WH10 x Four

[DJPhatman]

4 Horns, now on to trimming the mouth, gonna take some time, reread the plans, and see if I can get my small 10" table saw to trim the horns to fit the cabinet, gonna take some thinking here...hmmm.

Lastcat

Great build! Love the WH10 porn!

Here's my suggestion: Dry fit the horns into their mating box. Mark them both so they stay together at assembly time. With the horn fitted snuggly into the outer boc, draw a line all the way around the perimeter of the horn, using the mouth of the box as your guide. This should get you very close.

[Lastcat]

Here's my suggestion: Dry fit the horns into their mating box. Mark them both so they stay together at assembly time. With the horn fitted snuggly into the outer boc, draw a line all the way around the perimeter of the horn, using the mouth of the box as your guide. This should get you very close.

I could dry fit the horn, using Permacel. Fit the Horn to the cabinet, draw a line around the horn. Then disassemble the horn, cut the horn with the proper angle, using the parts as patterns for the next cabinets. Then assemble the horn. Then just offset the horn about 1/2" from the front of the mouth, which would give a good edge for a speaker grill. Also, what was cut off the mouth of the horn, can be added inside the cabinet, to reinforce for the screws for the grill, and act as a stop for the horn to glue up against. Yes? Wow, how many ways do you think, one can "shake and bake" this thing?

[Lastcat]

Finally cut the horn to fit each cabinet. Used a sheet of plywood on my table saw, worked good. Just sneak up on the each cut, to fit the cabinet. One thing to do, is clean out any PL that is in each corner, so the Horn would fit properly. I marked each Horn to each Cabinet, #1, #2, etc...

I didn't glue the Horns in right away. I wanted to foam the inside of the cabinet, and the outside of the horn first, before I PL'ed everything. So, I set the horn and cabinet on my bench, and then cut all 4 braces, but I only attached the braces to the cabinet, and not the horn. That way I could remove the horn, foam things up, then glue in the horn, and lastly, glue up the baffle.


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Here is how I cut the baffles, it's something I saw from Norm Abrams, on the "New Yankee Workshop". I think he was making a table top. I just drilled a 3/8" hole in each baffle, set a 3/8" dowel into a small sheet of plywood, cut an access groove for the blade, and presto!


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Lastcat

[LelandCrooks]

Those look sweet. WH's give me more fits than any cab in the line.

[AntonZ]

EEEK You've built Titans, Tuba's and DR's?

[Lastcat]

Those look sweet. WH's give me more fits than any cab in the line.

Thanks Leland, coming along, getting closer .

[Lastcat]

EEEK You've built Titans, Tuba's and DR's?

Just Two 24" T39's, still working on the WH10's, noTuba's, will be making Four DR200's soon after the WH10's.

[AntonZ]

No, I was surprised when Leland said:

WH's give me more fits than any cab in the line.

Not talking you down mind you, I haven't done wedgehorns and thank you for sharing your progress. I'd like to do a WH10 myself some time.

[Lastcat]

No, I was surprised when Leland said:

WH's give me more fits than any cab in the line.

Not talking you down mind you, I haven't done wedgehorns and thank you for sharing your progress. I'd like to do a WH10 myself some time.

Oh no, I understand. Lots of work in these. Big too . But, when I get outside and on bigger stages, I know I will be prepared. I think if I had to choose, I would say a T39 would be a faster build, and less work, .

[SeisTres]

haven't built dr's, but out of everything i've built, wedges would certainly be right up there as one of the most annoying builds.

[LelandCrooks]

Last time I built some the horns took 3 tries. I kept inverting parts, the whole "mirror image" thing. So, the last pair I had my son build and he whacked them right out.

[Lastcat]

I added the Foam, (Mattress Top Foam from Fred Meyers ). I fit each Horn to each Cabinet, then glued in the braces only to the Cabinet. Then I added foam to the inside of the cabinet and then the horn. Try not to add too much foam to the front of the Cabinet area, about 2" away from the mouth and for the horn about 4" away from the front.

Make sure to dry fit the horn to the cabinet before adding PL. I then glued the Horn to the Cabinet. This is all being done without the Speaker Baffle attached. Added a single #18 brad into each Brace to hold while drying.

For the foam, I used 3M Super 77. Works fast, just spray the foam, then add to the Horn or Cabinet.


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Below, the area to the left, inside the cabinet, is where I will mount the XO.


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For the Baffles, I used the Plastic Pet Screen. Easy to work with. I PL'ed the screen to the Speaker side of the Baffle. Let that dry over night, then added the Throat Fillers. Very easy to work with, just 3/4" Insulation, cut to size, then sand the angle. Cut into pieces, then added to the Baffle. After it all dried, I trimmed the Screen around the Filler. Then just PL the Baffle to the Horn.

I added a few inserts on the Baffle, towards the inside of the cabinet. Its makes it easier to mount the speaker, there is not much room in there. I used Allen Head Bolts for these 2 inserts, then I will use #8 Pan Head 1 1/2" Wood Screws to secure the speaker.


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[Harley]

Nice build!

[Lastcat]

Thanks Harley, these are taking me a bit longer than I expected, lots of work still yet to do

[Lastcat]

Finally got around to some work. Started on the Piezo's. Did some testing. I used an old small portable TV for White Noise, then built one of the jigs that was posted here. Testing In and Out of Phase with a good known Piezo. Found 2 with reversed polarity, 3 with low volume.


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Cutting the Piezo's.


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PVC Cement and gluing.


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Installed over the center of the Small Horn Opening. For what it's worth, someone asked about the Miter, Table and Blade Angles for the Piezo Braces. I left the Blade Angle set as is for either end, but changed the position of each brace, just flipped it along the X axis and changed the table from Pos. to Neg. You will have to experiment. Hope this helps.

The top of the brace's are:
Table 15*
Blade 11*

The bottom of the brace's are:
Table 16*
Blade 16*


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Getting closer, need to burn in the drivers, and get ready for Duratec.