco and Porter Cable.
If it's too loud, you're even older than me! Like me.
http://www.speakerhardware.com

Post Reply